28 inch Cylinder (Rotation) Ideas

[reeftank1]

I would appreciate any advice on how to make a 28-29 inch rotating plate for a cylinder tank that I would like to set up. It is probably crazy but I am considering building a tank that would somehow rotate one revolution in 5-10 minutes. The tank/center rock rotation will pass the flow input thus always a changing flow. I would like to incorporate a Squirt or something that would allow for variation on flow.

Challenges:

1) Weight - Water weight is @ 670 lbs. The "dinner plate" would have to be able to support the load plus hood with undetermined lights. (A hole would need to be built into the center or the plate for overflow, electric, return pipe) I am thinking of something like skateboard wheels with bearings around the edges. I have no metal experince

2) Column - Center column that would hold overflow (huge bulkhead maybe)
Plus internal piping to allow for power to lights (Assuming that I let the
hood rotate.

3) Electric - Some sort of wiring gaget that would allow for turning to transfer the power without turning the wire.

4) Return line that would be plumbed from external sump that could also run up the center.

Pretty much all the pipe, electric would need to be run up through the bulkhead in the center and allow the water to flow around these pipes and down through the bulkhead into a catch tank to the sump.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Would be stressful for the fish

 

[reeftank1]

Would it because of what they see outside the tank that would mess with their equilibrium? The rotation would be extremely slow. Maybe even slower than I guessed. The environment would be in a constant change and I wonder what they would detect. Corals may benefit as well. Similar to the moving MH tracks. Has it ever been done?

 

[DonW]

This is a pretty cool idea and would not be hard at all. May get a little expensive but definatly doable. Skate wheels are not something I'd use. I would use ball bearing for the load and a large nylon centering bearing to keep it in place. The return of course is just an up and over. The electrical just needs to be stationary, no reason for it to turn. The drains can be up and over or a rotating pipe since there is no water pressure. Build the turn table out of two chunks of 3/4 or 1" acrylic and you will have plenty of room for bearings and will be 100% stable. Motor can run by a gear or even a roller but should be simple.

Sounds like a fun project
Don

 

[Scooterman]

This is sorta like the blender idea, build a large prop that would spin the entire water column. LOL

 

[reeftank1]

I have to head out to work but DonW thanks and please keep the ideas coming. Where could I get BB, a centering bearing, and a motor type mechanism. I am pretty clueless to this other than the concept. The drain type would have to be like a stationary overflow box? Could it be engineered to go in the middle with the circular effect forcing the water to the center for overflow? I like the rotating hood but it would be a bit of trouble that i see. Man, I really think this could be cool. Crap, I should have went to engineering school! I need to get figuring this one so that I can revolutionize the hobby! thanks.

 

[DonW]

You could do a big center pipe overflow. Instead of going around in a circle you could rotate it 360 and then reverse the motor to go back the other direction. This would fix the wiring issues. Otherwise you would have to use a brush contactor and that would be problematic with the SW and VERY hi strike voltage.
Its definatly a doable project.

Don

 

[DonW]

I need to get figuring this one so that I can revolutionize the hobby! thanks.

:lol: Its already been done. 5921203 is the patent # but the drawings should give you some ideas?

Don

 

[reeftank1]

Wow,

I guess I am to late. Any ideas where I could get a small motor and a digital timer? That seems to be the biggest problem. I would need to get a wheel type too that would allow a very strong connect and a gear to slow the turn rate down. I have a guy working on acrylic $$. A bowl that I could plumb could be a problem too. I could use sling shot bearings if they are steel. They could roll in a couple tracks between the acrylic. Hmmm. I need to get shopping. Where could I find motors, switches, etc.?

 

[Vicki]

Have you seen this one???

http://www.ecoaqualizer.com/rotating.htm


Vicki

 

[Holygral]

You can use a collector ring to transfer electric. They use them on motorized jib cranes with 360 degree rotation.

 

[balogh03]

No expert on this one, but something to think about....

The space needle rotates something like once every 45mins. and it used to be quicker, but they had to slow it down becuase of sickness.

I dont know if being in water would make it different or not??

Good luck

-augustus

 

[reeftank1]

Yeh, I am considering some sort of mag drive or a geared ring. I am thinking 1 rpm or slower for sure. The return line and hood will probably be stationary. I will have to get a overflow box built that will run from the center to the back of the tank. Sort of a coast to coast that would be very shallow and similar to a lifereef overflow. I bought a cylinder for the center but it is not to appealing as it is 8 inches. I am working on hooking up with holygral to get some sort of bearing system. Then I will have to get a drive, gear, or a wheel deal to mount under the tank plate to make it go. Just a bunch of pipe dreams for the time being. Lots of ideas and don't want to screw it up. I may be able to eliminate powerheads, CL, somehow with inputs from the top.

 

[boozeman]

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/23562-350g-round-custom-build-motorized-tank.html

 

[MC Lighting]

as stated before I would not go with a power transfer ring you are asking for a fire with the salt water enviroment I would do a 359 deg rotation then reverse... I don't see the water as being a problem because it is going to be within the column of water its not liek your trying to tilt it or something and with round walls you have no real force in any one direction. I think its a cool idea that as stated earlier is doiable. I would do a stationary hood as I see no reason to complicate things my making the lights move plus it goes against the idea of change in lighting with rock orientation to the lights etc.