Adding Wood to Raise Canopy 4 Inches

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fkbsar

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Joined
Jul 8, 2004
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18
Location
Indianapolis
I need to raise my canopy about another 4 inches. I wanted to attach another piece of wood to the bottom of the existing canopy instead of building a whole new canopy. How can I attach a piece of wood - would I use braces? I would need to do the sides and also an extension for the front door. TIA
 
Just cut your 4 strips from the same wood as your canopy is made of and install with say 4" strips of 1/4" ply on rhe inside, I would ssand the finish off and glue and clamp the strips on the inside, if you can't do that you can try glueing and screwing them on with stainless screws, I would get them from West marine, their screws ought to be the marine grade ones for being around salt. I would get some of the same wood [probably oak]say 2" wide and mill it down to say 1/4" thick and round the edges slightly and over lay the outside joint so as to cover it up. You can glue it as above again or rent a brad nailer or use small finishing nails with glue. Sand and stain to match and you should be good to go. If your top is oak you can buy trim at Lowes or HD that would probably be close to the outside stuff I suggested above, well keep you from having to mill it or have it done.
 
A picture would really help but assuming its solid wood. I'd just joint the bottom with a router. Glue up some matching wood with TB-2 or gorilla. If you do a good job with the router it will be barely noticeable.
 
Hiya Fran!!! Welcome to RF :D :D :D

If you are not quite familiar w/ what Don means by Jointing, that means that you are going to have to make sure the bottom is perfectly flat and clear of the finish that is currently on it. Once you do that it should be pretty straight forward to add the 4 inches. Maybe it would be easier if you didn't add the 4 " to your door? Is the door you have now just a flat slab, or is it a raised panel type? It would be pretty easy to glue a extra 4" of wood to the bottom of your existing canopy and call it a day. If you can post a picture of your canopy and we will go from there.
 
Will try and get a picture up this evening when I get home. The door is one piece of plain board in the front, is hinged and swings up, so if I add any length to the sides there would be that amount of space needed in the front also. Thanks guys for the advice. I'll post some pictures when I get home.
 
Here is a front picture and a side picture of the canopy.


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Well that looks like it should be a piece of cake. You can get that same wood @ home depot that the front flap is made from. So it shoud just be a matter of cleaning up the bottom to get it ready to glue, and then edge glue on the extra 4 inches. Stain it and call it good :D
 
To edge glue a piece on there you well have to have a router and a really good straight edge so as to make the bottom edge perfectly straight, any variation amd you well have a weak joint without biscuits or a spline. Is the hood solid wood or plywood with a paneling overlay. You cannot edge glue plywood. It looks like yhe canopy sits on cleats or in layman terms strips of wood attached inside the canopy that in turn sits on the tank. When you first posted I didn't think you sounded like you had a bunch of experience or tools and gave you a way of doing it withoout alot of tools. If the canopy sits in cleats as it looks like you can get some 1x4 stock which wellmeasure 3 5/8" and some 1x6 which well measure 5 5/8". Add the 1x4 to the bottom and put the 1x6 on the inside and up from the new bottom say 1" and screw and glue it over the joint of the old and new extended bottom and you well have a strong joint and also a new ledge or cleat to sit on top of the tank. If the outside looks good enough to you leave it or you can overlay like I suggested above with a thin trim strip, either way stain and finish to match. Hope you can understand what I'm trying to say.
 
Also I forgot to add to edge glue a piece you well need several bar clamps to clamp the joint tight while the glue sets. If you don't mind me asking why do you need to raise your canopy, it looks pretty high as is?
 
Fishermann, I am inexperienced. I didn't make the canopy myself, it came with the tank, but I did have to repair it. It was broken into pieces and I had to put the top on and the side panel that you see in the picture was broken so I had to make a new one and drill the fan hole. I just duplicated what I saw. The hood does sit on cleats as you call them. I don't have any real carpentry skills or the tools just the basic screwdrivers and a drill...and a lot of bravery.

The reason I thought about raising the canopy is because I put some halides in last Friday and when I measured from the bottom of the halide (horizontal) to the top of the water I only got about say... 6 inches or so and I thought that it was too close. But will reconsider if everyone thinks that is ok. I couldn't even put a reflector in there because the bracket for that holds the light was just too long and would have basically put the bulb right in the water (little exaggeration on my part). I have the inside of the canopy lined with 2ml mylar in lieu of not having a reflector. I will measure it again tonight to get an accurate measure
 
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Fran Yes you should raise your hood more, Do it the way I suggested above only install the inner 1x6 only say a 1/4" or 3/8" above the new bottom so you well get about 3 1/4" of new height, which well give you a little over 9", which is what My lites at the bottom of the bulb sits above the water. I wouldn,t go any lower than that, cause of splash issues, corrodes your reflecter and gets salt on the bulbs and has to be constantly cleaned. If you wanted more height use a 1x6 to add on the bottom and do the overlay or sistering as is what it is called with a 1x8, either way all you should need well be something to cut the boards to length, a drill to drill some pilot holes with and you can also use as a screw driver, some good polyurathane glue or epoxy, some sand paper to sand the finish off so the glue adheres and to sand before finishing. Make sure to strain and put several coats of say clear polyurathane on so the wood doesn't warp on you from sucking in moisture. Its not very hard to do and won't require a bunch of clamps and precision work and well give you a good strong addition plus a cleat for the canopy to sit on, by the way, as you have probably figured out you well have to remove the old cleat around the inside of the canopy. Good luck.
 
John, do you have any idea what kind of wood the front is made of. From an inexperienced eye (mine of course) it looks like the side is different from the front and I would like to match the front wood if at all possible. Or is it just some polyurethane over the stain that makes it look so smooth.

Thanks everyone for all of your help. Since I have a long weekend I will probably start on Saturday. Will post some pictures when I finish.
 
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Fran the ends look like they are pine, can't tell what is going on with the front. Look at the edge on the end, is the wood solid with tongue and groove joints or is it T&G looking paneling laying over plywood? Another option on your door is to get a piece of 3/4" one side finished smooth plywood[ you can buy 1/2 sheets [length ways] at most HD or Lowes or even better yet at your local lumber yard and they well for a nominal fee cut it to size for you and just put a whole new door on the canopy, won't cost much more and well save a bunch of time and work for you, just put the extensions on the canopy.
 
Ok, guys. Decided not to do the extension work on the hood and decided to just build a new one. The pine laminate was cheap at Home Depot and I had it cut to spec. I started the extension job and really didn't like what I saw. It would have been much cheaper ($20) for just the extension but the wood for a whole new hood was only $40. It gave me a chance to make improvements over the old hood (placement of the fan holes and also making the top of the hood one whole sheet instead of two boards). Also I couldn't match the stain because it was made with "tar and mineral spirits"(?) by the previous owner. So......I'll be posting pictures of the completely new canopy probably sometime this weekend.
 
Well, the job is finally finished. The only thing I didn't consider was that I needed to make the door 3/4" shorter. Will take it off this weekend and take it down to Home Depot and have them cut it down for me. But here are the finished pictures. I used the same hardware so that saved just a smidgeon.

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Thanks for all the encouragement and help. Now....hingeing the door. I didn't want to put the latch back on the front like I had it before. I just used the hinge that lifts the top up but is there a hinge that when I lift the door up I can sort of flip the door onto the top of the canopy? I tried using the toy box hinges to keep the door open for me when I lift it but I think I installed in incorrectly because it just wouldn't stay open.

Also added a picture of the inside of the canopy. I'm using mylar right now. Planning on picking up my reflectors this weekend.
 
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