dj tryrd
dj tryrd
no for right now i am feeding very small chunks of krill. very very very small
anemone wont grow!!!!
- Thread starter dj tryrd
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Hate to say it, but I still think you're best bet is to STOP dosing anything you aren't testing for. Even if you are testing for it, stop dosing anything that you don't have a valid reason to have in your water....such as Iodine. There's been MANY studies done and none have shown a beneficial reason to dose iodine...yet several have shown negative effects on corals from the dosing of iodine.
Need to get those nitrate levels down to as close to 0 as possible. Can you give a link to the information you're reading that states that adding nitrate to NSW is beneficial to corals? I think your nitrate levels of 10 are a negative impact on your RBTA...and without accurate test kits, who's to say your nitrates aren't even higher than that?
Start doing 20-30% water changes every week. Only dose Ca, Alk and Mg...and ONLY once you've tested for those.
Also, once again, you mention testing everything digitally. There's certain things that you can't test for digitally and need quality test kits for...ie...nitrates, phosphates, Ca, Mg and Alk.
You mention "and regular additions of good additives that acurately portray the natural environment of corals (checked the labels myself), all help to keep my nitri/ates in the 1-3 zone." What are these additives? What are you levels of the elements in these additives? Are you testing for every element that's in these additives? Do you trust the label to tell you the exact percentage of every single element in these additives? I would suggest being highly suspect of most "bottled products." Most will not give you enough information about what's actually in them to be trusted.
Need to get those nitrate levels down to as close to 0 as possible. Can you give a link to the information you're reading that states that adding nitrate to NSW is beneficial to corals? I think your nitrate levels of 10 are a negative impact on your RBTA...and without accurate test kits, who's to say your nitrates aren't even higher than that?
Start doing 20-30% water changes every week. Only dose Ca, Alk and Mg...and ONLY once you've tested for those.
Also, once again, you mention testing everything digitally. There's certain things that you can't test for digitally and need quality test kits for...ie...nitrates, phosphates, Ca, Mg and Alk.
You mention "and regular additions of good additives that acurately portray the natural environment of corals (checked the labels myself), all help to keep my nitri/ates in the 1-3 zone." What are these additives? What are you levels of the elements in these additives? Are you testing for every element that's in these additives? Do you trust the label to tell you the exact percentage of every single element in these additives? I would suggest being highly suspect of most "bottled products." Most will not give you enough information about what's actually in them to be trusted.
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dj tryrd
dj tryrd
my nitrate levels arent 10.
they are inbetween 1-2
the additives i use (besides buffers and calcium and iodine) are a coraline stimulant which works tremendously and has no nitrite nitrate or phosphates as some do. the other is reef trace made by seachem. i have recently started adding this (month ago) my corals grow faster and brighter, and my anemone (though still smaller) has pinker nubs than
before.
that is interesting about the iodine, can you tell me the link you found that in because it has sparked my interests. i thought it was required for certain corals (like xenia). by required i dont mean you would have to add but when my levels were a little low i decided to add some.
my studies came from books mostly i dont know if this helps or not but the book lists "hoegh gulberg et al.,1997;kingsley and davies ;1972 (yada yada yada a whole bucnh mre scientist and dates that range from 1969-2004. and the author uses these as proof of the experiments. those are the people who studied the affects on corals.
the boo kisaquarium corals husbandry vol 1` by eric h borneman the book is sound a lot of the info is in depth and bordering my marine bio text as far as terminology and definitions go.
as for the test kits. i recently bought a tank from a guy in my new appartment complex (more for the realy good equipment than anything else) he has a good test kit that i want to pick up but he wasn't answering his phone and today i am stuck . sunday would have been perfect, but ohhhhh welllll.
do you think that seachem is a good product?
i have heard good reviews but you seem more knowledgable than most of the people who post on the florida sites i use more often.
thank you for the info looking forward to more .....tommy
they are inbetween 1-2
the additives i use (besides buffers and calcium and iodine) are a coraline stimulant which works tremendously and has no nitrite nitrate or phosphates as some do. the other is reef trace made by seachem. i have recently started adding this (month ago) my corals grow faster and brighter, and my anemone (though still smaller) has pinker nubs than
before.
that is interesting about the iodine, can you tell me the link you found that in because it has sparked my interests. i thought it was required for certain corals (like xenia). by required i dont mean you would have to add but when my levels were a little low i decided to add some.
my studies came from books mostly i dont know if this helps or not but the book lists "hoegh gulberg et al.,1997;kingsley and davies ;1972 (yada yada yada a whole bucnh mre scientist and dates that range from 1969-2004. and the author uses these as proof of the experiments. those are the people who studied the affects on corals.
the boo kisaquarium corals husbandry vol 1` by eric h borneman the book is sound a lot of the info is in depth and bordering my marine bio text as far as terminology and definitions go.
as for the test kits. i recently bought a tank from a guy in my new appartment complex (more for the realy good equipment than anything else) he has a good test kit that i want to pick up but he wasn't answering his phone and today i am stuck . sunday would have been perfect, but ohhhhh welllll.
do you think that seachem is a good product?
i have heard good reviews but you seem more knowledgable than most of the people who post on the florida sites i use more often.
thank you for the info looking forward to more .....tommy
Oh I'm not all that knowledgable...lol. I don't know about Seachem products as I've never used many of them. I do know that there's been some controversy about some of their products lately. As for test kits, I'd suggest either Elos or Salifert. I'll find the link to the Iodine I read recently. It actually was directly related to Xenia, as well as other corals. It included a very scientific study done with Xenia and showed that it actually wasn't beneficial.
I've got a few links bookmarked on iodine you might find helpful
From the link that maxx provided earlier
A few more links on Iodine
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2003/chem.htm
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/rhf/index.php#17
From the last link
From Aqurium Corals by Eric Borneman p356
IMO iodine is a trace element that can be well enough maintained through regular water changes done with quality salt.
HTH
From the link that maxx provided earlier
A few more links on Iodine
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2003/chem.htm
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/rhf/index.php#17
From the last link
From Aqurium Corals by Eric Borneman p356
IMO iodine is a trace element that can be well enough maintained through regular water changes done with quality salt.
HTH
One of the advancedaquarists links is what I was going to send...lol.
Another thing, you mentioned dosing "coraline stimulants." Some of these, while not having nitrates, phosphates or nitrites, are known to cause problems with accumulated metals over time. One of these that's notorious for eventually causing problems is Purple Up.
Another thing, you mentioned dosing "coraline stimulants." Some of these, while not having nitrates, phosphates or nitrites, are known to cause problems with accumulated metals over time. One of these that's notorious for eventually causing problems is Purple Up.
I may have missed something, but could you post more information about your tank?
size?
what actually is your current lighting?
inhabitants?
It may very well be that you are not providing a suitable environment for your bubbletip (by the way - is it directly from a wild-collected sample, or has it been tank-raised for generations?). Not all animals, even of the same species, are equally adaptable.
You mention that you have xenia. I do not believe that an environment optimized for xenia is ideal for a bubbletip anemone. I have not seen photos of the species together in the wild.
One of the problems with a "mixed-garden" tank is that the environment is not optimized for any of the inhabitants.
Are you keeping a log book of your test results so that you can see trends over time?
size?
what actually is your current lighting?
inhabitants?
It may very well be that you are not providing a suitable environment for your bubbletip (by the way - is it directly from a wild-collected sample, or has it been tank-raised for generations?). Not all animals, even of the same species, are equally adaptable.
You mention that you have xenia. I do not believe that an environment optimized for xenia is ideal for a bubbletip anemone. I have not seen photos of the species together in the wild.
One of the problems with a "mixed-garden" tank is that the environment is not optimized for any of the inhabitants.
Are you keeping a log book of your test results so that you can see trends over time?
DJ ... Please see your PM box and respond to my PM if you will. Thanks
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
my tank is oddly set up.......in a good way.
on the right side directly under the metal halide (broke 2-3 days ago and i will bring it to an electricain some time this week) is were my anemone is. on the other side of mu tank is were my very small xenia (which pulses impresively considering it melted away after my (taken care of) urchin knocked it ontop of itself were i couldn't find it. my green stars my miscelaneus rely tall but small disced zoos (used to think that it was a light problem, found out it wasn't the species is just naturaly bland brown and tall) and my single florida caulerpa.
the metal halide was 150 watt.
my other inhabitants are a pair of mated (mating right now) true percula clown fish, and a yellow watchman goby.
the anemone i got from some one who had moved . it alkso came with the clowns.
yes i do keep a log book, that is how i basicaly know when to add calcium and buffer ( i still test but it usualy comes out to be just as the pattern suggests) pretty cool how it can reach a point were it can be pattern regulated.
the coraline stimulant i use is safe ( i heard about purple up disgusting product). brand name is florida aqua farms ink. (and they are' dedicated to great products and service')
interesting links good chemistry article. just goes to show that you learn something new everyday
i will get and hook up the stronger filter when the idiot answers his phone, i have his light anyway
on the right side directly under the metal halide (broke 2-3 days ago and i will bring it to an electricain some time this week) is were my anemone is. on the other side of mu tank is were my very small xenia (which pulses impresively considering it melted away after my (taken care of) urchin knocked it ontop of itself were i couldn't find it. my green stars my miscelaneus rely tall but small disced zoos (used to think that it was a light problem, found out it wasn't the species is just naturaly bland brown and tall) and my single florida caulerpa.
the metal halide was 150 watt.
my other inhabitants are a pair of mated (mating right now) true percula clown fish, and a yellow watchman goby.
the anemone i got from some one who had moved . it alkso came with the clowns.
yes i do keep a log book, that is how i basicaly know when to add calcium and buffer ( i still test but it usualy comes out to be just as the pattern suggests) pretty cool how it can reach a point were it can be pattern regulated.
the coraline stimulant i use is safe ( i heard about purple up disgusting product). brand name is florida aqua farms ink. (and they are' dedicated to great products and service')
interesting links good chemistry article. just goes to show that you learn something new everyday
i will get and hook up the stronger filter when the idiot answers his phone, i have his light anyway
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
that was abit rash of me.........i meant to say the person who neveranswers his phone and leaves messages at 2 in the morning, that guy.
So total tank inhabitants are a pair of percula clowns, a watchman gobie, xenia, green star polyps, zoos, florida caulerpa, an urchin and the problem anemone. Correct?
Not exactly sure why you need to be dosing calcium and buffer, as the only thing that would be consuming these is corraline algae. And they wouldn't be consuming much. So water changes should cover that.
What size tank?
Looks like good test-kit results are the next bit of missing information.
Not exactly sure why you need to be dosing calcium and buffer, as the only thing that would be consuming these is corraline algae. And they wouldn't be consuming much. So water changes should cover that.
What size tank?
Looks like good test-kit results are the next bit of missing information.
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
no the urchin was given back to the lfs for killing my xenia, which i was happy to see returned. i have a lot of corraline algea, but my corals and anemone also use calcium, as well as some halimeda i have. i only add when i start getting around the 390 400 area, i try to keep it stable.
the test results that i have listed in the begining aregood, but a little old, week maybe. the problem is i am waiting for theguy i want to buy a new tan k with test kit and a whole bunch of stuff, including better filter, to answer his phone and call me back.
the tank is a 29 gallon display tank, but then i have a hang on refugium, a hang on refugium that i have devoted to sponges, and yet another 10 gallon refuium that i have on a shelf next to the main tank, in it i employ red mangroves.
all in all i am running about a 45 gallon set up with other filters and potein skimmer, etc.
the tank is small but the water parameters are sound. i only took the anemone because it was either me or his neighbor who kept file fish.......which we thought was an unescasary risk. the anemone was doing great at first, better than when it was in his tank. (in his tank it had a pure white stalk and very small tentacles. (almost like mine is now)) i am so confused it was doing great healthy now...............
it is eating small things, and i will post the water parameters up when i get the test kits.
the test results that i have listed in the begining aregood, but a little old, week maybe. the problem is i am waiting for theguy i want to buy a new tan k with test kit and a whole bunch of stuff, including better filter, to answer his phone and call me back.
the tank is a 29 gallon display tank, but then i have a hang on refugium, a hang on refugium that i have devoted to sponges, and yet another 10 gallon refuium that i have on a shelf next to the main tank, in it i employ red mangroves.
all in all i am running about a 45 gallon set up with other filters and potein skimmer, etc.
the tank is small but the water parameters are sound. i only took the anemone because it was either me or his neighbor who kept file fish.......which we thought was an unescasary risk. the anemone was doing great at first, better than when it was in his tank. (in his tank it had a pure white stalk and very small tentacles. (almost like mine is now)) i am so confused it was doing great healthy now...............
it is eating small things, and i will post the water parameters up when i get the test kits.
Your halimeda is consuming Calcium, but your soft corals and anemone really aren't consuming any.
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
all i know is that once a week i would have to add 3 cap fulls of my liquid calcium, and that was even before i had my halimeda .
but dont anemones cnsume calcium??? isn't it beneficial for an anemone to have a stable calcium level???
if my calcium is low shouldn't i add the additive???
because if i stop adding the additive all together my calcium becomes low. (that was before i got my anemone that i found this out ther fore before i got my halimeda)
but dont anemones cnsume calcium??? isn't it beneficial for an anemone to have a stable calcium level???
if my calcium is low shouldn't i add the additive???
because if i stop adding the additive all together my calcium becomes low. (that was before i got my anemone that i found this out ther fore before i got my halimeda)
Adding calcium all at once is not a good idea, as it will shift your water parameters. what calcium additive are you using?
Anemones don't have a skeleton, so calcium consumption will be negligable (with respect to the anemone).
A calcium level of 390 to 400 may not be low, depending upon your alkalinity and magnesium.
Looking forward to seeing your test results from salifert kits.
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2003
- Messages
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Tommy,
Hard corals, clams, and snails use calcium to build their skeletons or shells. Anemones have no calcareous parts so dont need calcium in any way shape or form.
This is an entertaining and rewarding hobby to be in, but you really need to know what you're doing and what your animals/critters need. You need to read much much more on what is involved in this, and what is required for keeping the animals in your care. Its not enough for them to survive, they should thrive....
For starters, click on the link in my signature about anemones. Read all of those articles. Then go get some books from either the library or your local book store.
Start with The Conscientious Marine Aquarist.
Later if you want something more in depth go to:
The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology, Vol. 3 .
I understand the desire to keep a beautiful aquarium...but you need to know what you're getting into, and currently you're trying to keep animals you dont have the experiance or knowledge for.
Nick
Hard corals, clams, and snails use calcium to build their skeletons or shells. Anemones have no calcareous parts so dont need calcium in any way shape or form.
This is an entertaining and rewarding hobby to be in, but you really need to know what you're doing and what your animals/critters need. You need to read much much more on what is involved in this, and what is required for keeping the animals in your care. Its not enough for them to survive, they should thrive....
For starters, click on the link in my signature about anemones. Read all of those articles. Then go get some books from either the library or your local book store.
Start with The Conscientious Marine Aquarist.
Later if you want something more in depth go to:
The Reef Aquarium: Science, Art, and Technology, Vol. 3 .
I understand the desire to keep a beautiful aquarium...but you need to know what you're getting into, and currently you're trying to keep animals you dont have the experiance or knowledge for.
Nick
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
while 390 to 400 isn't low i would rather fix i before it gets low.
saliferts.......i will look into it...though i will probably have to wait till i go back to wear i used to live because the only stuff my current guy tests with is the dip sticks.
so could an anemone , theoreticly, survive in 100 or 200 calcium levels?
i add natureef for both calcium and my iodine (which i have stopped using)
how should i best get rid of my iodine?
before i do if my iodine levels test low should i add iodine?
i started adding it when my levels started getting low.
saliferts.......i will look into it...though i will probably have to wait till i go back to wear i used to live because the only stuff my current guy tests with is the dip sticks.
so could an anemone , theoreticly, survive in 100 or 200 calcium levels?
i add natureef for both calcium and my iodine (which i have stopped using)
how should i best get rid of my iodine?
before i do if my iodine levels test low should i add iodine?
i started adding it when my levels started getting low.
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
nick i have read the concientus marine aquarist
as well asaquarium corals selection husbandry and natural history
the new marine aquarium
the marine aquarium encyclopedia.
a pocket guide to marine inverts and marine fishes
marine biology by peter castro
as well as many others i cant think of off the top of my head.
you see nick i have a horrendous memory problem when it comes to terms.
i sound like a complete moron (and i very well may be) but i do know more than what is portrayed in what i write on this blog. as for the anemone
and when you said that they dont need it any way shape or form, that isn't true.
all corals, even those who dont buid a skeleton can benefit from stable calcium levels. if you take aptasia and put it in a saltwater mixture with little calcium than it will not ' thrive' as you said.
as for the experience and knowledge for, would it have been better of me to allow the anemone into a tank with file fish???
the anemone started out in bad condition. (like it is now) the tasseled file fish would have torn it to shreds) the pet stores wouldn't take it near death because it meant they were running the risk of it melting on them and killing their other inhabitants (their money source)
and were i live (off of the atlantic) clownfish hosting anemones like bta's arent native, how irresponsible would it have been if i had let it go? i honestly had no where else to turn, i thought of putting it up for adoption, but those who had the right set up and were able to take it were either too worried about it melting or told me that i was better off throwig it out in that state because of the risk it ran.
i looked for other ways out, unfortunately their were non forthcoming. then when it started getting better obviusly i was doing something right.
then the cursed not so salt water incident occured and it hasn't recovered.
so dont try and make me feel guilty like i just got one for the heck of it. if it were up to me almost no one would have an anemone because they would all have to be aquacultured. i dont particularly like the idea of anemones in the aquarium but i dislike the idea of throwing a live animal out in the sun because it might not survive. that would be like drowning a baby because it has cancer. ( doesn't have to be a baby but you get my drift.
i'm just trying to do right by this anemone.....tahts all
as well asaquarium corals selection husbandry and natural history
the new marine aquarium
the marine aquarium encyclopedia.
a pocket guide to marine inverts and marine fishes
marine biology by peter castro
as well as many others i cant think of off the top of my head.
you see nick i have a horrendous memory problem when it comes to terms.
i sound like a complete moron (and i very well may be) but i do know more than what is portrayed in what i write on this blog. as for the anemone
and when you said that they dont need it any way shape or form, that isn't true.
all corals, even those who dont buid a skeleton can benefit from stable calcium levels. if you take aptasia and put it in a saltwater mixture with little calcium than it will not ' thrive' as you said.
as for the experience and knowledge for, would it have been better of me to allow the anemone into a tank with file fish???
the anemone started out in bad condition. (like it is now) the tasseled file fish would have torn it to shreds) the pet stores wouldn't take it near death because it meant they were running the risk of it melting on them and killing their other inhabitants (their money source)
and were i live (off of the atlantic) clownfish hosting anemones like bta's arent native, how irresponsible would it have been if i had let it go? i honestly had no where else to turn, i thought of putting it up for adoption, but those who had the right set up and were able to take it were either too worried about it melting or told me that i was better off throwig it out in that state because of the risk it ran.
i looked for other ways out, unfortunately their were non forthcoming. then when it started getting better obviusly i was doing something right.
then the cursed not so salt water incident occured and it hasn't recovered.
so dont try and make me feel guilty like i just got one for the heck of it. if it were up to me almost no one would have an anemone because they would all have to be aquacultured. i dont particularly like the idea of anemones in the aquarium but i dislike the idea of throwing a live animal out in the sun because it might not survive. that would be like drowning a baby because it has cancer. ( doesn't have to be a baby but you get my drift.
i'm just trying to do right by this anemone.....tahts all
dj tryrd
dj tryrd
sorry about my bad writing but i have been writing reports since 4 o clock today, and thats when nosb training was over, it has been a longer trying day on my young mind.
I doubt you can get calcium to drop down to 100 or 200, so rhetorical questions don't really contribute to a solution.
Do you know what natureef calcium is? Calcium hydroxide? Calcium cloride?
One of the organic-basic calcium compounds?
As far as excess iodine, it will gradually dissipate if you don't add any more.
The "dip-strip" tests are not very accurate, and titration-style tests are much more accurate. Let us know when you have values from this style of test to report.
Many of us understand the decisions involved in "saving" an animal, and appreciate the difficulties that ensue when the attempt is made.
Anemones are some of the most difficult animals to keep, and are more sensitive to (lack of) stability in an aquarium. Figuring out what the problem is, and then gradually making changes to optimize the environment for the anemone is important. Accurate test results will help.
