..Another Acro color question

[Bloke]

Kevin,

I've lurked around long enough through the SPS forum that I have a feeling what you're going to say, but here goes anyway... I've put several new pieces of acro into the tank that I bought from a LFS that have been extremely disappointing. As I continue to search for causes for a loss of coloration in my acro, perhaps you might be able to help me arrive at something a little more concrete. On to the story...

I studied the pieces for several days before committing to buying them making sure that the piece continued to appear healthy. The strange thing is that I know that acro are going to go through a period of acclimation into a new system, especially after dealing with various changes in water chemistry, but the odd thing is that I know this LFS VERY well and am positve that they do not have the best water quality nor perform what we might call regular water maintenance. I am positive that my water quality exceeds theirs. But, as that they are one of the few LFS in town, I am forced to capitalize on "show" pieces when they arrive in town.

Let me post a few pics:
Upon first introduction:

After several weeks:

Upon first introduction:

After several weeks:

Now, I check my water quite often, especially since I've recently installed a Ca reactor. These are under 2x250 Reeflux 10k with 4x54w T5 HO actinic lighting. The MH's are run by a magnetic ballast while the T5's are powered by Advance electronic ballast. All bulbs are less than 6 months old.

• 11.0 dKH
• 8.2 pH
• 425 Ca
• 1360 Mg
• 0 NO2
• 0 NH3

I run an ASM G1 skimmer and change about 10% of the water each month. As far as flow, there are two maxi-mods in the tank giving round 3500gph. They are aimed at each other where the flow collides creating chaotic flow show by the surface tension, sand displacement, and polyp movement. This is a 90g tank with a 45g sump. I run an Ocean Runner for a return pump and an 18w UV. The one thing I do not run is a PhosBan reactor, but since that was the suggestion in other threads, it's already on order. I do run carbon and phosban through in a filter bag, but since water will take the path of least resistance, I know that is quite ineffective.

Well, I am sure that there is more information that I could include, but I can't think of anything right now. After looking at the pics, you can imagine my frustration. I am at a loss and do not know if I should just ride it out and hope they return or sell them and buy something else. Naturally, I do not want to buy something else and watch it change on me if it's something I can fix.

Any ideas?

 

[ronj]

i'm not Kevin, but i have a few questions...did you acclimate them to your lighting??? do the polyps come out at night??

 

[JFK_Jr]

Do you know if it's a wild colony?

I had similar experiences with wild colonies... that's why I stay away from them now.

I've had a lot more success with maricultured colonies and aquacultured frags.

 

[Bloke]

As far as light acclimation, the LFS kept then under 2x250 14k bulbs. I didn't feel I needed to acclimate them to my lighting since the lighting was comparable. I know the Kelvin rating was different, but with the T5 actinics, there shouldn't be much variance, I wouldn't think.

As far as wild colonies, I do not know, but I have also kept ORA and other aqua-cultured colonies with less trouble than these so that may be an easy answer. I am not certain. I can ask the LFS if you think they might know.

 

[kevinpo]

Hello,
First of let me say you have a couple of very nice corals there and they do not appear to have anything wrong with them (although they may not meet your expectations in regards to color).

Several weeks is not very long to get Acropora corals to change color especially sensitive ones like Acropora humilis. I think the coloration change in this case is due to lighting spectrum and intensity changes from one tank to another. From the picture it appears that the corals have been subjected to higher light intensity in your tank and are making the adjustment by becoming lighter. You can leave them alone for 6 months or so and see how they do or move them to a lower light location. Sometimes when you move them to lower light they will turn brown for a couple of months before coloring up very nicely.

HTH,
Kevin

 

[Bloke]

Well, at this point I do not have another low light location to move them too. Not even lower in the tank since there is nowhere for them to go. It's good to hear from you that they are otherwise healthy, but just trying to deal with the lighting issues.

6 months, huh? WOW - well, if there is a liklihood that they will return to a more pleasing color, then I can hold out. I was afraid that their color was gone forever.

 

[kevinpo]

As far as light acclimation, the LFS kept then under 2x250 14k bulbs. I didn't feel I needed to acclimate them to my lighting since the lighting was comparable.

Here is some data I pulled from Sanjay's site.
Hamilton 14,000K 250W bulb with M58 ballast listing 53 PPFD.
Reeflux 10,000K 250W bulb with M58 ballast listing 119 PPFD.

The second bulb has double the output of the first so the bulbs are comparable to some 150W verses some 400W bulbs. Enough of a difference to kill many Acropora corals without using proper acclimation techniques.

I don't know the ballast or bulb type of your LFS I just picked random common ones from Sanjay's data. Something else to consider is if your LFS is lacking on their maintenance routine then water clarity and bulb age could further reduce the bulb output by another 15-30%.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[kevinpo]

Check out the two spectral plots of these bulbs.

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.... 250W 14000K SE 1&x4=Magnetek 250W (M58)&x5=N

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.... 250W 10000K SE 2&x4=Magnetek 250W (M58)&x5=N

The first one is the Hamilton and the second is the Reeflux. They produce such different light that along with the difference in intensity the coral color is very likely to change. Even though I picked a random bulb you get the idea how different bulbs of the same wattage can vary greatly. The spectral output of the same bulb fired by a different ballast will also change along with the intensity.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[kevinpo]

It was much better when we just had the Iwasaki, Ushio, and Radium bulbs to choose from (Just kidding :lol: )

Cheers,
Kevin

 

[Bloke]

...so it's practically impossible to avoid then unless you stock the same lighting/system where you first spot a piece of acro?

I now the LFS's Hamilton 14k bulbs were brand new. Mine are older than theirs, but again, less than 6 months old. No other corals in my tank have ever responded the way these two have. I understand that as acro they are more sensitive - but knowing the lighting that I am stocking, are you suggesting that this may be the new status quo?

Shane

 

[kevinpo]

...so it's practically impossible to avoid then unless you stock the same lighting/system where you first spot a piece of acro?

......Even worse than that you may have to place it at the same distance and angle to the bulb also.

but knowing the lighting that I am stocking, are you suggesting that this may be the new status quo?

Yes but maybe only temporary. Many of the high light corals are found over a wide range of water depth and so are very adaptable to different lighting intensities. This can result in the coral collecting and expelling zooxanthellae, changing pigments, and adapting for up to six months. For the first coral (A. humilis) I would expect it to show more blue under your lighting over time than it had when you first got it.
There is also the possibility that it will become some new and very nice color over time.

For the keepers of the fuzzy sticks this is truly a hobby for the patient.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[Bloke]

Well, here's to the fuzzy sticks! May they color up and never cease to amaze! Cheers!

 

[kevinpo]

Shane,
Please be sure to document the color change for both yourself and us here too. I'm fairly sure they will both turn ito sweet pieces.

Cheers,
Kevin