Any ideas for a dcent DIY Skimmer

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My point is that there is basis fore not using an pinwheel pump on a skimmer because it is four or five tall.
I dont see how that pertains unless you are filling the skimmer with water. On mine the water level was in the box, so thier was only 18 inches of water above the venturi's. If you are using the whole skimmer as a mixing chamber then thier would be a pressure on it for sure. For me though the tube is all foam.

Mike- Which venturi were you using again? Did you measure a difference in air input when you changed between 6" and 2' of water in your skimmer?

I used 1 inch mazzie's. Thier was no difference that I noticed in bubble making on either of the two style pumps if I raise the water level in the tube. The OR's had a 1/2 vent tube that I put a valve on. for them I could open them about 25% before the pump would stop running. The other pumps I switched to was a mag 12, I would be able to open them about 50% before they crapped out. Both pumps created the same sized bubbles but the mags put out about twice as much bubbles.

Mike
 
Zephrant said:
Okay- I can agree there. However I'm not convinced that the venturi on a needle wheel has a high enough performance to work when buried under 4' of water.

I've read that one manufacturer moved their Eheim pumps up higher on the large skimmers specifically due to the poor air draw when they were low. I've done my own testing and seen the same effect.

I agree that it would not be very noticeable when running a good venturi on a larger (non needle-wheel) pump.

Mike- Which venturi were you using again? Did you measure a difference in air input when you changed between 6" and 2' of water in your skimmer?

Zeph

My Sedra puts out plenty of air at 3', I have to cut it back.

Eheim is a poor pressure pump are very low head and poor selection to use in a skimmer to produce foam.The highest head they produce is 12'. The Mag 12 is a little better with 15 ft. of head, but it would be a few feet less with a pinwheel impellor. A Mag 18 would be a better selection, produces 20' of head with a std impellor.

The Sedra 900 puts out 17' with the pinwheel and nearly 20 ft with a straight impeller. Sedra produce the most pressure for for the buck in the smaller mag drives. If you get into some of the Iwaki or Gen X you get more head but you are also using a lot more power and dissipating a lot more heat into the water.

If your pump can't develop the pressure, the venturi won't perform. Venturi need velocity to pull the vacuum and the air in and you only get it with a pressure pump. A lot of venturi's are designed to perform at 15 to 20 psig.....35' to 45' of head, including the little Mazzei's.

When people design their own skimmers the biggest mistake is pump selection. You can select a pump that pumps 50 gpm but it may not develop the pressure to drive a Mazzei venturi or a Beckett. And if you simply over size and select a big pump like a Velocity Titanium you boil the water it puts so much heat into the water.

I'd say one of the reasons ER has a good name is they match the pump with the skimmer and don't let the customer purchase his own pump. I'd bet most of the problem calls skimmer mfg.s get are because the customer bought his own pump and selected the wrong one. Most reefers look into a catalog and pick a pump based on flow rate. All skimmer builders would be smart to insist on supply the proper pump with their skimmer. You notice ER uses Sedra's.

I'll hopefully have a few picture up on my site this weekend of my new skimmer in operation with the Sedra 900 pinwheel, I'll running it to performance and leak test. I'll take picture while on my high tech test bench....the kitchen sink. :p
 
Wel well well........now thats great info guys......lots of explainations, Am not an engineer like some of you fellas but I know that even the best needle wheel cant compete with a standard impeller for creating the flow needed to activate a venturi device....these needle wheel impellers are designed tho chop the air up more than circulate it, so any pulling power to offset the height of water would be seriously compromised i would imagine.

The info from ldrhawke(john) was interesting but still leaves me guessing at what best to do.......ah well .....only one way to find out....

A lot of venturi's are designed to perform at 15 to 20 psig.....35' to 45' of head was interesting.....most of our pumps cant approach that sort of pressure.....mind you the new downdraft skimmers use very powerful high pressure pumps to inject water...what sort of head would they produce do you reckon ldrhawke(john).....
 
coolcol said:
Wel well well........now thats great info guys......lots of explainations, Am not an engineer like some of you fellas but I know that even the best needle wheel cant compete with a standard impeller for creating the flow needed to activate a venturi device....these needle wheel impellers are designed tho chop the air up more than circulate it, so any pulling power to offset the height of water would be seriously compromised i would imagine.

The info from ldrhawke(john) was interesting but still leaves me guessing at what best to do.......ah well .....only one way to find out....

A lot of venturi's are designed to perform at 15 to 20 psig.....35' to 45' of head was interesting.....most of our pumps cant approach that sort of pressure.....mind you the new downdraft skimmers use very powerful high pressure pumps to inject water...what sort of head would they produce do you reckon ldrhawke(john).....

Often the problem is trying to use on pump for two different purposes with two totally different needs, 1) flow rate and 2)fine bubbles. It can be done but it is balancing act if you try to do it with one device. Selecting a single pump to make fine bubbles and also supply a uniform flow rate can be a tricky.

Using a single device for both flow( thru the skimmer) and pressure ( making bubbles) can complicate balancing and tuning a skimmer. If you try to increase the pressure to make fine bubbles, you also increase the flow thru and levels skimmer. If you decrease the flow you may not be making fine bubbles.

The insump ER skimmer solves the flow problem by not having any back pressure into the sump to restrict the flow, and use the single little pinwheel for both flow and aeration. The flow is unimpeded.

When you put the same skimmer outside the sump, you need to configure return piping which can be different for everyone, so it has no restriction. This can become a problem because a slight increase in restriction to flow can dramatically effect flow and level in the skimmer. An outside the sump skimmer is easier to set up using two independent devices, one for bubbles and one for flow. It is much easier to optimize perfomance with two independent devices for flow and bubbles.

I am running leak and bench tests on my skimmer as I write this. I initally had it set up with two Sedra 900 pumps; one pin wheel for bubbles and one for flow (with an mazzei injector attached). While testing I found out I don't need, or even want, the additional bubbles from the mazzei. The Sedra 900 pinwheel air flow has to be restricted way down or it produces too much foam. When I ran it with both ejectors, the foam virtaully forced the collection cup cap off the top. I have to set a couple of pound weight on the cap to keep it in place when running the air wide open on the Sedra 900 pinwheel or it will blow foam all over the kitchen.

I no longer have a need for a high pressure pump feeding or the mazzei injector. I changed to smaller Sedra for flow that only pulls less than 20 watts to feed 4 to 5 gpm. It also saved energy and reduced a lot of heat energy being dumped into the water I had with the additional Sedra 900. I could do that easily if the system was run with a single pump. After recirculating for hours into the small test sump I see a very little temperature rise.

If you select and skimmer that uses a single pump for both make sure you use the exact pump recommended by the mfg. that he has tested, and make sure if it is an out side skimmer the return flow is not restricted in anyway. It should be virtually gravity feed into the sump.
 
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dwall174 nice setup and I like the the plumbing you have done, well thought out for sure and effective. If you take the water off the bottom of the skimmer you should be fine for releasing bubbles . Mine comes off the bottom and I dont see any bubbles coming out.

nicely done

Mike
 
mojoreef said:
dwall174 nice setup and I like the the plumbing you have done, well thought out for sure and effective.
Thanks Mike! :)
Not shown in the pic’s or drawing are valves to close off & bypass the pre-filter tank or the sump! This way the system can stay running & I can clean either the sump or pre-filter tank.
The fun one was figuring out my water change system!
To do a water change I fill the 20gal storage tank up with RO/DI water. Once the storage tank is full I close off the main valve #1 , then mix my salt with the RO/DI water. I have a small powerhead & heater in the storage tank so after the newly mixed salt has aerated & heated overnight & I have checked that it matches my tanks water it’s ready to be transferred to the sump. Now this is the hard part LOL. I open up valve 5 which drains the sump to 3” (which is still enough to keep my pumps & heater running) after the sump has drained I close valve 5! Then open valves 1 & 3 which transfers the new water to the sump thanks to good old gravity. This just happens to be my sumps running level also! Then I close valve #3, refill the storage tank with RO/DI water & I’m all set for my top-off.

Water Change Valves

Valve 1 Main valve, Controls water to my sumps float valve, & water change valve (valve #3)
Valve 2 Storage tank drain, Used to drain the storage/water change tank for cleaning.
Valve 3 Water change, Used along with main valve to drain new water from storage tank into the sump.
Valve 4 Sump overflow, Runs to floor drain incase of sump overflow
Valve 5 Sump drain, Drains sump to its minimum operating level of 3”
 
Cool I like that kind of stuff, but.... if it were to be really cool it would all be automated, lol. I almost went for it but dont do WC's.

Mike
 
I finally it got built, tested, running, and installed.

It sure foams and mixes. The overflow is through a pipe that runs down the center of the unit and out the upper section. Also, I modified the std. ER slide tube level control, which is only for in tank skimmers so I can use the slide tune on the external mount. The slide tube is fool proof in setting it up compared to a gate valve.

My modified EurorReef 5-1. I'm please There are a number of photos so I posted it on my mac.com site so I don't take up lot of bandwidth here.

I built so I can slip in airstones to compare. I don't see how they could do much better, it's like whip cream inside the tubes.

http://homepage.mac.com/johnlaurenson/ReefTank/PhotoAlbum38.html

http://homepage.mac.com/johnlaurenson/ReefTank/iMovieTheater39.html

__________________
 
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mojoreef said:
but.... if it were to be really cool it would all be automated, lol.
I actually looked into that! :razz:
I could probably figure out the electronics, But the prices of the actuated ball valves & solenoids with true 100% plastic wetted parts would make it way too expensive. :shock:
 
ldrhawke said:
You mean you need to add salt.........no wonder my fish die. :badgrin:

It doesn't even start to foam until the SG reaches about 1.015.

LOL, ok thats what I thought, just couldn't see making a sink full of salt water, the wife would kill me if I did that :D

Steve
 
the prices of the actuated ball valves & solenoids with true 100% plastic wetted parts would make it way too expensive.
Ahh go with the a sprinkler valve and then use the plastic dip (for tools) to coat the spring.


Mike
 
mojoreef said:
Ahh go with the a sprinkler valve and then use the plastic dip (for tools) to coat the spring. Mike
Hum sounds good Mike! Have you done this before? If so any model or part #s you would recommend! TIA
 
I have not done a valve like that bit I have plastic dipped metal parts for sw before. All sprinkler valves are NO valves, aquactic eco systems have some fancy ones but I would say HD would be the best place to llok.


Mike
 
mojoreef said:
I have not done a valve like that bit I have plastic dipped metal parts for sw before. All sprinkler valves are NO valves, aquactic eco systems have some fancy ones but I would say HD would be the best place to llok.


Mike

The Rainbird 24v inline valves I have are NC and the spring is not exposed to water. Should work fine.

Don
 
Thanks Mike & Don
I will look into that! It sounds a lot simpler than what I was looking at. I was looking into using polypropylene ball valves that I could control by some type of mechanically controlled arm.

These are two valves I was thinking of trying from McMaster-Carr 9771K22 fiberglass-reinforced polypropylene valve or 45695K14 polypropylene elliptic valve.
 
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One thing that a lot of people may over look when evaluating a skimmer performance is the SG of the salt water. A skimmer will make fine bubbles and foam like crazy when pushing slater water with a SG of 1.035. Let the SG drop to 1.032 and the skimmers ability to make and hold fine bubbles for a foam is greatly reduced. The low SG reduces the skimmer performance dramatically.
 

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