Don't side just get a DKH test kit and check the reading on RO water and the reading on regular tap water for your self. If I'm wrong cool.
Are my Anemones Dying?
- Thread starter ReefJeff
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Ok, so I tested the DKH of tap water and got 4. The DKH of RODI water 1. Isn't this like comparing apples and oranges though? I think this because the salt mixes compensate for pure water; moreover, why is it worth putting all the junk that's in tap water into your tank?
ac7av
Bring on the FISH!
All I can say is wow! ReefJeff, I hope you’re still with us and welcome to reef frontiers. Since is sounds like you have a very well established tank and I have no personal knowledge of anemones requirements other then what I’ve read I would say this, anemones can change shape and size over time. Maybe is just nothing or maybe is something. Aside from the size and change of appetite, do they look healthy to you? If not then I would look at what your doing if you have made any changes, even small as some may be, then you should examine them. One of them may be irritating your anemones. Or it could be the clowns, I here they can be tuff on a host when they get large.
BTW DonW is correct on the water thing. Top Water just because your end result works for you it does help to know the correct math behind the final answer. But if it works for you then stick with it.
BTW DonW is correct on the water thing. Top Water just because your end result works for you it does help to know the correct math behind the final answer. But if it works for you then stick with it.
You don't want to use tap water for exactly what you said . The junk in it. Phosphates ect...Salt mixes don't always compensate some mixes do better than others.The key point is if you loose water over time to evaporation and keep toping off with RO water the DKH will drop.If this drops the MG and CA will become unstable meaning you can keep adding supliments but the reading(product in a benificial state) won't stay stable at proper levels. Now for the grand finally the best way to know where you are at is to test the water you make(fresh salt water) just before you add it to the tank. Conclusion is if your not adding a much higher DKH reading your tank water DKH won't go up without buffering w/ DKH buffer. Signs of low DKH are closing polpys in zoos/ off colors and chalice start to show skelitons before they die.
QUOTE=capdippe;563209]Ok, so I tested the DKH of tap water and got 4. The DKH of RODI water 1. Isn't this like comparing apples and oranges though? I think this because the salt mixes compensate for pure water; moreover, why is it worth putting all the junk that's in tap water into your tank?[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=capdippe;563209]Ok, so I tested the DKH of tap water and got 4. The DKH of RODI water 1. Isn't this like comparing apples and oranges though? I think this because the salt mixes compensate for pure water; moreover, why is it worth putting all the junk that's in tap water into your tank?[/QUOTE]
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Inconservatory
Well-known member
If you were to over-fill the tank with RO water, then you'd have a lowered concentration of alk, mag, calc, etc. Since you're only refilling the evaporated water, the mineral content would stay the same.
Top_Water, are you talking about PH, or DKH? Being that RO water would be a PH of 7, I'd understand what you're saying.
ReefJeff - Welcome to RF! Maroons can be pretty tough on anemones sometimes. You'll want to lower those Phosphates to zero by doing water changes or adding some Phosguard. If they start shriveling, I'd be concerned. Is their color staying more or less the same?
Top_Water, are you talking about PH, or DKH? Being that RO water would be a PH of 7, I'd understand what you're saying.
ReefJeff - Welcome to RF! Maroons can be pretty tough on anemones sometimes. You'll want to lower those Phosphates to zero by doing water changes or adding some Phosguard. If they start shriveling, I'd be concerned. Is their color staying more or less the same?
ac7av
Bring on the FISH!
That’s right, maybe Top Water is having a leek in the system and that’s why you get the numbers you do. That explains everything. Maybe we can fix two tanks with one shot. That would be cool.
All I can say is for a person with only 23 posts (about half of which are on this thread), it seems to me you're the one presenting themself as a know it all. Not only that, but argumentative as well. Sorry to be harsh, but I've gotta call it like I see it. The banter back & forth is not helpful to the OP IMHO.
Bottom line is, again IMHO, Alk & Ca are the 2 things you should test for on a regular basis when keeping a reef. Both will get consumed at a rate proportionate to your bioload, type of livestock, etc. It's pointless to think about Alk going down solely due to evap. What does make sense, at least to me, is that you test Alk & Ca on a regular basis (Mg too, but doesn't need to be tested nearly as often) to establish a baseline on how much you reef consumes. The more stable you can keep Alk & Ca, the better off your livestock will be. Personally, I supplement both Alk & Ca on a daily basis. This is after I've done quite a bit of testing and have found the amount I need to supplement to keep my levels at appropriate levels.
I use this reef calculator to help me determine how much I need to supplement: http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chem_calc3.html
I use Randy's DIY recipe to make my Alk, Ca & Mg supplements: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php
There are a ton of articles on the web about this very subject. Here's a good one to start you off with: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
Lastly, good luck with your anemones. They are sensitive animals, and like I said before, the more stable you can keep your reef environment, the healthier they will be.
I really hope this helps you get pointed in the right direction.
Rob
Bottom line is, again IMHO, Alk & Ca are the 2 things you should test for on a regular basis when keeping a reef. Both will get consumed at a rate proportionate to your bioload, type of livestock, etc. It's pointless to think about Alk going down solely due to evap. What does make sense, at least to me, is that you test Alk & Ca on a regular basis (Mg too, but doesn't need to be tested nearly as often) to establish a baseline on how much you reef consumes. The more stable you can keep Alk & Ca, the better off your livestock will be. Personally, I supplement both Alk & Ca on a daily basis. This is after I've done quite a bit of testing and have found the amount I need to supplement to keep my levels at appropriate levels.
I use this reef calculator to help me determine how much I need to supplement: http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chem_calc3.html
I use Randy's DIY recipe to make my Alk, Ca & Mg supplements: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php
There are a ton of articles on the web about this very subject. Here's a good one to start you off with: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
Lastly, good luck with your anemones. They are sensitive animals, and like I said before, the more stable you can keep your reef environment, the healthier they will be.
I really hope this helps you get pointed in the right direction.
Rob
ReefJeff
Well-known member
Wow, thank you guys for all your support and opinions. I am always learning something at this website and this thread is no exception. A lot of controversy as to what to test for and I like it.
Well my anemones have not changed colors only they have shrunk. I am going to take some water samples to my local reef shop and see if they can advise me on the ALK and CA levels. I am also going to look into new bulbs for the T-5 fixture. Any recommendations for 36" bulbs? I see Dr Foster & Smith have a sale on their website this week.
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...ho-fluorescent-lamp-tube/ps/c/3578/3733/13821
Thank you again for all your help.
ReefJeff
Well my anemones have not changed colors only they have shrunk. I am going to take some water samples to my local reef shop and see if they can advise me on the ALK and CA levels. I am also going to look into new bulbs for the T-5 fixture. Any recommendations for 36" bulbs? I see Dr Foster & Smith have a sale on their website this week.
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...ho-fluorescent-lamp-tube/ps/c/3578/3733/13821
Thank you again for all your help.
ReefJeff
Jeff
IMHO, just 2 Daylight T5 is not enough for Anemones in a 50 gallon. I run 2 daylight T5 and 2 x 250 MH on my 125. When I had my 55, I ran 4 T5 daylights and a 250MH. And I have 3 RBTA for 4 years and all are thriving. Also how long has your tank been set up.
IMHO, just 2 Daylight T5 is not enough for Anemones in a 50 gallon. I run 2 daylight T5 and 2 x 250 MH on my 125. When I had my 55, I ran 4 T5 daylights and a 250MH. And I have 3 RBTA for 4 years and all are thriving. Also how long has your tank been set up.
I can't comment on T-5 bulbs since I've never used them. But I have had great results buying bulbs online, including fosterandsmith. Taking water sample to your local reef is a great idea. You might as well ask them to test Mg too while you're there. Then you can get all 3 back in balance.
One more opinion if I may, order Alk and Ca test kits when you order the bulbs. They may seem a bit expensive, but they do last a long time, and it will allow you to get to know your reef a whole lot better. Elos & Salifert are both good brands if you're looking for any recommendations.
Rob
One more opinion if I may, order Alk and Ca test kits when you order the bulbs. They may seem a bit expensive, but they do last a long time, and it will allow you to get to know your reef a whole lot better. Elos & Salifert are both good brands if you're looking for any recommendations.
Rob
DonW
R.I.P.
ReefJeff,
My appologies for derailing your issue, Id rather see you get accurate information rather than chasing ghost. All the info you've given so far with the exception of P is right where it should be. The P is pretty high for a reef and is a sign that something needs to change to get that down. Your animals may or may not be stressed honestly there is no way we or anyone but yourself can make this determination. You didnt mention hard coral so I assume this is mostly a softy tank. 10% water changes on a softy tank with decent salt will keep your parameters in check. They may not be spot on if your using a lower end salt like IO but they will be close enough to be considered healthy. If your tank is consuming Ca, Alk and Mg at a fast rate due to coraline growth these three may be an issue. But as stated no one knows until the test have been completed. Everything is pure speculation. One thing I would suggest when ever you see signs of stress is that you perform some small water changes. Do a few over the course of a few days while you look at other things.
Every tank evaporates water as your very well aware. When water evaporates Sg, Ca, Alk and Mg concentrations increase. If you were to let it go to extremes these levels would rise very high. This is due to the fact that only H2o is evaporating with everthing else left behind thus increasing concentrations. Replacing the evaporated H2o with H2o is just that and will have no affect on water parameters other than bring them back to where they were prior to evaporation.
My question would be what salt are you using? Do you have any tank photos so that we can get a guestimate on your consumption and type of care you should be giving the tank.
Don
My appologies for derailing your issue, Id rather see you get accurate information rather than chasing ghost. All the info you've given so far with the exception of P is right where it should be. The P is pretty high for a reef and is a sign that something needs to change to get that down. Your animals may or may not be stressed honestly there is no way we or anyone but yourself can make this determination. You didnt mention hard coral so I assume this is mostly a softy tank. 10% water changes on a softy tank with decent salt will keep your parameters in check. They may not be spot on if your using a lower end salt like IO but they will be close enough to be considered healthy. If your tank is consuming Ca, Alk and Mg at a fast rate due to coraline growth these three may be an issue. But as stated no one knows until the test have been completed. Everything is pure speculation. One thing I would suggest when ever you see signs of stress is that you perform some small water changes. Do a few over the course of a few days while you look at other things.
Every tank evaporates water as your very well aware. When water evaporates Sg, Ca, Alk and Mg concentrations increase. If you were to let it go to extremes these levels would rise very high. This is due to the fact that only H2o is evaporating with everthing else left behind thus increasing concentrations. Replacing the evaporated H2o with H2o is just that and will have no affect on water parameters other than bring them back to where they were prior to evaporation.
My question would be what salt are you using? Do you have any tank photos so that we can get a guestimate on your consumption and type of care you should be giving the tank.
Don
07FocusST
Well-known member
Nothing wrong with T5's in a 55G. I have 2x 10K, 1x Actinic and 1x Purple colored actinic. (460nM & 420nM). My RBTA is loving life along with my Zoas and a couple SPS's.
jag3534
Well-known member
Go with geiessemans, ati's, aquaticlife, and/or ge bulbs. They have the best par output.
Checkout marineandreef.com, marinedepot.com, and reefgeek.com.
Have you been able to feed the nem's recently? Are they still fluffy and full, or shriveled and flat? What do the mouths look like?
Checkout marineandreef.com, marinedepot.com, and reefgeek.com.
Have you been able to feed the nem's recently? Are they still fluffy and full, or shriveled and flat? What do the mouths look like?
ReefJeff
Well-known member
Hello All,
Thank you all for a wonderful thread conversation. I am trying to upload a photo of my reef. You can see the anemones towards the left. Let me know your thoughts.
Closer Look
Thank you,
ReefJeff
Thank you all for a wonderful thread conversation. I am trying to upload a photo of my reef. You can see the anemones towards the left. Let me know your thoughts.
Closer Look
Thank you,
ReefJeff
jag3534
Well-known member
Is that the sebae above, and the two rbta's together about halfway down? If so, the sebae looks fine from here, but the RBTA's do look rather bleached. Is the photo fairly true to their color? And, what do the mouths look like. Open, gaping, tightly closed, ???
