ATO Auto Topper Contoller

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I dont see a 1/4 on Marine Depot, thats why I am asking. I hate to buy something and find out that it isnt what I needed and go through the RMA process
 
just looked it up and it is 1/4" OD Tubing bought at any home improvement store like home depot or ace hardware.
 
Yeah, I found the 1/4 tube. It seems as it is the standard aquarium air pump tubing. I like 1 stop shopping. I beleive I have about 15 feet of it, so that will work for me!!!
 
the 1/4" is harder then the air tubing,

They make it harder so you can use it as the slip clamp into the valve.
 
Ok, Now I think I got my shopping list completed.

Let me know if I am missing something:

ATO auto topper
Aqua lifter
1 check valve
5 feet of rigid RO 1/4 tubing
10 feet of Standard 1/4 tubing

Am I missing anything to get me started?

Thanks

TNS
 
If you are using the Aqua lifter pump then you don't want to use RO tubing it is bigger and the airline tubing will not slip over it. The aqualifter just uses regular airline tubing like what is used with freshwater bubblers and undergravel filters. I just can't remember the size right now. Any LFS should have it.
 
Also the reason I recommended the JBJ brand is the built in safety setup. It will only run a max of 14 minutes even if the floats are stuck or if they fail. The Autotopoff brand will keep running until you run your storage tank out of water. Also it isn't a good idea to hook straight to a RO unit if the valve sticks you will kill everything in your tank and have a HUGE flood on your hands if you are away for a while.
 
Also the reason I recommended the JBJ brand is the built in safety setup. It will only run a max of 14 minutes even if the floats are stuck or if they fail. The Autotopoff brand will keep running until you run your storage tank out of water. Also it isn't a good idea to hook straight to a RO unit if the valve sticks you will kill everything in your tank and have a HUGE flood on your hands if you are away for a while.

I have had mine set up this way for 10+ years and no issues. I use a double float system so if the water gets too high it will still cut the power as not to over flow the system. I also put a manual valve so it is just about always dripping so I do not flood my tank with kalk.
 
Ok, I will cross off the RO tubing and stick with the standard 1/4 tubing instead. Lucklully I dont have an RO unit. So that will be one less problem for me and my tank.
 
I am glad that your system has worked for 10+years but you only have one safety. Your upper switch if that fails then you are going to have a flood until your fresh water reservoir is empty. I personally like to have more than one safety built in as I don't like flooding houses. But thats just me. Back to TheNobleSavage if I were you I would order a couple of check valves if the pump is strong enough to pump through two of them that would be great if not well then you have a spare.
 
You guys have helped me out tremendously!! I appreciate your experience and assistance!!! I have been in the hobby for about 20 years but then after a 15 year layover due to military and family life, so much has changed!! At the time, the only salt that was available was Marine Environment and Instant Ocean. I had really good luck with marine environment at the time but over time, Reef Crystals came out along with other much better salts. You would be amazed with how salt water tanks were maintained back then for example:

Actinics just came out
Protien Skimmers were just being tested
Cannister filters were the "In" thing
Undergravel Filters were a must
Crushed coral for substrate
No refractometers, had to rely on bobbing hydrometers or swing arms
Metal Halides had only 1 or 2 colors
Metal Halide fixtures were around the 1000.00 USD mark
Never attempt to try a salt tank under 55 gallons
Very few corals available and most died in no time

I can go on and on, if interested I can continue
 
Actually if you read it right I have two floats and two valves

Lower float that will turn the ATO on or off
Upper float in case the lower float sticks and will turn off the system

Two valves
One magnetic, if you lose power it closes. These are designed to close if they fail.

Also a manual that I only crack open to allow a drip into my sump

In short the magnetic valve is just about always open and the manual valve allows it to drip. At my drip rate for it to over flow my sump it would take five to seven days with no water evap.

Having two check valves is entirely up to you. If you pump can handle pushing through two of them that is. If you add a check valve and also drill a small hole like I stated before that is more than enough reason not to use two check valves.
 
I ordered 2 just in case!!! Better safe than sorry, if you know what I mean? I had a lot of Murphy's Law Moments in my Fish tank carreer
 
Actinics just came out
Protien Skimmers were just being tested
Cannister filters were the "In" thing
Undergravel Filters were a must
Crushed coral for substrate
No refractometers, had to rely on bobbing hydrometers or swing arms
Metal Halides had only 1 or 2 colors
Metal Halide fixtures were around the 1000.00 USD mark
Never attempt to try a salt tank under 55 gallons
Very few corals available and most died in no time

I can go on and on, if interested I can continue

Ahhh those were the days, and I remember them all too well. That is the reason today about the myths of keeping a reef tank is so expensive. We used to have to replace all our corals when they died from all the proteins.
 
I thought the way you had it setup was for the top switch to shutoff your water I didn't know that the bottom float was wired to shut it off also. In that case then you do have an extra safety as well.
 
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