Bring on the through the floor bulkheads!!

[parajack]

Can the majority of flow through the floor of the tank get the job done? I'm very seriously considering 3, 1 1/2" cl setups for my 320g 360 view tank (64" x 24" x 17" x 40" FBX... 36"s tall, bent edges. Centered 9" x 9" square overflow with 2, 1" drains, 2, 3/4" returns, and 1, 2" dry bay. Steve's Oregonreef.com is really inspiring to me. Most everything is out of view, and he seems to have the majority of his flow via cl through the floor under rockwork. What do experienced reefers think about the idea of having all rock built either on top of cl return plumbing as Steve did, or elevated just off the floor (1/2-1") by very small pvc support system (I'm going bb for about 70% and will have a separate canyon with sand). The idea being that one of the cl setups with 4 or 5 lockline returns could be dedicated to flow across the entire bottom under all of the rock and aquascaping. This would keep the floor and rock bottom squeaky clean of detritus. The other 2 cl setups would feed another 8 to 10 lockline outlets hidden through out the aquascape plan. My sump return through the top of the overflow would be max 1000gph... Does this seem doable, or am I going to have to have supplemental flow via Tunze or whatever higher up in the tank whether I like it or not?

 

[reedman]

One thing to think about in this plan is that a lot of flow is good, but changing flow is better. You can accomplish this with a motorized ball valve (MBV), an oceans motions device (www.oceansmotions.com), seaswirls, and various other means. By having a changing current you can use less pump(s) to accomplish great flow.

For examples of the MBV setups check out Mike or Nikki's tanks (mojoreef & NaH2O), and for oceansmotions check out John's tank (jlehigh). All of these tanks illustrate how you can use flow directing devices to provide great flow in a more efficient manner.

All that said, I can't argue with the great look of Steve Weast's tank. It is truely a work of art.

On the sand, plan to clean it and replace it periodically. This is what Steve does to keep it clean and prevent it from poluting the water column.

Flow through the sump doesn't need to be that great as you want enough contact time for the skimmer to process the water going through it.

Good luck on the project and keep us posted. Sounds like it is going to be a really nice tank.

-Reed

 

[parajack]

Thanks Reed,
Ok, so if I combine the cl plumbing with a MBV to reduce pump cost (I've read Nikki's start up thread from last year) does the rest of it sound feasible? If I properly size things, I should be able to get enough flow all originating though cl return. Steve doesn't use any flow timer devices or valves. He's just created enough disorganized flow through cl volume to mix up the water to get the job done without these devices.... keep it simple right? I'm sure others have tried this. One of the reasons I had the tank built at a 36" depth (in addition to my long arms ) was so that this would be an option for me... having a small void under all of the rock so I could move a large amount of water from under the rockwork to the display.....I know their must be many differing opinions on this idea. Plz people chime in - I want to start drilling :lol:

 

[parajack]

<<One thing to think about in this plan is that a lot of flow is good, but changing flow is better.

OK, yes I agree, but if I'm pressuring enough flow from below and through the baserock, don't I achieve the same result at some point? I guess this is the answer I'm really looking for. Is it your feeling, that no matter how much flow I produce from below, it's still not going to be random and changing until I add some additional hardware to make it that way?

If you look at my display, you can see the centered overflow. I'm planning on foaming the overflow with an inch or so of black pond foam. I have a dry bay thorugh the overflow for wiring, so I could install a pair of Tunze streams along the upper sides of the overflow and foam around them. In this scenario, they would be pretty unobtrusive. Problem is, I really don't like this idea :shock: Is it possible I'm trying to go against conventional wisdom here? The vast majority of setups don't require everything to go through the floor as they do in my situation....I feel if I go with the Tunzes, I'm admitting defeat before I even fill up my tank

 

[reedman]

Hey Jack,

No, I didn't mean you can't get enough flow without using some form of current changing device. You can put enough pump behind the CL to get random flow by bouncing one outlet off of another and just reconfiguring the locline over time to work around rescaping and coral growth. And you are right that Steve has done his tank this way and it works well. I don't think you would have a problem with this at all.

On going through the floor of the tank, bear in mind that if you get a leak at a bulkhead you will have to drain the tank to repair it. Also, with that in mind, be sure to install ball valves at each of the output/inputs so you can redo/repair plumbing without draining the tank.

It is really nice to have all of the plumbing hidden so it doesn't detract from the reef. And I agree that putting the tunze streams into the tank would be admitting defeat when it comes to a new design (although they work great from what i have seen/heard).

Keep plugging away, I think you're going to have a great show tank.

 

[parajack]

Thanks Reed,

For sure I'm going to run one 1 1/2" cl return along most of the 64" run and have it work primarily for flow under the aquascape. I need to research more the operating cost of each pump vs flow before I decide whether or not to combine the other 2 loops with a MBV to spice up the main flow through the display. If I can get the 10x min flow with 2 of the loops tied through the MBV then that would probably be the best long term solution. Did I hear someone say that there was 1" lockline now available?

On going through the floor of the tank, bear in mind that if you get a leak at a bulkhead you will have to drain the tank to repair it. Also, with that in mind, be sure to install ball valves at each of the output/inputs so you can redo/repair plumbing without draining the tank.

I will certainly have the option to add upper level flow if I were to need it some day for mature coral...As far as the bulkheads through the floor, I realize this is a critical item which must be done correctly. Any insights on brand and/or style of bulkhead fitting would be appreciated. I know that Tenecor is going through the bottom on a regular basis. It's not quite SOP, but close to it. I'm planning on marine sealing the stand, and installing a drain from the stand through the floor below to the shop/hanger area. I should probably prepare the stand (and myself) for a long term slow seeping seal or two. Maybe it will never happen, but I'll be prepared none the less.
Jack