Canopy guts design suggestions?

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

dragoneggs

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2006
Messages
1,140
Location
Seabeck, WA
I am building a 54in long by 36in wide by 18in tall mahogany canopy and looking for ideas on how to support 2 lumenarc 250W MH reflectors. I will have two 48in actinics one on each side and will also have to mount 3 ballasts. Those will probably mount to the top of the canopy. I would like to be able to adjust the height of the lights. There is a single hole on the top of the reflector but that doesn't seem like the best way to hang it!

Thanks for your thoughts!
 
Never tried the lumenarcs, but they are they the same as the lumerics? If so, they are nice and I would have gotten one for my cube had I had the space...You said you wanted to be able to lower the lights. Do you want to be able to accomplish this by simply lowering the reflectors or will raising and lowering the whole canopy an option like Nick (Maxx) did with his? Look here to see what I mean...Really nice idea using a pulley system:)

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4616
 
The canopy is fixed as it will be resting on the top of the tank. So, I need to come up with a way to adjust the lighting internal to the canopy. I am afraid the ballasts, electronic ice caps, will have to be in the canopy.
 
I would place the ballasts outside the canopy just due to the heat and salt.

I have to agree with twillard on not putting the ballast in the hood. The heat generated will heat up your tank and could possibly be a fire hazard. The saltwater environment will shorten the life of the ballast. Then there's the problem with all that electrical right over the water.
 
Thank you for your comments... the problem is that this is an island tank in the middle of the room so my electrical feed is coming up through the middle of the tank. How about if I make a shelf near the top of the canopy and put the ballasts on top of the shelf so they are somewhat isolated from the heat/moisture? I plan to have plenty of venting (two fans) to pull heat out of the top and also try to make a light block so little light (only heat/moisture) wants to escape.
 
Thank you for your comments... the problem is that this is an island tank in the middle of the room so my electrical feed is coming up through the middle of the tank. How about if I make a shelf near the top of the canopy and put the ballasts on top of the shelf so they are somewhat isolated from the heat/moisture? I plan to have plenty of venting (two fans) to pull heat out of the top and also try to make a light block so little light (only heat/moisture) wants to escape.

If there is no where else to put it and it is sealed and ventilated, I could see that working. What about underneath the tank in a well ventilated area and some where the water can't get to it if you get a leak?
 
Don,

I have just the simple shell completed and it is pretty simple frame with cutouts for 2 doors on the long sides and 1 door on each short side. The doors will hinge at the top and swing up to allow access to the top of the tank from all four sides. The canopy will rest on the top corners of the tank such that the canopy will overhang the sides by 2 inches. The bearing blocks in the corner are high density polyethylene HDPE, and are positioned such that the bottom of the door opening is flush with the top of the tank.

Now I am trying to design the interior supports for the reflectors, ballasts, fans, and a power strip with switches. My thinking is the ballasts and power strip can go on an upper shelf and near the fans that are placed to avoid direct light leak upward but allow good ventilation.

Mark
 
I would definatly move the ballast outside even if it means recessing the top so that they will remain hidden and cant be see from any of the 4 sides. I'm assuming this is a island tank.

Don
 
If you are running the electical up thru a false overflow you could put two quiuck disconnects on on the ballast outputs, and put the ballasts in the bottom, and run the cords up to the lights.
Thats the plan on a island tank for one of my customers.
 
It is indeed an island tank. I had planned to have a single 20amp circuit going up through a false overflow inside my center overflow and have a single disconnect to make removal of the canopy easy. I have an eight socket switched power strip that I would mount for on/off control of all lights and fans.

Otherwise I would need to rote alot of wiring back down the false overflow if I mount the ballasts and/or the power strip in the tank stand.

I have a large sump directly under the main tank inside my tank stand. The tank is directly above my crawl space so I really need to locate everything in either the canopy or base. I am though planning to place my main and closed loop pumps in my crawl space to reduce noise.
 
Is the tank built, if not it would be simple to have two overflows built in, one false for the electical and one for water.
 
Tank is not built but designed to have a conduit inside the center overflow box. I just don't want a bunch of wiring running back through the conduit. I thought it to be elegant to have a power strip in the hood for easy install/removal of components.
 
Tagging along....

We were going to try and use something like these hangers for my Lumenarcs: PFO Hanger System. I'm not sure if another hole was going to have to be drilled in the top of the reflector, or not, because the weight distribution was going to be weird.

You are using the standard size Lumenarcs (not the minis)?
 
Hi Nikki,

Yes I bought a couple of the Lumenarc IIIs. There is only one hole in the middle top and with the socket and bulb my fear is it will be hanging crooked. I also want to be able to adjust it. I looked the the PFO hanger system you shared and I am wondering if I really have enough room to hang it or just screw it into the top of my canopy and somehow make the top adjustable.
 
Back
Top