Chemistry noob questions

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Ca and Alk

but I dont have the mag test

I have the API Reef test kit and bought the Ammonia and PH test seperate

The hardness test measures the alk dunno why they call i thardness test though.
but the lil booklet says it is directly related to Alk and ph levels. I just follow the pamplet and if i am in the desired range according to its scale i move on.


Mag test I do not have and i will have to get it.
 
While your at it check out two part solutions for additives and you will save plenty of money. Also read the articles about randy's diy two part.

Don

Ill have to search for that....I was just reading some of Boomers articles before I replied.


Alk is related to PH ...so maintaining good Alk will help me maintain a balanced PH ...the support of maintained PH will also be supported by water changes.. (so far this is what I am gathering).

Calcium I know its importance the good news is last test few days ago said 480.

Magnesium im going to research that more about its importance and dosing for it here in a sec...

Besides knowing what to dose for...I have this stupid desire to know why...i know its probably annoying as hell ....but I am just trying to absorb as much info as I can.
 
Don and War

Using or adding the SeaChem Marine Buffer is bad. That is why on their own website they do not recommend it for reef tanks but FOT. There are multiple reasons for this. First, it has massive amounts of Borate which will skew the Alk test kit, giving you much lower Carbonate Alk for your corals than the test indicates. Second, it is a pH specific buffer and interferes with normal Ca++ and Alk sups when trying to keep normal Ca++ and Alk levels, as it shifts them to another level other than normal. It is fine to use one of the SeaChem reef buffers, not just this one. For example, the Ca++ is 350 ppm and you try to raise it to 400 ppm and it just falls right back to where it was. Further additions of Ca++ just does the same thing.

War

Boomer. The advise as of recent that Marine Buffer just keeps it at 8.3 no higher..


I'm quite familiar of what the buffer is and is in it and how it suppose to be used. I helped Dr Morin 25 years ago with it when he brought it out to control pH in FOT. It is not designed or used for Alk but pH. It is one of the "Target" buffers which do not belong in reef tanks.

Alk is related to PH ...so maintaining good Alk will help me maintain a balanced PH

Not really, that is only half of the story. Alk will do nothing for pH if there is high CO2 in the water. If you have a Alk of 5 meq / l or 14dkH the pH can still fall like a rock.

Calcium I know its importance the good news is last test few days ago said 480.

That is usually considered to high and if you are a beginner it is for sure to high. Let it come down on its own ~ 410 - 425. Stop the use ot the Marine Buffer and use the other reef buffer from SeaChem. Try to keep the Alk around 3.5 meq/ l or 10 dkH and the Mg++ around 1,300 ppm and pH 8.1 to 8.3
 
Thanks for clearing it up for me ...yes im a noobie =). Ive been reading a lot of the articles in the chemistry section and some forums topics at the site in your sig.

So much info its overwhelming me.....

I know my water is oxygenated well...I have a Needlewheel Coral Life skimmer...lots of micro bubbles =) ...I also crack my door open every few days to reduce the humidity in the room at my house and get some fresh air. Indoor CO2 issue reducer =) ...and micro bubbles in tank at times from my skimmer ...oxygen city.

I guess I should have been more specific in addressing you boomer.

What Products do I need to keep on hand to dose my tank with for Calc, Alk, Mag, PH, and what product is best for minerals and vitamins for reefs?

That should have been my original direct question.

For Calc and ALk I can use C-Balance

For Magnesium TechM

PH for my reef SeaChems Reef buffer

And So far nobody said SeaChem Plus was bad...so I will keep using that for minerals and vitamins.


That about covers everything right?
 
You might find it better in time to go where Don suggested and do your own DIY sup's. These Aquarium compamy sup's, like you those you listed, can get expensive. Second, the only buffer you only really need, in most cases, is just plain Arm & Hammer Baking Soda. Either Don or I can help you on this.

Don and I will tell you the same thing on sup's like SeaChem Plus, not really needed. If you decide to still use it cut the dosage in half or even to 1/4. You are a beginner and need to stay extra simple on things.
 
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