converting from fresh to salt

[NanaReefer]

CPR Aquafuge is the brand of HOB fuge I run. Not so much for filtration purposes but for maintaining a healthy Pod population, a little added water volume and a place to keep an unsightly heater.
I've personally never ran carbon. Maintaining regular water changes, 30lbs of LR, an mp10 and a HOB skimmer rated for tanks up to 75g's on my 26g, is all the filtration I've ever needed.

 

[Krish]

how does carbon help in a saltwater system?

Another use for carbon is to absorb odors and discoloration in your water as well as urine. I ran carbon 24/7 in my tanks and changed it regularly (every week or so).


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[andrew45]

The conversion from fresh to salt water is not a difficult process. As it can be easily done by adding some salt to tank. But 30 gallon there is need of higher amount of salt to keep the balance of water and salt.

The use of carbon is very good idea while conversion.




Marine Powerheads

 

[blk822822]

I run carbon to keep the stink down in my stand from the refuge and skimmer, and it polishes the water. I ran it on an Tiger Oscar (fresh water )tank, and it cause hole in the head on my fish. I removed it and the fish healed up. But on my saltwater tank I've had no issues. But it does keep the low tide smell out of my stand area where the sump is. Also when I run it I put it in a canister befor my GFO or Phosban to help keep the phosband from collecting stuff it dosn't need to and plugging it up from the phosphates.

 

[Krish]

The use of carbon is very good idea while conversion.




Marine Powerheads

What does linking to a website about powerheads have to do with carbon? Are you trolling?

 

[mfinn]

What does linking to a website about powerheads have to do with carbon? Are you trolling?

Looks more like selling boat products

 

[Krish]

Looks more like selling boat products

Now he's on an RF vacation


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[mfinn]

Now he's on an RF vacation


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Hopefully there is a whole boat for him to use.

 

[iroll253]

Geeze lol. Okay these are my OPINIONS on what you should do with your tank.

I would ditch the aqua c remora skimmer. If you have to do hang on back then I would go with the eshopps psk-75h skimmer.

Lights, if you are sure that your lights are actually T5's with two prongs on each end of the bulbs then i would replace your bulbs with ATI bulbs. Get 3 blue plus and 1 aqua blue special if you have 4 bulbs. If you find out that you actually have pc lighting then i would replace your lights entirely.

I wouldn't add the bulk of a hang on back refugium. Personally they are just adding to the mess of a tank with hang on filtration and I prefer strictly mechanical filtration if at all possible. ( no offense to anyone that use them they do have their function ) you can always place your heater in the top corner for ease of access or parallel with the sand behind the rocks. Pods to me are not really a need if none of your fish need them to survive. If thats the case you will have enough in your tank alone.

Get rid of everything in those hang on back wheel filters. I would strictly run chemipure elite in a chemipure bag. You can find both of these on dr foster and smiths. You will need the small bags to stretch out the amount in the container. To use it you rinse the media in the bag with cold fresh water and add it to the filter. You will need to replace the media in the bag every two weeks. Media binds to impurities in the water. You are able to remove these impurities by replacing the media regularly.

You will need a REFRACOTMETER with calibration fluid. Your Salt level should stay consistant at 1.025 or 35ish ppm. Do not convert without one.

You will need to drain and clean the whole tank before converting to salt water. As well as start with new water. PLEASE DO THIS

You need a water change kit which includes two buckets, a heater, and a maxijet 1200 pump or similar. A 20% water change once every two weeks is recommended.

To compensate for evaporation you will need to mark a line or dot on a hidden part of the glass to keep a constant water level. Salt does not evaporate with the water so you top off with fresh water only. Keeping a consistant water level or salinity is IMO the most important part of the process. You will need to mix fresh water with synthetic salt like instant ocean reef crystals, heat it to match the temp of the tank and test the salinity to match also to do the water change or purchase pre made salt water from somewhere around the area. IMO make your own.


Good luck.

 

[ArronJodi]

You know in actuallity, carbon is not really needed. It will help polish the water. I would suggest using them just for the filter alone to collect detritus for easy removal. I also put the sponge filter in to grow benificial bacteria.
Everyone is against the bioballs and media because they collect detritus and left over food and are hard to clean out and cause an increase in nitrates in turn an increase in nusiance algae growth.
You know, what I used to hear a lot and what I have told people too, is "What works for me, may or may not work for you. Take all the information you get, put it together to fit your needs and work with it." Everything stated is more than likely peoples opinion and some of it has been proven but there is "no right way" and if what you try works for you, thats great!
So with that, read old threads. All the questions have been asked and argued before. Ask question if you cant find the answers and take what you get and work with it to fit your needs. I did. I dont do things the way most everyone else does. And I think I have been pretty succesful for the past 4 years. I dont run carbon in any of my tanks. I dont use any mechanical filtration except for a skimmer and a little filter floss or filter sock.
I dont know anyone running a system with the equipment you are using. It could work for you.
Lets see some pictures anyway. We all love and require pictures!

I'm trying to post pictures but I'm having problems uploading pic's in the attachment section. In my profile I've added pictures of my tank and certain specific photos. Any suggestions.

 

[trido]

A lot of good information in this thread. I'll repeat one thing though. You need more flow. Most people don't count filtration as part of their flow but in a nano I wouldnt count it out. Even if you do count your filtration at your estimated 640 GPH you only have a 21x turnover. A reef tank needs a minimum of 30x turnover or in your case, 1000 GPH. Really you should shoot for closer to a 50x IMO or 1500 GPH of flow. Remember, your trying to recreate a violent ocean, not a river or lake. A LOT OF FLOW IS NORMAL.

When I ran my 30 with no skimmer and only HOB filter a couple years ago I removed the stock media and ran with a carbon bag which I replaced once a month. I had to top off with RO daily and did 4 gallon WC's every two weeks to keep the dkh and Ca stable. It was an acropora tank and I didn't supplement anything else. Keep the fish load light and you should be fine

 

[BoxerbREEF]

I have a 24 AIO tank (think that qualifies as a Nano). I can tell you that I do a 5 gallon per week change at the least and that my parameters stay fairly stable. I occasionally do alk additives and ass Purpleup every once in awhile. I think the reason I am good is that I spent the first 6 weeks I had with my tank with sand and a couple of cocktail shrimp and let the cycle go naturally. I then added my live Rock (cured for 2 weeks in a tub with flow) and let it go through another cycle. Let ammonia and phosphate go to zero before adding anything. I got some diatoms, but was told that is a sign that a new tank is cycling. Let them go away with a couple 5 gallon changes. Then I added a couple snails... Slow and steady. I did get a cyno attack once, and I was told by Erik at Barrier to turn my lights out for 3 days and let the cyano go through its cycle and then it would stay away for good. It has so far (it ahs been a couple months with no return). I have my water at 1.025+- , an 8.4 PH, 1400 mag, and a little above recommended calcium. The elevated calcium would precipitate if the magnesium was not high as well, so a balance there is important (or has been for me). I have 2 clowns, 2 dragon face pipe, cleaner shrimp, an urchin, a blenny, a banded Serpent star and a few cleaner crew....I have about 35 Coral, which are a mix of zoas, large Frogspawn, a couple torches, Duncan, RBTA, birds nest, couple montis, dendro, tubestea, plate, list goes on...lol YES I HAVE A PROBLEM! I have added a couple large pieces of Broken Leg Macro Algae (my starfish likes to hide under it).

Best advice I ever got was to have patience and cycle slow....cycle again...then add slow.... after awhile, you can add and add and add. LOL

 

[user 26995]

I have a 24 AIO tank (think that qualifies as a Nano). I can tell you that I do a 5 gallon per week change at the least and that my parameters stay fairly stable. I occasionally do alk additives and ass Purpleup every once in awhile. I think the reason I am good is that I spent the first 6 weeks I had with my tank with sand and a couple of cocktail shrimp and let the cycle go naturally. I then added my live Rock (cured for 2 weeks in a tub with flow) and let it go through another cycle. Let ammonia and phosphate go to zero before adding anything. I got some diatoms, but was told that is a sign that a new tank is cycling. Let them go away with a couple 5 gallon changes. Then I added a couple snails... Slow and steady. I did get a cyno attack once, and I was told by Erik at Barrier to turn my lights out for 3 days and let the cyano go through its cycle and then it would stay away for good. It has so far (it ahs been a couple months with no return). I have my water at 1.025+- , an 8.4 PH, 1400 mag, and a little above recommended calcium. The elevated calcium would precipitate if the magnesium was not high as well, so a balance there is important (or has been for me). I have 2 clowns, 2 dragon face pipe, cleaner shrimp, an urchin, a blenny, a banded Serpent star and a few cleaner crew....I have about 35 Coral, which are a mix of zoas, large Frogspawn, a couple torches, Duncan, RBTA, birds nest, couple montis, dendro, tubestea, plate, list goes on...lol YES I HAVE A PROBLEM! I have added a couple large pieces of Broken Leg Macro Algae (my starfish likes to hide under it).

Best advice I ever got was to have patience and cycle slow....cycle again...then add slow.... after awhile, you can add and add and add. LOL

Wow. I would love to see pics of your tank. Would love it if you would start a build thread in the members showcase forum. Great info. We all say it and most of us ignore it, but like you said, take it slow and have patience. Thank you for sharing.