Coral Banded Shrimp compatable with Pearl coral LPS

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abbydaisey

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
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6
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have a dying Pearl Coral/Plerogyra. :(

I see the coral banded shrimp crawing all over it. I have read at some sites they are compatable, but others say that the shrimp can destroy it by nipping at the coral. Temp and water conditions are good. The tank is over 6 months but less than 1 year. Water flow is light and lighting is moderate.

I am feeding the coral Phytoplankton and the shrimp dried food as well as frozen formula 2.

Is the shrimp killing my coral?? :confused:
 
Not sure...sometimes coral banded shrimp can be hard on some things. I have had both the coral banded and the smaller golden coral banded shrimp at different times. It seemed to me the golden banded was much less destructive.
 
Can you describe the condition of the coral? CB shrimp in general are quite uninterested in corals except possibly to steal food from them. Like most animals with claws they are opportunistic feeders but the CB shrimp IME tends to be a simple scavenger.

They will however walk over just about anything/everything in their travels for food. It could simpley be the movements of the shrimp have stressed the coral making it look sickly but unless the coral was in a state of decline (necrosis) the shrimp would be unintersted otherwise.

As far as the foods, they do relish a good feeding and it's a good habit to keep up. This is where the shrimp may be coming into play if your target feeding the coral the shrimp comes in later trying to steal the food. As far as what you feed, personally I wouldn't use the freeze dried foods and the phyto isn't directly usuable by this coral as far as I know. Just be sure that any frozen foods are thawed well ahead of time before use. Any minced meaty marine foods will be quite good for this type of coral but fresh preferabley.

As far as light & flow, it does like both a little on the lower side and does need to be placed closer to (if not on) the substrate depending on intesity. If placed on/near rock it is also important the septa (or flesh) are not in constant contact with hard surfaces. It can often cause irritation leading to recession or necrosis. They need a fair amount of "realestate".

Can you post a pic of the coral and your water chemistry numbers...?

Cheers
Steve
 
My sense is that a combination of moderate to high water flow and only feeding Phytoplankton over three months have stressed the coral.

Since Wednesday we have been feeding pieces of Orange Ruffie and the healthy looking areas of coral have been gobbling them up. It is after these feedings that the CBS moves in and climbs all over the coral in search of scrapes. The healthy coral inflates it's stinging tenicles but to no avail.

We read in another post that this coral shares a common stomach. Do you know if that is true? As the healthy area is eating it would be nice to know that at least the coral has food in it's stomach.

On the subject of lighting we have a Coralife canopy with two 95 watt lights (Actinin 03 Blue and 10,000K Daylight) and the coral is about 8" down from the top of the tank. Due to heat restrictions we have not gone the halide route and were told that this type of light would be acceptable to the Coral. As you can see from the picture the area on the left has minimal bubbles and is dying back while the area on the right looks, to my untrained eye, great.

We have not tested the water since last week when we performed our bi-weekly water change. We have a six stage RO filter and our water tests have always been dead on. We will test again this evening and if ther is something out of wack will let you know immediatly. What do you think we need to do to save this coral?

Thanks again!!
 
Last edited:
abbydaisey said:
My sense is that a combination of moderate to high water flow and only feeding Phytoplankton over three months have stressed the coral.
Agreed it would but you also seem to have a placement problem. The coral is being irritated on the left side (distressv3.jpg). The rock appears to be rubbing up against the area higher up on the coral skelaton where the flesh of the crown is located. There is also the presence of cyano on that adjacent rock. If you could post a full tank shot, I (others) might be able to suggest better placement options. The rock from what I can see along with the proximity (too close) to the lighting are your issues.

We read in another post that this coral shares a common stomach. Do you know if that is true? As the healthy area is eating it would be nice to know that at least the coral has food in it's stomach.
Yes but only to a point. As the coral grow it begins to divide and no longer shares resources. If you notice the "V" shape of the coral, it has two distinct coral heads so these will not benefit from each other from what I can tell by the picture.

On the subject of lighting we have a Coralife canopy with two 95 watt lights (Actinin 03 Blue and 10,000K Daylight) and the coral is about 8" down from the top of the tank. Due to heat restrictions we have not gone the halide route and were told that this type of light would be acceptable to the Coral. As you can see from the picture the area on the left has minimal bubbles and is dying back while the area on the right looks, to my untrained eye, great.
Actually it's much more common this coral will die in extreme reef lighting than less adequate lighting. They can/will adapt to it but if placed in a high area of the tank immediately, they often go into "light shock" if you will and kills it quite quickly. These corals no matter the lighting when first introduced are best placed in a low region (substrate) of the tank and gradually if possible moved upwards ever so slowly an inch or two every few weeks. If an MH tank, they may actually need to be placed in an area that provides shade, an outcropping or cave perhaps.

We have not tested the water since last week when we performed our bi-weekly water change. We have a six stage RO filter and our water tests have always been dead on. We will test again this evening and if ther is something out of wack will let you know immediatly.
If you could actually post the numbered results good or bad, that would be a great help. Sometimes an insignificant number to some can be a significant piece of the puzzle to the health of a coral.

What do you think we need to do to save this coral?
Quite honestly I think you need to relocate the coral to somewhere it will have "free" reign on all side and only be supporeted at it's base. The substrate would be a good place but without seeing the total depth/rock placement I am unsure if the coral would recieve sufficient light. If it can be placed on the substrate (if no sifting fish species), this will also make it much easier for feedings. A plastic container can be fashioned (with holes) to cover it when fed to keep the shrimp et al out while it can digest the foods unhindered. You may actually need to make choice between these two if it comes down to it. The coral cannot be continuously moved or it will just add to it's ailing health. Feedings are the best means of improving that. If you have Selcon or another good liq marine vitamin, soak the foods in that overnight before feeding.

At worst you may end up losing the left side of the coral but you will not lose the entire colony. Be absolutely sure you keep a close eye out for "brown jelly" disease as these corals are easily susceptible.

Cheers
Steve
 
In addition to what Steve has posted, I'd reccomend something else...feed the shrimp first. Works well if the shrimp has a mouthful, that way it wont go nuts looking for food everywhere else.

Nick
 
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