DIY cone pyramid skimmer
- Thread starter Sakimaru8
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I was thinking about removing the turbine blade flush. However, I didn't want to drill the base of the impeller so that I can tie the mesh to it. It may rub the zip tie against the black cap. Not much clearance between the base of the impeller (white) and the black cap.
Tieing the mesh with 30lb test is not an option for me because all the knots I tied loosen with time. Plus, spinning it above 1000 rpm may speed up the unravelling of the knot.
Drilling a hole big enough so that the zip tie can go thru was my current choice :idea:. Plus, I can always remove it later if the blade didn't work out.
As for scfh, Tuesday is the ETA of my dwyer flowmeter according to fedex tracking. I can't wait to get the numbers as well.
I used zip ties on one of my 1500 max flo and it worked perfect. I was a bit concerned with the clearance but as you can see there's plenty of room. Just for a ref pic : )
Whats funny is it gave me 65w and 65scfh with 4 layers of mesh and 75scfh and 57w with a PW and that is hooked up to my skimmer.
Whats funny is it gave me 65w and 65scfh with 4 layers of mesh and 75scfh and 57w with a PW and that is hooked up to my skimmer.
Your newer 1500 max flo impeller has more clearance with plenty of room to zip tie. My Laguna 5000 has way less clearance.
Comparing Laguna's newer Max Flo 1500 to older Power Jet 5000
The older Laguna 5000 impeller has less clearance and smaller diameter.
That looks similar to my Euro Maxi Jet 1800. As I decrease air with the needle valve the wattage increases. As I increase the air the wattage drops. I update my watt to air flow as soon as I hook the Dwyer up Tuesday
Comparing Laguna's newer Max Flo 1500 to older Power Jet 5000
The older Laguna 5000 impeller has less clearance and smaller diameter.
That looks similar to my Euro Maxi Jet 1800. As I decrease air with the needle valve the wattage increases. As I increase the air the wattage drops. I update my watt to air flow as soon as I hook the Dwyer up Tuesday
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I need to get a hold of this 1 million rpm motor to mesh mod. I dont think I'll need a venturi for this motor pump mod :badgrin: Anybody going to Zurich soon?
http://www.livescience.com/technology/081114-record-rpm-spin.html
"The rotor in the new device has a titanium shell to withstand flying apart like a star. Ultra-thin copper wire is used for the windings, which are inserted in a cylinder "made of special iron previously unused for machines," the researchers said in a statement. Top-secret stuff, apparently."
Titanium shell will definitely work with saltwater. I am not sure how to cool it down.
http://www.livescience.com/technology/081114-record-rpm-spin.html
"The rotor in the new device has a titanium shell to withstand flying apart like a star. Ultra-thin copper wire is used for the windings, which are inserted in a cylinder "made of special iron previously unused for machines," the researchers said in a statement. Top-secret stuff, apparently."
Titanium shell will definitely work with saltwater. I am not sure how to cool it down.
The Dwyer air flowmeter came in. It is 16" long with 1/2" inlet and outlet. It has a fine adjustment air flow dial. Nice - I am using it instead of the needle valve.
Maxi-Jet Submersible NJ 1800 Utility Pump mod pulls about 13-16 scfh with 2.25" neck @ 35watts. 10 scfh @ 40watts.
This falls within the 'sweet spot' of 1.77-2.47scfh per sq. in of neck area. 7.2scfh for 2" diameter and 16.2 for 3" diameter. 5" neck can handle 45scfh.
I can't decide what kind of outlet for the Laguna 5000. Options are
1. 1" pipe + 1"slip barb
2. 1" threaded barb (PITA to cut the thread)
3. mod slip 1"barb
4. mod threaded coupling + threaded 1"barb
Maxi-Jet Submersible NJ 1800 Utility Pump mod pulls about 13-16 scfh with 2.25" neck @ 35watts. 10 scfh @ 40watts.
This falls within the 'sweet spot' of 1.77-2.47scfh per sq. in of neck area. 7.2scfh for 2" diameter and 16.2 for 3" diameter. 5" neck can handle 45scfh.
I can't decide what kind of outlet for the Laguna 5000. Options are
1. 1" pipe + 1"slip barb
2. 1" threaded barb (PITA to cut the thread)
3. mod slip 1"barb
4. mod threaded coupling + threaded 1"barb
Broke the first volute while drilling the outlet hole
Cleaned and removed the acrylic ring & installed a 2nd one. Let it sit over night and drilled again at higher speed. 2nd time is a charm.
View attachment 30394 1" barb outlet glued
View attachment 30395
View attachment 30397
Dry fit the cover to the acrylic volute ring. Dry fit the venturi and fittings. It is ready for submersible testing tommorrow while the glue sets on the outlet.
Cleaned and removed the acrylic ring & installed a 2nd one. Let it sit over night and drilled again at higher speed. 2nd time is a charm.
View attachment 30394 1" barb outlet glued
View attachment 30395
View attachment 30397
Dry fit the cover to the acrylic volute ring. Dry fit the venturi and fittings. It is ready for submersible testing tommorrow while the glue sets on the outlet.
The venturi above is gone. It managed 20-30scfh only.
Modded 1.5" pipe with 0.5" air inlet. 90Scfh 2550lph 42.5lpm
View attachment 30401
View attachment 30402
Modded 1.5" pipe with 0.5" air inlet. 90Scfh 2550lph 42.5lpm
View attachment 30401
View attachment 30402
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If you have a 2" thick volute that is 3-4" wide and a 1" input and output you should get atleast 60scfh minimum, most likely 80-120scfh. How are you making your venturi? Should be 1/8" to 1/4" aspiring. I think thats the prob your running into.
Reefdaddy1
Reef Geek Jedi
Man been awhile, Whats up with this build?
