dieden
Exocoetidae
question, I didn't see a fan in your parts list. Do you hav one on this build, or is there already one in the lighting housing?
DIY "LED" build "Linear Design"
- Thread starter Katchupoy
- Start date
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Katchupoy
Well-known member
Right now, no fan is needed. Hours of running 100% and the temp of the aluminum tube only goes 100 F +/-. Warm to the touch.
dieden
Exocoetidae
That sounds promising. Just a little cooler than MH, okay maybe a lot cooler.
tat2z_21
tat2z_21
So I made my order, I also was thinking of ordering a "RGB" dimming circuit.
I was thinking of using this and just using the 2 side, or the "RG" and leave the "B" side for night lights. Do you think that I would be able to use this after the MEANWELL driver.
http://www.virtualvillage.com/4a-wireless-rgb-led-controller-w-6-key-remote-control-001496-002.html
I was thinking of using this and just using the 2 side, or the "RG" and leave the "B" side for night lights. Do you think that I would be able to use this after the MEANWELL driver.
http://www.virtualvillage.com/4a-wireless-rgb-led-controller-w-6-key-remote-control-001496-002.html
tamarindthai
Well-known member
Cesar,,how are the corals response to the new light..
Katchupoy
Well-known member
Im not really sure. I think it wont work.
Katchupoy
Well-known member
Dang I dont know, they are not like reaching out for lack of light. But not also small for too much light... So I guess, its all good. But still too soon to tell... One thing though I have this milipora than is like dead on the bottom. But now showed sign of life. I believe they like the blue light... Im ordering another set of blue. I want to recreate your radium 20k look Dang.
Katchupoy
Well-known member
Im really guessing here. But based on my existing 6 bulb T5's, The 24 LEDs can easily match the intensity if not more. Note: This is based on my perception on what I see. And also through photography. Not a scientific approach, So i can be really wrong here. Either way, I can always add up.
I believe they are correct. Lets do the math.
48*18 = 864/48(leds) = 18 -> about right...
48*18 = 864/24(leds) = 36 -> This is what Im using right now. Need to add 12 more.
The guideline:
10=Hard Core (Too Much) Light. Very Deep Tank
15=SPS (most people use)
20=LPS, Softies
25=Softies
The problem I have right now (24 LEDs) is that the blues is on the front does not reach the back of my tank. The whites has a very good spread front to back. So If im sticking with 24 LEDs then I need a wider spread for the blues. If im going to 36 LEDs, then 60 degree optics is ok.
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what math is this please explain what this means.
Also what does this stand for? 10 what? 15 what? etc.
trying to figure this out because if we go with a 8 foot tank that is 24" wide and 24" deep we were told we would need three fixtures with 60 LED's per heatsink OR three tubes like yours with 60 LED on each. 40 blue and 20 white to equal a 400w radium MH. Do you see the math in this?
Also what does this stand for? 10 what? 15 what? etc.
trying to figure this out because if we go with a 8 foot tank that is 24" wide and 24" deep we were told we would need three fixtures with 60 LED's per heatsink OR three tubes like yours with 60 LED on each. 40 blue and 20 white to equal a 400w radium MH. Do you see the math in this?
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tat2z_21
tat2z_21
I believe that it is the Length of the tank "48" multiplied by the depth of the tank "18" divided by the amount of LEDs.
48*18= 864 square inches divided by number of LEDs 864/24 or 48.
I believe that the 10, 15, 20 is the square inch that each LED will cover.
tat2z_21
tat2z_21
But if that is correct then the 18x3w crees that I will be putting over my Biocube will not be good enough for my LPS.
20.8x20.1= 418.08
418/18=23.2
If that is correct then it is saying that I will be barely powering enough for softies.
20.8x20.1= 418.08
418/18=23.2
If that is correct then it is saying that I will be barely powering enough for softies.
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Katchupoy
Well-known member
Lets do the math.
All of this numbers are based on the giant thread regarding LEDs on the other forum.
48*18 = 864/48(leds) = 18 -> about right...
The guideline:
10 leds = Hard Core (Too Much) Light. Very Deep Tank
15 leds = SPS (most people use)
20 leds = LPS, Softies
25 leds = Softies
THE EXPLANATION...
48inches * 18inches = is the surface area of your tank.
864 = is the area in square inches
48 LEDs = is the number of LEDs that they are suggesting for you to use.
18 = is the resulting factor. It means that your LED setup will be between above factor of 20 (LPS, Softies) and 15 (SPS)
or if you want, you can compute it by factor.
48*18 = 864 sq in.
864 / 15 = (looking at the guidelines above) if you want to keep SPS
the answer is 57.6 or if you round it off = 60 LEDs.
60 LEDs if you want to keep SPS in your tank. Like i said, just a guideline. I believe, this is still too much light.
Hope this helps.
All of this numbers are based on the giant thread regarding LEDs on the other forum.
48*18 = 864/48(leds) = 18 -> about right...
The guideline:
10 leds = Hard Core (Too Much) Light. Very Deep Tank
15 leds = SPS (most people use)
20 leds = LPS, Softies
25 leds = Softies
THE EXPLANATION...
48inches * 18inches = is the surface area of your tank.
864 = is the area in square inches
48 LEDs = is the number of LEDs that they are suggesting for you to use.
18 = is the resulting factor. It means that your LED setup will be between above factor of 20 (LPS, Softies) and 15 (SPS)
or if you want, you can compute it by factor.
48*18 = 864 sq in.
864 / 15 = (looking at the guidelines above) if you want to keep SPS
the answer is 57.6 or if you round it off = 60 LEDs.
60 LEDs if you want to keep SPS in your tank. Like i said, just a guideline. I believe, this is still too much light.
Hope this helps.
Katchupoy
Well-known member
Are you doing strips too? if so, i suggest you start small. 18 LEDs is good as a starting point. Then you can keep adding later.
May i ask why 18? and not 24? based on by 12's?
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tat2z_21
tat2z_21
Money is the driving factor behind everything that I do. I have to sneak money otherwise my thirteen year old daughter starts asking for things.
I have a question. If you run or want the same continuous power from the lights do you need to make them dimmable? You mentioned it was cheaper to not have the drivers. So is that a practical approach? I like the idea of leds for longer lasting and powers savings but I am trying to figure out the costs and if it is practical to do a lower cost approach that wont end up costing more in the long run. I am planning for about I have a tank with about 1296 sq in and I have softies and I am trying to work to having a mixed tank with sps, lps and softies.
Myteemouse
NOTHING
Steves LED guy told me its a BIG NO NO to run LED's and MH at the same time it will over heat the LED's and shorten there time and negativly effect the par..
That being said I love your design I was thinking the same thing for my reef to replace the T-5's..
How do you like the blues with the MH's???
That being said I love your design I was thinking the same thing for my reef to replace the T-5's..
How do you like the blues with the MH's???
Katchupoy
Well-known member
Yes it is $15 +/- cheaper compared toa dimmable driver for a 12 LED kit. Of course you can use the constant current drivers specially for the blues and on timers. I prefer to use dimmables on the whites, so i can tone it down if its too much for my taste, and for the corals taste (bleaching)
