DIY Phytoplankton Culture Station

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OldDawg

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2005
Messages
15
Location
Spokane, Wa.
I recently put together a DIY Culture Station for phytoplankton, brineshrimp, copepods, raising fry etc, easy to make, cheap and will keep a culture of phytoplankton rotating for 6-8 months.

The idea was based on an article by Dwayne Sapp, "DIY Culture Station" which I adapted to fit my needs and space in fish room. I used 1" PVC pipe, airline tubing, air pump, 2L empty Coke bottles, 2 flourescent lights, and a timer. The cost of the project was minimum, and putting it together was relatively easy.

To start the culture you will need a nanochloropsis culture on a disk, sterilized RO water to make a salt water solution with a SG of 1.020, and a F2 fertilizer solution. Sterilizing the RO or tap water will help eliminate contamination, which is the major cause of a culture crash. There are various other microalgae cultures available, and some people prefer a mixed solution, I chose nanochloropsis because it is the easiest one to grow and works well. I thoroughly cleaned and sterilized my empty 2L Coke bottles, they are cheap to purchase and easy to replace once they get too dirty to clean up.

I keep the airline just above the bottom of the bottle, and on a slow bubble so the solution is constantly moving but not foaming at the top. I have the timer set for 16 hours of light, which seems to give the best growth rate. I keep everything as clean and aseptic as possible, carefully washing my hands before touching anything, and hopefully this should help avoid contamination.

I have 5 bottles for the phytoplankton culture, labelled A, B, C, D and E. Once bottle A is ready to use, dark green so I can no longer see through the bottle, I will take 1/3 of the bottle and put it into bottle B. Then top up bottle A with culture medium (salt water plus F2 fertilizer) and top up Bottle B to the 2L mark. I do this until bottle E is ready to use, and now I have 500ml or 1000ml of fresh phytoplankton to either feed my tanks with, or to grow brine shrimp, copepods and fry. I should have a continuous supply of fresh phytoplankton solution for use.

Adding phytoplankton to the marine tank is amazing, the fish love it, the corals love it and your sand bed will come alive with lots of new creatures. Brine shrimp grow easily in the phytoplankton, and the same culture system can be used for growing brineshrimp and copepods.
 
Cool! I have a few questions - does any of the fertilizer solution go into the tank when it is ready to dose? I'm guessing the fertilizer is a form of phosphate and/or nitrate? Or, is the fertilizer used up by the time the phyto is dosed? Thanks
 
I doubt any of the F2 Fertilizer is left in the culture as the plankton will use it to grow. But yes it does contain phosphate and nitrate, plus a lot of other very important trace elements that are needed for the algae growth. This F2 formula has been used in the industry for 30 years and since you only add a small amount I doubt you will get much left over.

But this is a good question, and when we split our culture next time I will check it for phosphate and nitrates and let you know. It will be an interesting experiment to see what the levels are.
 
Thanks OldDawg. I've wondered about the fertilizers and whether or not they get completely used up. Look forward to seeing the results!
 
OldDawg said:
I recently put together a DIY Culture Station for phytoplankton, brineshrimp, copepods, raising fry etc, easy to make, cheap and will keep a culture of phytoplankton rotating for 6-8 months.

The idea was based on an article by Dwayne Sapp, "DIY Culture Station" which I adapted to fit my needs and space in fish room. I used 1" PVC pipe, airline tubing, air pump, 2L empty Coke bottles, 2 flourescent lights, and a timer. The cost of the project was minimum, and putting it together was relatively easy.

To start the culture you will need a nanochloropsis culture on a disk, sterilized RO water to make a salt water solution with a SG of 1.020, and a F2 fertilizer solution. Sterilizing the RO or tap water will help eliminate contamination, which is the major cause of a culture crash. There are various other microalgae cultures available, and some people prefer a mixed solution, I chose nanochloropsis because it is the easiest one to grow and works well. I thoroughly cleaned and sterilized my empty 2L Coke bottles, they are cheap to purchase and easy to replace once they get too dirty to clean up.

I keep the airline just above the bottom of the bottle, and on a slow bubble so the solution is constantly moving but not foaming at the top. I have the timer set for 16 hours of light, which seems to give the best growth rate. I keep everything as clean and aseptic as possible, carefully washing my hands before touching anything, and hopefully this should help avoid contamination.

I have 5 bottles for the phytoplankton culture, labelled A, B, C, D and E. Once bottle A is ready to use, dark green so I can no longer see through the bottle, I will take 1/3 of the bottle and put it into bottle B. Then top up bottle A with culture medium (salt water plus F2 fertilizer) and top up Bottle B to the 2L mark. I do this until bottle E is ready to use, and now I have 500ml or 1000ml of fresh phytoplankton to either feed my tanks with, or to grow brine shrimp, copepods and fry. I should have a continuous supply of fresh phytoplankton solution for use.

Adding phytoplankton to the marine tank is amazing, the fish love it, the corals love it and your sand bed will come alive with lots of new creatures. Brine shrimp grow easily in the phytoplankton, and the same culture system can be used for growing brineshrimp and copepods.

Isnt nanochloropsis The dark green algae that grows on your glass in your reef tank. I dont meen the coraline. Cause I heard everytimr you scrap it off you are feeding your filter feeders. Thanks
 
Notice that F2 has metals, and traces of copper.

Just my preference....but I wouldn't dose homemade phyto into a tank. It is not like DT's. You would need to centrifuge the algal cells and then replace the liquid with fresh saltwater.

a lot of people do not have the means for this, although maybe you do. Looks like a great setup.

Again, just my opinion, if it works for ya, keep on using it :)

Best,
Ilham
 
Nanochloropsis may well be one of the varieties of algae you get on the glass - but I would guess there is a mixture of different algaes present on the glass. Nanochloropsis has been used for years to produce phytoplankton and is excellent for feeding brine shrimp, enriching live foods, and feeding fry etc. because it contains essential fatty acids.
Many people dose their tanks with homemade phyto - I don't see why you would need to centrifuge the algae cells and add clean saltwater.....you don't add much to the tank at feeds. I am guessing, but surely centrifuging the algae cells would break down the fatty acids and cells...It's cheap to produce your own, and you have a culture that keeps producing so long as you decant half of the culture and regrow it. Mostly we use it for feeding brine shrimp, and fry. I doubt very much that the miniscule amounts of metals and trace amount of copper will cause any problems, I would think they are most likely consumed by the algae as it grows. I may be wrong though.....

Christine
 
I've used home grown phyto for years. Orginally I was buying the largest bottle of DT's every month, and that was expensive. Growing your own is economical. Especially if you grow rotifers to feed to new fry or to your corals.

I'm not a chemist, but we know that copper is bad for our tanks. However, the rotifers consume the phytoplankton all day long and don't die. So maybe the copper is completely absorbed and used up by the algae.

Dosing phyto to my tanks has never ended badly, other than overdosing and adding phosphate to the tank. So don't feed like I do. :)
 
It does not break down anything. It simply strains out the water the algal cells are 'in', and replaces it with new water.

Definitely use the homegrown stuff if you are having no problems.

Wasn't trying to come off as an attack. I don't even dose DT's, but I do grow phyto continuously....for other purposes...such as rotifers, baby fish, etc.

Best,
Ilham
 
Hi, have you checked out Florida Aqua Farms set up@ ttp://florida-aqua-farms.com/secure/agora.cgi?cart_id=2567290.17668*dt3Xm0&product=PLA NKTON_SYSTEMS. Is your station like theirs? Is there an advantage to using a system with bags versus bottles? Also could you explain how your system works better than Dwayne Sapps? I briefly took a look at his system. I raise fresh water variants. I have been using buckets and barrels and am looking for a design that is not so labor intensive and a little more accurate. The bonus to what I have been using is I am raising algae and plankton in large quantities. I use five gallon, 55 and 30 gal containers and would like to increase. What I'm looking to do use a model like yours and some how incorporate with my set up to create a system producing large quantities, yet fairly hands free. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
 
If you dose the F/2 according to instructions, and harvest at the peak density then the F/2 should be basically used up at that point.
It's interesting to note that the levels of protein and Huffa's (fatty acids) go lower if you continue the culture past that point.
Nanno is not the preferred micro to use, just the easiest to culture. It is best to use a blend of various micros for best results.
Nanno has a tough cell structure and isn't available to all organisms for food use.
Here is a table with some comparison figures for some micros.
I used to use a lot of brine for my extensive rotifer and artemia cultures and so I couldn't use fancy set ups like above, and instead, went to open container cultures.
Open container culturingl
However, I found it much less labour intensive to grow the rots and brine using spirulina powder blended in water for two minutes and added as needed to the culture containers.
I still culture about 20g of nanno as I find artemia success is much better using nanno for the first 10 days before switching to spirulina.
I have to clean the rotifer and artemia containers a little more often but I no longer spend anywhere near as much time culturing nanno.
Just a note, I no longer dose nanno to my tanks but instead, I add enriched rotifers. Whether or not it's really fact, I at least perceive the tank to have improved since this change.
I enrich the rotifers with Dan's Feed from seahorsesource.com that I use for my seahorses. It works quite well for the rots going to my tanks.
 
Thanks for the great info. My whole system is fresh water. My Nanno is raised in fresh water with no air and in sealed buckets outdoors. Is there any benefit to aerating the culture? Thanks.
 
Another question: do you only grow algae in this culture station? If so, do you have any idea for culturing plankton,diatoms, etc? Thanks.
 
Aerating the culture keeps the nanno in solution. As it is a non motil algae, it settles to the bottom and depending on how long it is there the lower layers can be smothered causing an eventual crash.
The more intense the light, the faster it grows.
 
That explains some of the problems I have had. How much aeration is needed because won't too much water movement prevent algae from colonizing and "clumping together"? thanks
 
I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish then as my interpretation of "colonizing and clumping" would make me shudder if it happened.
I want the nanno cells to multiply, not to clump together which would make them larger particles, heavier, and more likely to settle out of solution.
I use a reasonably high air flow and the only downside to it is having to add water to replace the evaporation and keep the s.g. steady.
If it starts to get a yellow foam on the top, either it is excessive air or the nano is about to crash.
In the link to my phyto page given above, the picture of the blue 26g rubbermaids shows the degree of aeration I use. Note the foam is white, not yellow, and is not excessive.
 
I'm trying to create the best environment for the nanno, so I can maximize cell multiplication. I guess you can say I'm trying to create the "perfect storm".
 
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