Fastest in wall ever

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sgwill122

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
175
Location
Redmond
I just moved my 180 in wall. I did not document the process here till after the fact so the whole process will take one post rather than the length of the project. Class Clown's in-wall motivated my own project. Made a couple trips to his house and brought the wife over as well to win her over. This is the original tank starting two years ago, a great display of live rock.
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Here is a shot of the tank/hood/stand before the move.
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Here is the location for the new tank room(which sits directly behind the existing tank(exhaust vent on the wall vents the hot air from the hood). I was glad to remove a couple of bushes as it reduces my pruning load.
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The bushes have been removed and I have dug down to my gutter line to add a drain for the tank room.
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The drain has been added, concrete forms set. I manually compacted the dirt the best I could using a variety of methods and added several bags of sand.
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Here I am mixing/pouring the concrete. I laid a thick gauge wire mesh before pouring. I underestimated the amount of concrete I needed so my wife made an emergency run to Lowes for more.
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Here is the finished slab, it's minimum depth is 4 inches near the drain. I have started the framing using 2'x4's and pressure treated for base plate. Walls are bolted into the floor.
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Framing is finished and have now sheathed the shed using OSB. The chimney was not square to the house so things are out of square which makes everything a little more complicated.
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Next added the roof, used 40lb tar paper which I also used for the moisture barrier since I am cheap, then the siding and the door which was a major pain. I had to special order a outward swing exterior door which took two weeks to get from Lowes. I framed the opening according to the specs on the order which ended up being 1 1/2" taller than the door. Lowes offered a refund but little consolation at this point so I added a 1" cedar plate to the floor to raise the door to fit the opening, the trim covered the rest. Finally roofed using presidential TL(a pain for the amature), added the trim, gutter and painted everything. Fortunately got it all done the day before the rains started. The external shed components took two weeks to complete(took several days off work during these two weeks). Had thought I could knock it out labor day weekend(I always underestimate projects).
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The next steps lack a photo record, my wife apparently lost interest at this point. She actually was very interested in me coming back to the family as I was MIA for most of september. I next ran electrical, plumbing, insulated, drywalled, cut the hole in the wall and built the stand, loosely in that order. cutting the hole in the wall caused me the greatest anxiety. Fortunately I was able to talk to Trido who assured me there was little to fear cutting the hole in a non-load bearing wall. I cut out the existing 2X4 framing at the top plate and put in a home made beam(consisting of 5 2X4's screwed and glued together). I put two cripples under each end of beam, both of which I was able to recess into either end of the wall cavity so I did not lose any of my hole for the tank. My tank is 6' long and my room interior after dry walling and framing is just a few inches longer. Fortunately I had the space to spare, by luck not by planning. My elctrical was not so fortunate on one side where I located my outlets just behind the tank, I had assumed the house had 2X6" framing, but found out later it was 2X4, so the tank sat back two inches farther blocking half the outlets(u can see in the pic below I have caulked the inside outlet holes), ended up not needing them as I overprovioned outlets. My stand used pressure treated 4X4's on the back and the existing 2x4 framing in the front. Used 2X6 lumber for top of tank framing with perpindicular 2X4 framing every 16 inches, used lag bolts and screws to interconnect everything. Ended up losing sleep over the stand so added pressure treated 2X4 under the 2X6 for direct load bearing and added a second 2X6 in the back as insurance. I was worried when I moved the tank I would have to drill through the first 2X6 to accomadate overflows, crippling it. Fortunately I did not need to but cheap insurance. Topped it all with 3/4" plywood, painted and caulked everything with exterior paint. Also added a 2X4 on the very back edge which supports a built in 6" edge to the stand that I use to walk on when working in the tank.
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I cut the hole in the wall using a razor blade and drywall hand saw. I cut out the 2X4's using a combination of a drimmel, sawzall and hand saw, I was able to avoid damaging the existing drywall which I was pretty happy about, hate patching drywall. Next came the tank move. My brother gave me a 100 gallon acrylic tank I place on the floor next to the existing tank and setup a little kids pool in the kitchen and laid out towels everywhere in the path.
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The move ended up taking two days even though I was only moving the tank two feet. I spent quite a bit of time trying to devise a way to raise the existing tank 6 inches and slide it back into the hole onto the new stand. Even without water I am sure I still had a good three hundred pounds of rock and sand if not more. Fearing a rock collapse or damaging the tank I proceded with the original plan and removed everything which took longer again than planned. Had tried come by for half the day to assist with the removing everything and moving the tank into its new position. Moved all the rock back into the tank and got it arranged using acrylic dowels and a concrete drill bit to add stability. Moved all the coral and fish from the 100 gallon acrylic into the swimming pool to free up tank which became my new sump. Ended the day at midnight exhausted with all the live stuff in the kids pool much to my kids delight.
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First thing sunday morning started working on the sump, was unhappy sitting the sump on the sloped floor even using plywood and styrofoam sheets, so ran to lowes and bought quick setting concrete patch and quickly pour a flat surface for my sump(wish I would have done this before I was in the middle of my tank move but happy I did it). Got the sump plummed in and started moving corals which was a very tedious process, by the end of the day my hands were covered in super glue and had a decent sized bowl of unintentional frags. It took a couple weeks of tinkering to get things pretty close to where I wanted them. Fish were happy to finally get moved over, no casualties of corals or fish. Was a little tricky keeping my herd of anemones from mingling with the corals, thats why you see the 5 gallon buckets in the pool.
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Did no mention the lighting on the new tank setup. I just used 3 six inch hinges attached to the wall connected to a piece of plywood. I just lift the light up to work on the tank and have a latch on the wall to hold them in place.
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Here are a couple shots of the sump, you can see my kalk topoff water in a 30 gallon tank fed using float switches on the right.
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On the left you can see my 50 gallon drum of ro/di water that I fill the topoff tank with or mix fresh saltwater in for water changes. I have a diy calcium reactor behind the filter sock and also my ER skimmer.
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And finally here a some tank shots.
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I am glad I did the project even though I exceeded both cost and time estimates. I love having a dedicated tank room where everything resides. I do not know if summer will require me to buy a chiller as I have never run one. I installed a 100CFM bathroom fan that is controlled by a thermostat, it comes on around 80. Throughout the entire construction I was concerned about making the room tight and insulated but am now working to add airflow as the room can get hot when the MH's come on. One unintended design feature is my drain lacks a p-trap so cold air comes in through the floor which helps keep things cool. I also added a 4" hole on the right bottom side of the wall into my crawl space, which I installed a computer fan on which is also controlled by the thermostat. The floor drain and crawl space air should stay cool in the summer, may add another hole into the crawl space if I need it in the summer. Thanks for all info and ideas folks have provided on this board that helped me complete my project.
 
Gary thanks for the compliment. It was a huge project, I tell people it took a couple weeks but my wife always corrects me that it was at least 6 weeks. I am not in any of the construction trades but like to pretend on the occassional weekend, I am a network architect for a wireless provider.
 
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wow, looks veryvery cool! Not that it didn't look good before but it looks soooo much better now. Good job on keeping everything alive as well!
 
Looks amazing Steve. What a major project. I hope you feel rewarded each time you look at your tank for many years to come. Think of the blood, sweat and tears that went into this beautiful setup and you can be proud accomplished here. . Speaking of blood... and yes, I guess tears too, I'm glad you decided to use the masonry bit vs. the flat bit.. ha ha... no but seriously, this is tremendous build. From the bottom (cement with a drain) to the top, it looks like a million bucks. congrats!!!!

Hey, how are the hinges on the lights working? are they stiff enough to allow you to flip them up?

Ben
 
Thanks guys for the comments.

Ben the hinges were not as stiff as hoped, I installed them backwards so they do hold the lights off the tank by themselves but not at 90 degrees to the wall so I added a piece of wood on the the outer edge which rests on the top of the tank when it is down, I think one of the back side tank pictures shows it.

Danno- I was thinking of keeping a cat chained to the drain to take care of rodents, hehehe. I never thought about rodents, the drain slats are too small for anything to get through but they could congegrate below and watch me. I will keep an eye out for signs of rodents.
 
Wow! that looks pretty slick. I was acually thinking about putting my 125 in the wall, this kinda helped my decision. Very nice!
 
Very nice, having just finished an in wall tank myself, I can say you are not alone on overshooting the budget both in money and time. But well worth it to have the dedicated fish room.

Great job!
 
Very nice! I really like the swimming pool holding tank. I wish I would have thought about the floor drain when I built my tank room.

Also, If you would quit going into the tank room in the nude, you would think of the cold draft as a good thing. :shock:
 
WOW looks amazing!! You did great work. One question though, is the drain lined plumbed into your house sewer system? If so, without a P Trap, methane gasses can come back up the line, into your fish room. Can be quite dangerous. If not plumbed into your sewer system, no worries!! Very impressive!!! Looks like everything made the transition well. The actual swapping of the livestock can be very stressful, on us humans...lol.
 
Duane great suggestion, I will definitely look into wearing underwear while working on the tank.

My drain line is plumbed into my gutter line around the house which feeds into the the storm water drains on the street which I do not think ties into the sewer so no methane gas(I hope).

I have a question or maybe a poll, most of my tank outlets are GFCI protected(except for the lighting receptacles). Occassionally (a couple times a month) my GFCI will trip when turning my pumps back on after working on the tank, which is normally not a big deal. But once my GFCI tripped after the main return pump kicked on (it is on a 60 minute timer which I wind when feeding). I did not notice the trip so my tank went a night without pumps or heating, fortunately no resulting death but could have been bad if it had gone unnoticed for much longer. I have used a volt meter to check for stray voltage with everything on and found nothing. Does anyone else have this problem? I wish I could find a GFCI that would automatically reset after 20 minutes or so.
 
LOL

Are your GFI's 15 or 20 amp?
When I first set up the 210 I redid my four circuits. For some reason the bath fan cooling stat, on the ACjr circuit kept tripping the GFI when it would turn on. The two were wired completely independant of each other and for the life of me, I couldnt figure out why this stange anomoly was happening. Eventually it stopped happening on its own.

Also, On Jans system the two barracudas were tripping one GFI shortly after start up. I found that they simply drew too many amps for one GFI alone.
 
GFI tripped /grounded ampage reaching to the max level should not be over 6-8 ma,some sensitive one out there is 5ma max,not from drawing amp,,but if CGFI trip is OL ,you can get your CGFI or GFI tester,,and CGFI and GFI shoud be test once ayear.

Hey Steve,,your tank looks very nice sure those blue stick isn't stick anymore become colony now,like the others you have in your tank,great job:)
 
Just browsing and saw this... you are quite inspiring! What a beautiful build-out and nice tank set-up. Way to go. And 6 weeks isn't much for any remodel, never mind such a rebuild. Our remodel (one part of a room) has been in pieces for 3 months with at least a month to go... sigh. Well done!
 
Thanks Dang and Duane for the suggestions. I have two independant GFCI's, one 15 amp and another 20 amp. The 15 amp is for the return pump only (Iwaki 30rxlt). The 20 amp protects everything else, I should probably replace the 20 amp as it is a few years old. I most often trip the 20 amp just by turning off/on 3 Koralia4's on a power strip(not much draw there). Although the tripping seems to have diminished but still makes me nervous. To be safe I should probably add another independant GFCI for the heaters. Still would like to see someone invent a automatic resetting GFCI.
 
I would concur with replacing the GFI. You may also experience issues if you have additional outlets after the GFI. I know this is acceptable code in most areas, but may cause a trip. FWIW, code would rather see a "trip" than an ongoing fault.
 

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