Good husbandry for SPS tanks.

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Holy Cow Brad great thread, good comments to!!

Couple of quickies. One on flow. When talking about flow in your tank I think the best way to approach it is not by how much do you have but more on how effective it is. Thier are certain goals that folks need to concentrate on when looking to get the right flow in the tank. With flow you want to keep food (detritus/waste or what ever) in the water column and available (as in floating around the corals) it doesnt take alot of flow to do this, just little bits in the right place. For folks with BB tanks it becomes a little more of a requirement. Now you are still trying to do the above but also want the food not to settle out, so more attention muct be given to lower end flow. On keeping detritus and such out of a coral (stag or cup) its pretty hard to do, I know I cant for all my corals, now this is important because that food on the coral will hurt it, the bacteria begin to reduce it and keep going into the hurt part of the tissue, this causes bacterial infections and can lead to rtn. Two things fix this, one is acro crabs and the other is blowing them off with a PH.
Second thing is on lighting. MOST all MH lighting will grow coral no problem.It does not take much light energy to start a photosynthetic cycle. For color it is just a matter of lining up the color bulb with the color/pigment that you want to have that coral turn. I think folks should spend more time on that then on the out put of every bulb and ballast.

Brad I hear you on the reflectors, I knew it was a big factor, but not mearly as much as it truely is.


Mike
 
For me the hardest part of learning this hobby is to leave the thing alone. Everyone preaches water quality and chemical balance. Obviously these are important but you cant fix anything overnight. Adding gizmos and chemicals is only going to make things worse.

Don
 
Brad, you really need a new Avatar........you in the white cap always makes me think of a Mental ward and "One flew over the Cuckoo nest"........

nothing personal.....grins.


oh yeah, SPS.......definately lots of water flow, I don't calc react as ESV Bi-ionic 2 part additive is what makes my Coraline purple, and I've grown "some" SPS under 96 watt PC, and while I also have 250 watt 10 MH bulbs on different tanks, you don't always need GOBS of light depending on tank size.
 
Did someone say links? LOL

Here are a couple of threads for more information:

Let's Talk About ~Lighting~
Let's Talk About ~Reef Chemistry~
Magnesium
Flow and/or Circulation

Also, I wanted to comment about polyp extension (I think someone mentioned it earlier). There are a number of reasons for polyp extension, so I don't feel so much emphasis should be placed on this.

On coral placement, knowing the general area of where the coral originates will help determine placement. Of course, as 64Ivy pointed out....some corals can have sweepers, and would need to be placed accordingly.

Good topic!
 
Charlie- I tried baking soda for a while but my Ca was too high still and wouldn't come down.

Reed- great info there. I rely on water changes for my Mag but that can change.

John- good point, There are so so fish and pest that I worry about. I think quarantining is very important.

Kevin- Imagine that Italian Tank

Don- I know what you are saying, It probably doesn't help knowing that you can make anything.

Rocky- That is my mug shot with my G-tech hat. Go Will The Thrill Bynum

Nikki- Way to link. Your going to end up with too many links and go crazy searching through them.
 
Another thought I had (not sure if this can be considered husbandry), are the effects of caulerpas on a SPS system (also LPS and softies mixed with SPS). I suppose the husbandry aspect would be to keep the caulerpas from going sexual if you desire to use them.

Brad...fortunately for me, the useless knowledge portion of my brain has stored where all these threads and articles are (I think my fun facts are dwindling though). Doesn't take me too much time to track one down.
 
Adding gizmos and chemicals is only going to make things worse.
Does this mean I need to take this off.
Pro-X225.jpg
;) J/K


This is a great thread. I'm very interested in getting into SPS. I've stopped adding to my 260 because I want to fill it with SPS. As soon as I get my trates inline (5ppm) I'm going to give it a shot. I'll be adding a 65gal refugium soon. I hope that helps.
 
It is odd that you continually have a problem with nitrates in a tank that big. They have to be coming from somewhere. Eliminate the possibilities.
 
I would look at the rock or sand as a culprit. Other than that it goes back to flow. The food goes in the tank and the fish eat it. Then they poop and it floats around. If your system is efficient then It will reach the skimmer and the majority will be removed and the rest will be broken down by the natural filtration. Now if the natural filtration is clogged(cant think of a better word) or it doesn't get to the skimmer than you will have a problem.
 
oldsaint said:
I'm not sure about continually problems. I don't think I solved them initially. I'm trying to eliminate them. I'm hoping a fug will help. The tank is only 10 months old.
I think adding the fuge will help with your nitrates, althought at only 5ppm, you are really not that bad off. Trying to keep a system that has 0 nitrates is a really tough thing to do, and I really doubt that any of us can say we have 0 nitrates 75% of the time. JMO :D
 
OK - I'm really really really gullible. I completely missed the j/k part of Old Saint's post!!!! I had this whole post planned out about the Eco-Aqualizer and why it should be taken off....ready with some links, then wondered if Old Saint was kidding. Scrolled to the post...sure enough there is a wink and j/k. :lol:
 
Yeh but did you watch the video and read the customer feed back. ;)
there is a wink and j/k
:shock: I guess I could of made that bigger. :lol:

Here's my husbandry

Eqiupment: Main pump is little giant 5.5, Euro reef skimmer 12-1. Gamma UVs 120w, 2 phosban reators, 1/3hp Chilller, tunze topoff with osmolator, 2 400w MH 14k aquaconnects, 880w VHOs
Tank: 260 gal 96"x24"x26"
Sump: 40"x19"x16" I've got about 30 gals in it.
Overflows: One is 6"x8" with 1.5" pipe. Instead of drilling another hole I added an overflow box with 2 1.25 pipes.
I have 280lbs of LS aragonite 0.5-1.7mm and 270lbs of Tonga deepwater LR.

Water passes thru 3 white micron filter socks then to the skimmer and then back to the tank. The UV, chiller and phosban reators are all closed loops on the sump.
I feed once a day 1/2 tsp of ocean nutrition formula 2 soaked in selcon wait until it's all gone and then another 1/2 tsp. I do have 2 heavy eaters/poopers, a Naso Lituratus and vlamingii. Twice a week I feed my elegance and fungia a few small pieces of silversides also soaked in selcon. I recently added 4 clams and since started 3 times a week adding 2.5oz of Dt's live phytoplankton.
Other inhabitance Euphyilla glagrescens & divisa,Hydnophora rigida,Various Zoas,lobophytum pauciflorum, and some encrusting montiporas I'm guessing are efforescens and spumosa that are growing like crazy.
Flow is about 1600gph from the main returns. They are located diagonal from each other in the corners. At the end facing the overflows is a tunze stream 6100 rated at 3175gph. So I should have around 4700 gph flow.

Sun: Change filter socks. Clean the glass, skimmer cup, wipe down all the bulbs. Blow off the rocks. Do a water change. I was doing 30 gals but have increased it to 55 gals trying to get the trates down. Also I was syphoning/vacuuming the sand during the water change. Not sure if I should continue to do that. I have a small problem with red cyno on the sand in one area of the tank.
Wed and Fri: I change the filter socks again
Once a month I pull the skimmer out and clean the base and motors.
I test once a week for Sal,Ph,alk,Ca,NO2,NO3,PO4. Once a month ORP,Mg,I2,Sr. I keep a log of all the results. All test kits are Salifert except for Ph and ORP are probes
Last results: Temp 79, sal 1.025, pH 8.4, Alk 3.66, Ca 420, NO2 .01, NO3 5, Mg 1290, PO4 .015, I2 .06, Sr 4, ORP 360

What am I doing wrong or what should I be doing differently?
 
The filter socks could be contributing to your NO3. If they get some build up in them and start to break down before you change them, they will start to put NO3 into the tank.
 
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