I jumped the gun, questions on best path from here

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Skawt

Active member
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
42
Location
Bonney Lake/Buckley WA
I wanted to setup a small marine tank to see if we would be able to handle it before making the step to a large setup that would involve a lot of time and expense. I was able to find an Eclipse II 29 gallon setup in great condition off Craigslist and got it setup (Had to buy a new heater, picked up a 200watt from WalMart).

After getting the salt and temp set (1.026 and 78F) we added 2 fish, an ocellaris clownfish and a scooter blenny. Everything looks perfect at the moment but I have started (too late it seems) to read about the cycle the tank is going to go through over the next few months and would like to know what I can do to help the fish survive without too much discomfort.

I understand that I will need to do frequent water changes to keep the ammonia down, what about the fluctuation in temperature all the time? As far as flow in the tank I believe the pump on the Eclipse II is 200gph which seems to provide a nice current in the tank, should I add anything to the filter setup (Protein skimmer is what I am thinking but where would it go?)

The tank came with some test strips but they look like they do not show ammonia, Nitrates and nitites are zero at the moment which I assume is because the water does not have anything in it yet to convert whatever ammonia is starting to accumulate. I am going to get an ammonia test kit today. Can I use the Seachem Ammonia Alert as well?

Here's a pic of the tank and the filter:
tank.jpg


filter.jpg
 
Make sure the water for the change is the same temp, ph and salinity as the tank. Keep the feeding to a minimum, this means you need to ensure a quality balanced diet and that all of it gets consumed.
 
Don't feel alone I personally purchased a tank just like this a little over 8 months ago. I would look into someone who can possibly harbor these two fish for you for about a month and a half to 2 months. The tank will be cycling, and there are definately ways to get it going without fish, plus a clownfish is a damsel, so there is a possibility that if it does survive the cycle he could potentially become overly aggressive to new tankmates.

Instead of buying just an ammonia test kit look into a basic marine kit with ammonia, ph, nitrite, and nitrates to start, along with a hydrometer to keep your salinity checked. This will give you the tools to watch your cycle along its path from ammonia-nitrite-nitrate. Also letting you know when (if you hopefully can find a safe home) you can put your fish back into their tank.

As for a protein skimmer my dad is using this exact same eclipse system on a 29 gallon tank. We have modified to top of the lid to accomodate a Seaclear protein skimmer. I know that they are not rated the best but it is pulling off some decent skimmate, and being rated at 65 gallons on a 30 seems to be doing well. I will try and get some pictures on tonight of how we cut it, just to give you an idea of some options. Also we have added a Rena canister filter to the tank, which adds additional flow. If you were looking for additional flow to cross the two outputs from the eclipse hood. Koralia makes a great inexpensive powerhead in the nano size that moves a decent amount of water.

Lastly with the eclipse hood just be aware of your nitrate levels after your cycle has completed. The filter pad at the top and the biowheel have the potential to become nitrate farms if not watched. We replace the pad piece of the filter about ever 2-3 weeks and it keeps the water really clear.

So if you have any questions about your particular setup please feel free to ask as I am very familiar with your particular challenges or potential challenges, but believe me, the enclosed nature of this setup gives it a great sleek look that is fairly hard to duplicate.


P.S If you are ever looking for add additional light past the two 18w bulbs that are in the front. There is an about 60 dollar retrofit kit made just for the eclipse hood that adds two pc bulbs in place of the existing light, and lets you keep the hood and bulb cover in place.
 
I forgot to add that a little bit of a fluctuation during the day of temperature is not bad as long as it stay within the recommended range. It simulates a change in temperature of the ocean during the day and the fish will do just fine with the shift.
 
Completely agree with Mike.
If you purchased the fish from an LFS, you could see about taking the fish back. They may or may not give you full return price, but at least you won't be sitting on potentially two dead fish. I've always thought that it's not a good idea to do water changes during the cycling process; just let the water chemisty run its course.
If the aquarium was just set up in the past couple of days you shouldn't have any ammonia to measure yet. With an aquarium that small, the cycle shouldn't take too long to start rolling. I'd wait a week or two before starting to measure for ammonia, nitates, and nitrites. API makes pretty good test kits (IMO) and they are readily available at petsmart/petco.
 
You may also see if there are any other reefers in your general area to take your fish for a couple of months. You don't want to start off with losing live stock. Please make sure that they have a quarantine tank set up as you do not want to be responsible for introducing ick or other diseases into their main system.
 
Please make sure that they have a quarantine tank set up as you do not want to be responsible for introducing ick or other diseases into their main system.

His Nano is basically a per the book QT set-up except for the gravel. If he continues to use it as a QT until the fish are confirmed disease free, at that time he could loan the fish to another's display or simply start to add live rock to his own.

Either way, this tank will need to cycle and his fish will need QT. If he does his reading and follows the steps, all could be fine.
 
skawt,

where are you located?

maybe you can get in touch with some local's




I've found that everyone I've met from here has been very helpful
 
I live out in the Bonney Lake/Buckley area. I know this is a reef forum but it looks like there are a lot of Washington area members.

We are mostly looking to keep the tank fish but I'm sure we'll end up with a few other critters (at least a cleaning crew eventually). We will really need help once we make the decision to get a larger setup.
 
Well I work from home and now have to work most of the weekend to make up for all the time I have been spending on my tank. :)

I'm not seeing any ammonia yet (Day 4), I added the live rock and have been adding Nitromax Marine to try and jumpstart the bacteria growth.
 
I'd suggest getting rid of all the previous rocks you had in there and placing only established live rock, then keep up on additives and everything should cycle nicely. The rock I see in the first picture looks like freshwater river rock which is not porous and sometimes can add unseen problems to your tank so start right even if you start with nothing. Main additives I use although I would prefer a calcium reactor are liquid calcium, coral-vite, micro-vert food (not needed for you yet), Molybedium and strontium, and iodine. I would also agree the a skimmer is needed once your bio-load becomes larger or if you plan on doing any corals. You may want to keep a fish such as a cheap damsel in there to feed and increase ammonia levels if you end up having someone else take care of fish. Finally stop worrying about your tank and let it cycle, patience is important in the first two months, though if you want to be extremely involved do reading on proven methods to help the tanks cycle faster and you may be able to help your fish survive the cycle or at least get through it to the fun part faster.
 
I didnt see anyone mention anything on the scooter. Watch him closely as from my experience, they are exclusivly pod eaters.
 
Getting a bunch of algae growth now (brown, diatom?)

Ammonia is at 0, nitrate 20, nitrite .5, ph 8.2

I am wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the substrate with sand at some point (I assume after the tank has stabilized), right now I have a mix of crushed coral and all kinds of small shells.
 
Im still a newbie 7 months later but Ive learned:
1. 20% weekly changes..or one gallon a day changes are good. For nano's after you wait month or two.
2. Top off only with RO/DI 40 cents a gallon at Albertsons
3. And use cured live rock
4. crushed coral or live sand

Then watch the algae blooms and other fun things as you cycle =). Personally I would wait a month or even two before introducing a fish. Then cleaners.

I would not add chemicals of any sort the tanks very new..I think tossing a teeny weeny bit of flake food once a few days to produce the waste needed for cycling is all you should be doing.

And yes if you can...Get the best biggest protein skimmer you can get for it..within reason ofcourse.

Anarchy has the best advise

patience is important in the first two months
 
Getting a bunch of algae growth now (brown, diatom?)

Ammonia is at 0, nitrate 20, nitrite .5, ph 8.2

I am wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the substrate with sand at some point (I assume after the tank has stabilized), right now I have a mix of crushed coral and all kinds of small shells.

The blooming is normal..let it take its course. And if you still have those fish in there...personally I would change one gallon a day of the water for the first month.

it will lighten the blow on your fish with the cycling some..
 
I didnt see anyone mention anything on the scooter. Watch him closely as from my experience, they are exclusivly pod eaters.

yes in the long run they need pods..but they also chomp on algae to..but they do need pods in the long hall.

You are thinking of there relatives the Mandarins...they are only pod eaters. OMG i Just noticed.

This tanks a baby....just born! WoW get scooty to the shop...save his life... Your tank MUST be established before you put this guy in there. IF the same store sold it to you knowing your tank is new...I personally would change stores.
 
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