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ReefShack

sps junkie
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
45
Location
Snohomish, WA
I'll be plumbing my new 150 gal sps tank this weekend and would like to run my ideas past everyone. I've got an Amp Master 4700 that I'm hooking up as a closed loop that will be exiting out of a colum of four 1.5" bulkeads on either side of the tank back. A motorized ball valve will alternate the flow between the two sets every forty seconds or so. My thinking here is that the larger outlets will keep the exiting water velocity down to a reasonable level and yet maintain the movement of a large volume of water. The lowest bulkhead I was thinking of running into a 1" spraybar along the back, behind the rockwork, to aid in detritus removal. Let me know what you think. Twenty heads are better than one! :)
 
if i am reading your pic correctly. the inlets look like they will be behind the LR. this could make cleaning the strainers a little difficult. you might want to move this out from behind the LR.

G~
 
ball valves

that's a pretty cool design... what are the biggest advantages to running a closed loop system? i hear about them all the time but don't know why people use them. is it to add another pump and circulation in addition to the sump pump? also, where did you find the motorized ball valve?
 
My only concern would be that you would get very little flow out of 4 1.5" outlets. I have an AM3K with 3 1" outlets and I get reasonable flow (low velocity like you are talking about). You might want to try this in the bath tub or another tank before drilling your tank for it. Just a thought.

I'd like to hear how it works out though. Good luck with the project.
-Reed
 
closed loops are the best way to add additional flow to an aquarium. if you try and add more flow using more pumps in the sump you will run into problems getting enough flow out of the overflows. this will lead to a greater risk of flooding. this will also lead to more water noise in the system. using closed loops you are adding flow without these risks, unless the closed loop leaks. :) there are many different ways of adding closed loops. the best is the drilled method like is being shown here. less plumbing in the tank being visible. the drawbacks being, you need to decided before hand where and how many you want. lots of forethought is needed. the other is an over the side version. i have two of these. they add more plumbing into the tank. not as clean looking.

G~
 
Good response G~

I run a closed loop to get additional circulation. I run an Iwaki 40RLT from the sump to the tank. Probably at most 500 gph. Any more up there and the overflow gets a bit too overpowered and the sump gets too many micro bubbles.

I put an Ampmaster 3000 to get about 2500 gph additional flow circulating in the tank. I do it this way to keep powerheads out of the tank and the asociated mounting hardware and power cords.

If I had a large tank, I would likely consider Turbelle Streams to get additional flow if I didn't want to drill or worry about an external pump on the floor.

Ron, your design is interesting. I worry about the ball valve switching between two sets of inlets on the inlet side of the pump. Maybe switch only two of the inlets? That way you always have a set of inlets pulling in water unrestricted?
 
Looks like an interesting design. My only concern (whether founded in reality or not) would be drilling 8 holes that close to the tank's side seam.
 
adding closed loop...

Jazz,

Also some people add closed loop to add flow without adding submersible pumps... to some submersible pumps is a big no no because of aesthetics...

Reefshack,

if you could design it in such a way that the intake of the closed loop go even lower so you could pick up those stuborn detritus... This way you can make sure that they are always in motion and in time grabbed by the overflow... Sometimes spraybar is not enough specially if these are being shared within the closed loop...

You can lower these intakes by drilling it lower or if its not possible... try to put an elbow facing downwards and then the intake strainers.

Oops! I forgot to ask if your doing barebottom or with DSB... if with DSB... ignore the elbow approach.
 
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go ahead with the 1.5" outlets. After doing some testing I found the flow to be very good, the surface of the water looks like a rolling boil! Chuck, I'm not actually switching the inlets, both are plumbed straight into the pump intake so there's no trouble there. JazznReef, I got the ball valve from an outfit down in south Seattle but I can't recall their name. The ball valve is manufactured by Hayward and if you go to their website you can fine the dealers in the area. Paul, I was a bit concerned with drilling that size hole near the edges as well, but since it is 3/4" acrylic I figured I'd be alright and it seems to have worked out. Cesar, I'm going to run a bare bottom tank but I'm not sure that I want too much detritus to run through the pump as I don't know if that would harm the pump or not. Either way, the bottom inlet is only about 4" off the tank floor in the redesign. I put tap water in a couple days ago and everything seems to be working fine. I found a couple leaks but fixed those up. I guess it's time to start filling it with RO! :) It's about time! I've been working on the design for five months now.
 
Looking good Ron. I wouldnt worry about the detritus and the pump, Mine sucks and and spits it out all the time and I have seen zero wear from it after inspecting the pump after a year of that. Keep the pics coming its neat to see it a ll come togehter like it is.


Mike
 
<<Maybe an image would help...>>

Apparently images were posted but I don't see them. Please clue me in how where to view them.

Thanks
 

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