In Wall - going for it! - seeking your ideas/feedback/advice

[SRV]

sweet thx.

here is some product info on it - it's almost perfect size.

"The Heavylift allows you to load and lift heavy items to the ceiling (up to 12 ft high) without using a ladder. Simply raise and lower the 4’ x 4’ storage platform with the hand crank provided.

It provides easy storage for file boxes, outdoor furniture, lawn mowers, big tools, snow throwers, large toys, canoes, kayaks, holiday ornaments, tires, ladders lumber, third row car seats and just about anything else you can imagine. You can also use the Heavylift to store lightweight truck canopies or convertible car tops.

Includes heavy-duty steel support beams, 4’ x 4’ platform, winding axle, vinyl coated steel cable, hand crank and all mounting hardware
Max Capacity: Up to 250 lbs.
(of evenly distributed static weight)
For use with ceilings 8-12 ft. high, will lower 8 ft. from the ceiling
Tools required for installation: Stud finder, wrench, drill/driver, pencil and 4’ straight edge or chalk line
Assembly required-click here for installation instructions
Dimensions: 4' x 4'
Weight: 66 lbs.
Warranty: 1-year on all parts "

The only thing with this is that I'd have to mount the lamps underneath of it so that they were hanging underneath. that means I couldn't have them all flush. If I did a DIY version, I could have it so that all bulbs were flush. I'd love to see how Tracy hooked his up though. Parts/labor/convenience all factored in, this seems like a good & simple option.

Ben
If you plan on using the metal rack (I didn't) you should be able to cut out the areas that the MH's and VHO's will be and still have the stability you need. We're not talking a lot of weight and that would get you flush. I will try to send you some pics this weekend of what I did, but keep in mind that mine is in the living room and was completed as finished furniture. Need to keep the significant other happy.
Rick

 

[class clown]

OH wow - so the rack is removable, ehh? now that I think about it, of course it is. there is no way they'll ship that thing fully assembled. heck yeah, Well, there's our solution right there.

Rick - can't wait for some pics here

So you said your hood is (30" x 96" x 21" H). The dimensions Ideally I'd like my light rack to be are 48" by 36". Neither of these sizes mentioned above are the 48" by 48" that the product comes in. Did you mod yours? if so, how easy was it?

 

[trido]

What's all this slow Wye, sanitary T talk about anyway?

When we tie in to the old drain pipe we will need to cut out about three feet of the existing pipe and use a slow wye, new 3" pipe and two steel reinforced rubber couplers to do the tie in. We want to do a clean and professional job so that when you sell the house you can claim the drain is there for a potential wash basin sink. It will all be black ABS pipe like the rest of the house right up to a conversion coupler after the ball valve.

 

[SRV]

OH wow - so the rack is removable, ehh? now that I think about it, of course it is. there is no way they'll ship that thing fully assembled. heck yeah, Well, there's our solution right there.

Rick - can't wait for some pics here

So you said your hood is (30" x 96" x 21" H). The dimensions Ideally I'd like my light rack to be are 48" by 36". Neither of these sizes mentioned above are the 48" by 48" that the product comes in. Did you mod yours? if so, how easy was it?

Ben
The platform comes in three 16" X 48" sections which bolt together. Don't know how much you work with metal, but you could eliminate the middle section and weld/tap/bolt two pieces of 3' X 3/4" angle or flat bar to the ends of the 16" sections to give you your 36" X 48" platform. I'm a wood butcher, so I would toss the metal platform, buy a piece of 3/4" HDO marine ply and cut to 3' X 4', then you could route out the exact openings needed with a rabbit bit to support your mh's and vho's.

Refering back to the lift itself, the easiest way to mod it would be to cut one foot off from the 1" sq. tube. That would put the crank on the back of your tank. If you want the crank on the side of your tank, you will have to cut down all four of the pulley brackets. Pretty easy, just a hack saw. In my case, I cut the pulley brackets down to get my 30" width and added 4' to the tube to extend the length for my 96" length, putting the crank on the end of my tank.

One other thing, if you use the plywood, cut a matching panel for the ceiling and lag it to the joists, bolt the bracket to the ceiling panel, then your not trying to make the bracket match up with your framing. You will be able to line the platform panel up with the ceiling panel right over your tank. Gotta do something with the left over plywood.

Hope this helps!

 

[vwmoneypit]

go to a hvac supplier and get hangers for commercial building ducts. tie into the studs and then make a crossbar out of whatnot that u can slide the lights backandforth on ect !

Sketchup by google - free downloads on the web

Yep - planning on hanging. the only thing is that I have duct work right above where mine will go, so I don't think I can hang from the ceiling unless I want to hang it from the duct work (probably not the best idea). I'll have to create some sort of 2*4 arms around the duct work that I can hang it from. not a big deal.

 

[NC2WA]

Ben,

What is your plan for heating and cooling the tank???
Kirk

 

[class clown]

good question Kirk - one we haven't touched yet.

For heat, I have:

(3) 250w heater on hand
(1) 300w heater on hand

that should do me, shouldn't it?


For cooling, I have:

1) 1/10 HP Pacific coast chiller (I know, underpowered)
2) placement of the display & sump in the garage
3) purchasing Lumenarc IIIs with the vent hole's looped together with dryer vent pipe & 1 fan pushing air, and 1 pulling air.
4) A controller that will cut my halides off if the tank get's too hot during the day

Still - I wish I had a bigger chiller, but it's just not in the budget right now.

 

[class clown]

go to a hvac supplier and get hangers for commercial building ducts. tie into the studs and then make a crossbar out of whatnot that u can slide the lights backandforth on ect !

I'm having trouble picturing this moneypit. I did a search for those hangers. are these what you're talking about? how would this look? would it by nice and neat?

 

[NC2WA]

A controller and chiller is something that I will prolly have to research and/or consider.

<sigh>
Kirk

 

[class clown]

Hope this helps!

It did - thank you. It sounds like a great solution with a nice clean install for a decent price all said and done.

Duane came over tonight to chat and he had a great idea- mount 1 or two of the T5's in the wall pocket at the front of the tank.

 

[trido]

You'd better quit posting now and start ordering.

 

[class clown]

You'd better quit posting now and start ordering.

yeah, yeah.. second guessing, second guessing... oh man.. I just want to make sure I ge this right - no sense in doing it wrong as i know I'll kick myself forever. :shock:

newest second thought - 1 inline 4" fan instead of my two bathroom fans. It looks like it'd have to be hard wired though - hopefully that's not too difficult. $26.99 from smarthome

I have an existing open 8" vent pipe from my garage pointed outside. I could tap into this (see arrow) and use a 8" to 6" hvac reducer and a 6" to 4" hvac reducer to tie it into the air ducting that will have between my lumenarcs.

good idea?

Pic showing my existing 8" air vent leading from garage to outside:

I'd use a couple of these reducers to tie the dryer line to the vent?

 

[trido]

Thats the exactly like the inlines we just installed. Easy enough.

 

[class clown]

Saaaaweeet!

I just finished ordering up a bunch of stuff!!!

 

[class clown]

Should I just get the 8" inline fan for $8 more? I would be able to pull more air through the vent pip, right? or because the smallest portion of the tube is 4", does it not make any difference? I'm not sure how vent pipes/air work.

is 8" my best bet? it's only $35.99

 

[szidls]

Hey ben that's not an exhaust duct tied to the furnace. It's (I believe) a fresh air intake. Don't exhaust your luminarcs to it. It's a bad idea to draw any air from the garage and tie it to your furnace. Don't want to suck the gas pipe of your cars into the house. You need to add a separate vent to the outside for the tank heat and humidity.
Scott

 

[szidls]

Hey at second look it looks like the vent for the gas flue. Not sure if you should tie in your exhaust duct to it?
Scott

 

[class clown]

Hey ben that's not an exhaust duct tied to the furnace. It's (I believe) a fresh air intake. Don't exhaust your luminarcs to it. It's a bad idea to draw any air from the garage and tie it to your furnace. Don't want to suck the gas pipe of your cars into the house. You need to add a separate vent to the outside for the tank heat and humidity.
Scott

I know next to nothing about vent pipes, hvac, and eletricity. Of course, these are my two last components to plan. Scott - it's an open vent that leads to the outside. It's an 8 inch whole. Here's a better picture.

If I had air blowing out of here, would that create a problem? If it's a exhaust vent, wouldn't having some air blowing out of it help?????

I'm definately going to need your guys input on this. I feel like a fish out of water.

 

[trido]

Code requires a certain amount of cubic foot of room air requirements for the natural gas furnace and hot water heater. The amount of cubit feet required depends on the BTUs' of the furnace etc. If the mechanical room doesnt have adequate cubic footage it is necessary to vent it, allowing X amount of cubic inches of fresh air into the room. Usually this is done with one vent a foot from the ceiling (shown on the pic) and one vent a foot from the floor. Not seen anywhere in the garage. I would assume the air leaks around the garage door are thought to make up the low venting in this case.


IMO putting a fan on the vent shown will only enhance the fresh air intake of the garage while it is on. I doubt that while the fan is off at night that it will be blocking the ducting enough to prohibit any draft that would arise from the furnace needing more fresh air to burn properly. Personally, I belive the garage itself is likely large enough to supply the furnace and water heater with enough air. If is that big of a worry, a quick call to city hall will answer the question of required minimum cubic footage for your furnace. Just be sure to know how many BTUs' it is.

Also, Ben may have forgot to mention. I am a residential remodeling contractor. I have been to his house reviewing the framing, plumbing and electrical aspects of his tank build twice now. Not that I know everything. I really dont know much.


Just dont tell him that. Ooops.

 

[class clown]

I am a residential remodeling contractor. I have been to his house reviewing the framing, plumbing and electrical aspects of his tank build twice now. Not that I know everything. I really dont know much.
Just dont tell him that. Ooops.

"don't know much".. uhhh huuh ... yeah right ... wouldn't buy that for a second. Seriously Duane - this project would be half as far along as it is w/ out your expertise, guidance, and all around good ideas. Can't tell you how much I appreciate your help man - thx.

Also - just a quick thank you to everyone else that's been jumping in here on the thread, helping me out with ideas, stopping me from making big mistakes, and even helping contribute extra parts and such. I hope you all can make it to the BBque when all is said and done.