tat2z_21
tat2z_21
Hey Mojo, what was the spectral range of the violets that you are putting on there.
Lets talk LED's..............
- Thread starter Somethings Fishy
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Tat I was a little wary of the violets originally but I softened up a bit after seeing them in play for a while. They peek at 420 and fall off completely at around 430. I would say for those that use them to restrict the amount used, so on my fixture of 220 leds their are only 10.
Mojo
Mojo
tat2z_21
tat2z_21
So then it is a correct statement to say that the UV area of 400 to 430 is useful for coral coloration. Or are you using this for another purpose, Because I know that a while ago it was a no go when I told you that I was implementing them into my system.
Tat their was a question as to if it was going to help coloration, as most coral pigments that deal with UV zone are clear, so no real coloring effect. We have been taking individual LEDs and running them singularly right up against the coral (1/2 inch off) and under water. When the testing was done for this led it was determined that the color range specified by the manufacture was not correct (but still around 420 to 430 spike) So not really what we would call UV and thus added another wave in the zone to excite pigments in the coral tissue.
So yep I will assume the position and allow you one kick........with your left foot..........and while leaning backwards???
Mike
Unfortunately I can't use the search terms "LED" or "PAR" on reeffrontiers search engine. I have started reading your 12 page LED build thread though, so hopefully I will find some more info in there.
tat2z_21
tat2z_21
No kicking necessary, just trying to figure this out. I believe that alot of people with ideas on one subject is better then one person alone. I do have to say that I installed the 420nM LEDs on my system and my forest of XENIA disappeared pretty much over night. Not sure if it is related or not but definitley made me think they caused it. I might have had to many (14 over a 180) with to much intensity.
MC Lighting
A Little Overboard!
so the one thing I still cannot understand (and please understand I am looking at it from a technical stance which does not necessarly mean it applies to fish lol) If you are using a controller to dim the LED's which means you are using PWM that means the LED is only on for a fraction of a second and that means you are not putting but a fraction of energy into the water so how can one compare these to something like a MH or T5 which is constant current? I wonder if the PAR readings are using a meter that is fast enough to see this or is it an averaging effect? Not poo pooing LED's as I love them and have been using them long before anyone else adopted them but I still am skeptical about the real numbers behind these systems....
MC- the dimming that alot of us use is straight 0-10v dc. Thus the leds are getting a constant voltage for dimming
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MC Lighting
A Little Overboard!
interesting because all of the commercial units I have seen so far are definitly PWM...
tat2z_21
tat2z_21
I do believe that when you are using a digital input for the drivers it should be a PWM, the reason I say this is that there is a lof of differences between the digital and analog (using a potentiometer) People are using the regular old "D" drivers in conjunction with the controllers, however I am not certain that they are getting the full capability of the dimming circuits, and not sure of what long term use like this causes to either the controller or the driver. It will not effect the LED's but may significantly impact the functionality of the controller. Going from digital to analog and back to digital. I know that it states that it is 0-10vdc, however the PWM is also a 0 to 10vdc system with a duty cycle that allows a true 0 - 100 percent.
