Light lift

[DonW]

That wold be a nice feature to open the door to help cooling & air circulation. The fans placement would probably help determine if you need to have them go up & down also, I'd probably want them on always but with the temp. control like on the Ice-cap fans, I liked the way it worked for me.

Mine shut down if the heaters come on, which is very rare. I may just have them lift with the lights just to get them out of the way. Right now they just sit on the back of the tank. I knock them over on a regular basis so getting them out of the way may be nice.

Don

 

[dragoneggs]

Hmmm... now you have me thinking how I might make a lift for my island canopy. All mechanism would have to be internal or somehow aestetically nice enough to exist mounted to the ceiling above. Ceiling is 28in above top of canopy. The canopy roof is nested inside my frame sides resting and on supports on the four corners. All of the components are mounted to the canopy roof. I could mount tracks to the corner blocks (HDPE) and use a linear actuator. My initial problem is how do I mount the actuator so it lifts evenly. I am afraid if it is not pushing on the center of gravity it will have operating problems.

With an internal lift using a linear actuator, I think I would be able to raise it about 6 to 9in max depending on actuator collapsed length. This would definitely make for much more access through my 14in high door openings on all sides. The openings are partially blocked by my 48in actinics running on the long sides and the ballast shelves on the short sides.

View of short side (no door)

Partial view of long side (no door)

One end temporarily propped up

Comments welcome!

 

[dragoneggs]

Don,

How are you mounting the linear actuator so you are pushing up with a big eccentric load? Are you using two? I was thinking of mounting four guide tracks in the corners and two linear actuators in the middle of both the long side against the divider stile.

My question is whether two will remain in sync or whether I need to worry about different travel speeds?

Mark

 

[DonW]

Don,

How are you mounting the linear actuator so you are pushing up with a big eccentric load? Are you using two? I was thinking of mounting four guide tracks in the corners and two linear actuators in the middle of both the long side against the divider stile.

My question is whether two will remain in sync or whether I need to worry about different travel speeds?

Mark

Mine is pretty low tech since I really have no hood. It just travels up the wall. The cabinet will be wall and ceiling mounted. Let me think about yours for a bit. I'm sure I can come up with something with only one actuator. I'll be done this week-end and will post some pics.

Don

 

[DonW]

Don,

How are you mounting the linear actuator so you are pushing up with a big eccentric load? Are you using two? I was thinking of mounting four guide tracks in the corners and two linear actuators in the middle of both the long side against the divider stile.

My question is whether two will remain in sync or whether I need to worry about different travel speeds?

Mark

Is there a attic above the tank? Where do all the wires for your hood go?

 

[DonW]

Ill get it wired properly tomarrow. Works great!

 

[dragoneggs]

Hey looks good.

My power is coming up through the crawl space and up through a false overflow in the center of my tank. One 20amp circuit which will plug into an 8 outlet switchable power supply. Five are taken with two 250MH icecap ballasts, one icecap 660 ballast for the actinics, and two icecap fans. I also really want to install timers or some automated control of lights, fans, pumps, etc. Pumps are installed on 2nd 20amp circuit located in tank stand base.

No attic above... a bathroom is above on 2nd floor. I really want canopy lift to be self contained.

Mark

 

[DonW]

Hey looks good.

My power is coming up through the crawl space and up through a false overflow in the center of my tank. One 20amp circuit which will plug into an 8 outlet switchable power supply. Five are taken with two 250MH icecap ballasts, one icecap 660 ballast for the actinics, and two icecap fans. I also really want to install timers or some automated control of lights, fans, pumps, etc. Pumps are installed on 2nd 20amp circuit located in tank stand base.

No attic above... a bathroom is above on 2nd floor. I really want canopy lift to be self contained.

Mark

Do you have a free two x two inch space in the false over flow.

Don

 

[dragoneggs]

Ah ha! The tank is in the final design stages now and yet to be fabbed. I think I know where you are going. The tank and canopy roof are both 54in L by 36in W. I was figuring a eurobrace across the middle with two large cutouts and somehow work in the false overflow up through the rectangular overflow in the very center of the tank. I don't know exactly what the design of the interface between the overflow and eurobrace will be to accomodate maintanence, clean out.

Are you suggesting that the actuator be located dead center on the tank? Supported by the acrylic somehow?

 

[DonW]

Ah ha! The tank is in the final design stages now and yet to be fabbed. I think I know where you are going. The tank and canopy roof are both 54in L by 36in W. I was figuring a eurobrace across the middle with two large cutouts and somehow work in the false overflow up through the rectangular overflow in the very center of the tank. I don't know exactly what the design of the interface between the overflow and eurobrace will be to accomodate maintanence, clean out.

Are you suggesting that the actuator be located dead center on the tank? Supported by the acrylic somehow?

Yes. Lift in the center. The lower clevis can be attatched below the tank in the stand. Guide the top by all 4 corners.

Don

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay I will think about that... hiding the actuator in the false overflow... brilliant!

 

[Krish]

Looks great Don!

 

[dragoneggs]

Don, I am concerned about the force exerted on the eurobrace (tank) unless I put a crossbrace spanning across the canopy bottom just above the tank top. I suppose I could mount an actuator to the cross brace but I need to finalize my overflow and eurobrace.

Upon further thought I think I want the actuator part of the canopy so it is only one unplug to remove entire canopy. This means adding a cross support but again will have to incorporate this into the tank design... stay tuned.

Thanks so much for the suggestions... keep 'em coming.

Went to the Seahawks game today so I am a little down. Time to get back into the shop.

 

[DonW]

Don, I am concerned about the force exerted on the eurobrace (tank) unless I put a crossbrace spanning across the canopy bottom just above the tank top. I suppose I could mount an actuator to the cross brace but I need to finalize my overflow and eurobrace.

Upon further thought I think I want the actuator part of the canopy so it is only one unplug to remove entire canopy. This means adding a cross support but again will have to incorporate this into the tank design... stay tuned.

Thanks so much for the suggestions... keep 'em coming.

Went to the Seahawks game today so I am a little down. Time to get back into the shop.

Assuming the tank is 24 deep you could stuff the actuator in the false overflow. The lower actuator clevis gets attatched to the stand below the tank. The actuator rod goes up through a 3/4 hole in the tanks acrylic cross brace. The rod clevis attatches with a pull pin to the canopy. So pull the pin unplug the main light plug and remove the canopy. The actuater never moves.

Don

 

[Scooterman]

Looking good Don, when your all done, we'll need a movie to really see what is going on with all that automation, that is really trick for a reef tank! Looks like a souped up 68/69 camero!