lighting oppinions and why...

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Ed Hahn

Life is A Highway...
Joined
Jan 27, 2004
Messages
3,955
Location
Kennewick, Wa
I like 10 k for growth. But love the atinics or 20k for color. When I put my new (Tangee) Cube together I used two 400 watt HQI driven 20 k bulbs. I use one ushio 20k and a XM 20k. The coloring of my fuzzy sticks was awesome. Now I am going to 10k Xms. I have growth, a little die off and regrowth of coraline algae due to change in lighting. I am hoping by using the 2 4ft HO Attinic plus that my coloring will return.
Ok, What is your oppinion on using the 20K or Attinics for coloring, lighting and why?
 
I used the 20K XM's before on my 75gal and I loved the color against my blue acrylic background, but I didn't have any corals in my tank to do a comparison then with another spectrum though. I got a 12K Reeflux bulb (which side by side in two different reflectors) I couldn't tell the difference. I even posted a picture of the tank with the 2 different bulbs in the canopy at one time and you couldn't tell which side had what. Anyways, I used the 12K Reeflux in my new cube and have added corals since. Just last week, my 12K had cracked, so I had to put in a spare brand new 10K XM in to tie me over. What I've noticed is my corals love the 10K alot more than the Reeflux 12K I had. My polyps stay out more now than they did before. The bulb hasn't been in long enough to see any changes in coraline, but in any event, I have a 14K Hamilton on the way which will be going in as soon as it gets here. I too like the blue look. In any event, coraline likes the bluer spectrum/higher kelvin rating from what I understand and thus the reason why you may have noticed the die off in color of the coraline. I think with you going with that 10K XM which has an incredible "PAR" rating and some actinics for coloration, I think you'll be well on your way. You'll have the great growth from the 10K, but it will be more appealing to your eyes with the blue tint and should "please" the coraline as well. I wanted to keep the 10K on and supplement with actinics, but i don't have the space under my canopy for anything big and with pc probably being the only ones that can fit, my 250W 10K would drown them out so I have to raise my kelvin rating some on my halide bulb. I wish you luck ED and hope you get want you want out of it after all is said and done:)
 
Ed,
I recently switched to 20k's and will probably never go back to 10's. If you have the intensity most likely you do with the 400w, I dont thing your going to see any great difference in growth but a big differnece in color.

Don
 
Don,
I only have two 400 watt MH. I am running a lite rail system. They move lights back and forth. So I was a little worried there.
 
Don,
I only have two 400 watt MH. I am running a lite rail system. They move lights back and forth. So I was a little worried there.

Ed the intensity isnt going to change with the light rail. How is it working for you? I think you'll see a browning if you just up and switch to 10k or even bleaching.

Don
 
I think you'll see a browning if you just up and switch to 10k or even bleaching.

Don

Not to take away from your thread Ed, but Don...How long would you say is safe for a swap from a 10K? Not sure if you knew, but my 12K cracked last week and I have been using a brand new 10K XM in it's place until my new 14K Hamilton gets here and I'd say it will be probably 7 days at the most my corals would be under the 10K before I make the swap. Think I'll have any issues with such a short amount of time?

Thanks for sharing your thread ED:D
 
Not to take away from your thread Ed, but Don...How long would you say is safe for a swap from a 10K? Not sure if you knew, but my 12K cracked last week and I have been using a brand new 10K XM in it's place until my new 14K Hamilton gets here and I'd say it will be probably 7 days at the most my corals would be under the 10K before I make the swap. Think I'll have any issues with such a short amount of time?

Thanks for sharing your thread ED:D

Krish take a look at sanjay's bulb specs. Check the difference in par, this will give you a good idea whats going to happen. I recently switched from 10k ushios to 20k xm and if I remember right the 20k has about half the par. But you are going the other way so you may concider window screen or eggcrate to acclimate the tank.

Don
 
Well, I will be going the same way you went...10K now to the 14K (which is less PAR) I guess if anything was to happen (bleaching) it would have been with the switch from the 12K which has a PAR rating of about 250 or so with my ballast to the 10K I have to use now which has about 680-695 or so. No bleaching yet so I guess I will be fine especially after I change back to a higher kelvin rating this upcomming week and less PAR if I'm understanding things correctly....Thanks:)
 
Well, I will be going the same way you went...10K now to the 14K (which is less PAR) I guess if anything was to happen (bleaching) it would have been with the switch from the 12K which has a PAR rating of about 250 or so with my ballast to the 10K I have to use now which has about 680-695 or so. No bleaching yet so I guess I will be fine especially after I change back to a higher kelvin rating this upcomming week and less PAR if I'm understanding things correctly....Thanks:)

Ya, you went way up then your going to go back down. I wouldnt worry to much since you dont have alot of sensitive sps.

Don
 
lite rail is working good Don so far. Corals are all doing good. I switched to one XM 10 k and shortened my photo period to adapt. I did the same on second bulb. If it were me Krish I would shorten the photo period for break in or use some type of shielding (screens). You do not want to harm them fuzzy sticks (Where is Mojo).
 
Ya, you went way up then your going to go back down. I wouldnt worry to much since you dont have alot of sensitive sps.

Don

Thanks Don...:)


If it were me Krish I would shorten the photo period for break in or use some type of shielding (screens). You do not want to harm them fuzzy sticks (Where is Mojo).

LOL..Thanks ED:)
 

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