Majano Hot Tub?

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broskie

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
125
Location
Redmond, WA
So after receiving some nice Live rock to start my tank I started to notice more and more Majano popping up. Now I am by no way mad by and means cause it's really nice porous and unique and I just got my landscape perfect so I am not wanting to remove the rock to clean. I also don't want to take the time to inject, buy a fish, or put any type of kalk on the them. I was wondering though since I just started the tank and didn't have any fish or corals in the tank if I was to turn the temp up to 92-95 degrees if I could just kill them by the extreme heat over a period of time. has anyone tried this method and if so what were your results? Thanks in advance
 
Talk to Crazyfish253. If there are similarities to Aptasia. I'd look at getting a trained File Fish to eat them.
 
You would think there would be something you could do to easly wipe them out. Just want to be sure that whatever it is doesn't kill the bacteria in the rock also. Maybe someone here knows an answer.

You could also just gradually increase the heat over time, a degree, wait a day or 2, etc. and observe the mojano and see how they react.

You would think there is some way to selectively treat against the anemone...
 
My concern would be that heating the water up, would stress the Majano, causing them to go into a reproductive frenzy, but that it may not kill them. You could end up with vastly more than you currently have.

I've personally used an Acreichthys tomentosus filefish and it did an amazing job of eradicating my Majano infestation. All of my Majano were gone, in about a month. The fish eats frozen prepared foods, just fine. It leaves all corals alone, as long as I kept it fed. If I go a few days without feeding, it will nip at Zoanthids, but in 6-8 months hasn't caused any real damage to any Zoanthids.
 
Hey Broskie, if Majano's are anything like Aiptasia they have very high tollerance to heat. While in Hawaii some of the shallow tidepools with Aiptasia were well into the upper 90's and maybe even over a 100* mark. On the Matted Filefish though very effective on Majanos even well fed mine on loan has developed a taste for zoa's and eaten several colonie$ in past couple months. Duane (trido) has made a very inexpensive zapper, shoot him a pm for details or a link to his thread.


Cheers, Todd


P.S. that lazer is pretty awesome
 
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I know your rocks are where you like them, but it won't be that hard to put them back - honestly... you have no corals, or fish in the tank... take the rocks out, dip them, cook them, whatever - but do it!! Being a lazy reefer gets you nowhere in this hobby.....

CoralRX does a good job at killing majanos - in a dip - just make sure you blow the rocks off very well - they literally fall off... a couple of treatments could kill them all.
 
crazy al. Can you link the order page for that laser? Would love to check it out

I'm not crazy LOL (well not been certified yet . . . )

Spartan Series 1W Blue Handheld Laser, Rectangle Beam :: Blue Handheld Laser ----- 447nm Laser ----- Spartan Series Lasers :: Handheld Lasers :: Dragon Lasers

Be sure and get the corresponding protective goggles, that beam is very dangerous! If someone is interested in this device I'll post all the SAFETY stuff just to be safe. Heck I'll go get it and post just in case....
 
This is off of my local reef forum:

Before I get into the parts you need, I want to share some aquarium safety tips that are being developed:

Best practices for the use of lasers in aquaria (first draft)

Secure the Area
The lase area should be closed off from any transient traffic to prevent someone from unknowingly entering the area without appropriate eye protection. Any doors should be closed and locked. Any windows should be covered or blinds closed to prevent the escape of reflected laser energy.

Only the laser operator and those required in the process should be allowed in the area. All pets should be removed from the area and prevented for reentering while the laser is in use.

Protective Gear
A high power laser beam striking your eye, or the eye of an observer can result in instant and permanent blindness. Even viewing the beam endpoint without eye protection will cause eye damage. The user and everyone within the viewing or potential reflection areas must be equipped with appropriate eye protection specifically designed for the wavelength laser being used. Sunglasses do not protect against laser light. Laser eye protection is designed to protect against unintentional reflections and endpoint viewing. It is not designed to protect from a laser beam being directed toward the eye. Never look directly at a laser beam or allow it to directly strike your eye. Long sleeves and Nitrile gloves offer an additional layer of protection for the operator.

Identify and Eliminate Reflection Hazards
Using high power lasers in glass and acrylic tanks is virtually guaranteed to create potentially hazardous beam reflections. These beam reflections can cause serious injury. This danger is amplified by the fact that use of the appropriate safety goggles will prevent you from seeing most beam reflections. Positioning the laser at right angles (directly perpendicular) to the tank glass or acrylic should be avoided as unseen laser energy will be reflected directly toward the user. Burns to exposed tissue can occur within seconds.To prevent injury, a low power targeting laser (such as a laser pointer) in a different spectrum that can be seen when using the safety goggles should be utilized to identify any reflections before firing the high power laser.

Identify Backstops
The laser beam will penetrate clean glass or acrylic with virtually no heat being transmitted to the tank material. The beam will quickly (almost instantly) pierce though the targeted item and impact anything behind it. Extreme caution must be exercised to prevent injury to any livestock located behind the targeted item. Painted or dark glass or acrylic surfaces may become heated during lasing.

Reduce Water Flow
Pumps should be turned off during lasering. This limits the cooling effect of water passing over the target thereby increasing the effectiveness of the laser and reducing the firing duration required to achieve the intended results. It also simplifies targeting as the intended pest is motionless.

Protecting Tank Inhabitants
Failure to protect tank inhabitants from repeated viewing the beam endpoint will likely result in blindness to your livestock. Ideally, all livestock should be removed and held in quarantine in a tank protected (covered) from stray laser light until laser treatment is completed. Alternative methods(s) to protect livestock from encountering the beam or end-point include,
  • Physical Barriers - Use of physical barriers to prevent inhabitants from accessing an area being lased and to prevent any laser energy (beam pass-through or reflections) from entering any areas containing livestock.
  • Endpoint Shield - If physically blocking off the area being lased is impractical due to tank features, an end-point shield should be used to prevent inhabitants from viewing the end-beam. In this case, extreme diligence is required to extinguish the beam should any inhabitants approach. This is likely, due to curiosity over the “sizzling” sound created by the operating laser. The endpoint shield can be created by simply as a short section of opaque acrylic (such as painted or frosted.) PVC should not be used as it emits toxins when heated.

Potential Impact to Water Quality
Use of a lasers to eradicate certain marine pests may result in the release of undetermined levels of toxins into the water column. It is believed that the intense heat may break down some of the compounds (such as Palytoxins.) Depending on the type and number of pests being destroyed and the size of the tank, the user should be prepared to use fresh carbon and or execute a water change to reduce any toxins produced.

Securing the Laser When Not in Use
When not in use the laser should be treated and stored as a firearm. When not is use it should be secured in a lockable case with batteries removed. The locked case should be stored out of the reach of children.

CJ
 
I know your rocks are where you like them, but it won't be that hard to put them back - honestly... you have no corals, or fish in the tank... take the rocks out, dip them, cook them, whatever - but do it!! Being a lazy reefer gets you nowhere in this hobby.....

It's not that I am lazy but if I going to have to pull them out, boil them, and then reset it all back up why not do it in the tank if this works? I am going to give this a try for a few days and with the tank covered so it recieves no light. Worse case scenario I will pull the rock and boil it.
 
It's not that I am lazy but if I going to have to pull them out, boil them, and then reset it all back up why not do it in the tank if this works?.

The difference between cooking your tank vs. taking the rock out would be that you'd only be killing everything on your rock, but all the beneficial bacteria and creatures in your substrate (sand or whatever else you may have) is still alive. By cooking your entire tank, you kill EVERYTHING. I think taking the rock out would be the best route as well, but it's your tank in the end, and it sounds like you've already made up your mind anyway ;)
 
A file fish was my salvation! No more aiptasia/majano since he has been in the tank (about 6 months) and he eats whatever I feed. Not the prettiest fish... almost ugly but I love him... now if he would eat green hair algae I would be in heaven!
 

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