My new sump design

[jhampton_wsu]

So I'm planning on moving my sump to the garage. Doing this will give me a chance to build a larger sump. I plan on using a 55 gallon acrylic since I have a 6 year old with a skate board. I've found one used and I'm thinking of purchaseing it tomorrow. My first question is about the top, it's not an open frame top like a glass tank it has an acrylic top with large holes in the center like many acrylic tanks do. Will it be difficult to cut the top off so I can add the baffles? One sump desingn I like is this one http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/glass/index.html

Any thoughts? I'm going to look at the tank tomorrow.

 

[Michael39924]

If you don't care how it looks then a jig saw will do it or a grinder. I just modified a 20 gal acrylic sump I traded for, and had to cut thru a 1/2" acrylic piece to open up the top and then move a wall on the left side about 2 inches to the right so I can fit a return pump. It was a nice looking and well made sump but just poorly designed. It looks kinda scratched but who cares it goes inside my tank cabinet. If the price on that tank is right I would take it if I were you.

 

[jhampton_wsu]

Thanks. I appreciate it.

 

[jhampton_wsu]

Ok so begins the sump build. Yesterday I got a free 55 gallon acrylic from a Ree Frontiers member. The tank has 3 holes in the bottome that I plan on covering with acrylic patches. I've started cleaning out the tank today and I see my first problem. A previous owner has added 2" x 2" squares using 1/2" acrylic with acrylic pegs on the bottom of the tank. The pegs come off easily. The squares cover the bottom in a checkerboard pattern. Is there a good way to get some off so when I add my baffles I will be able to get a clean bond on the bottom from side to side?

 

[kgross]

If they are glued down with solvent glue, they will be next to impossible to remove.

But you can still make sure your sump work, Glue in the baffles, and just use some silicone to fill in the holes in the bottom.

Kim

 

[trido]

If they are glued down with solvent glue, they will be next to impossible to remove.

But you can still make sure your sump work, Glue in the baffles, and just use some silicone to fill in the holes in the bottom.

Kim

I agree with everything posted here BUT.......... I'd recommend E-6000, its like silicone but bonds to acrylic 10X better.

 

[oldsaint]

My first question is about the top, it's not an open frame top like a glass tank it has an acrylic top with large holes in the center like many acrylic tanks do. Will it be difficult to cut the top off so I can add the baffles?

ummm I may be off base here but is anyone else concerned with cutting off what sounds like a euro brace from a 55 gal?

I could see where it wouldn't be a problem on a small tank. Just curious if anyone has done it to a 4' long one. I would be concerned with bowing once the center brace is gone.

 

[jhampton_wsu]

ummm I may be off base here but is anyone else concerned with cutting off what sounds like a euro brace from a 55 gal?

I could see where it wouldn't be a problem on a small tank. Just curious if anyone has done it to a 4' long one. I would be concerned with bowing once the center brace is gone.

I didn't think the "euro brace" would be a big deal since I will be adding five or six baffles. If anyone else has any thoughts regarding this I would appreciate it.

 

[kgross]

If enough baffles are added, it will not be a concern as long as the baffles are properly glued to the sides of the sump.

Kim

 

[trido]

If enough baffles are added, it will not be a concern as long as the baffles are properly glued to the sides of the sump.

Kim

Better watch out for this Kim person. She (I assume) knows what she's talking about.

 

[kgross]

Kim is a he.....

 

[trido]

Kim is a he.....

Good thing I cover my *** then huh?

 

[kgross]

I have been called much much worse, so it does not bother me to be honest.

Kim

 

[trido]

I have been called much much worse, so it does not bother me to be honest.

Kim

Oh I understand.........Oestreich pronounced (A-strike) Remove the E's and it spells Ostrich. Hell and thats just my last name. :badgrin: There are over seven ways to spell my first name.

 

[kgross]

White male, small town. full name Kim Gross. I have had enough name insults, that it does not bother me at all.

Kim

 

[kgross]

But we are getting way off topic here.

If the sump bows to much, just put a 1 inch strip on each side as a eurobrace...

kim

 

[jhampton_wsu]

I'm kind of combining my two threads the other is called "Plumbing a lon run under my house". Since I have my new/used 55 cleaned up and ready for modification I thought I'd use this thread to get advice. I like this design with my return in the middle and the fuge on the right.

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/f/sump_f.html

In the 11th pictrue down it explains the plumbing.

I'm going to run the plumbing under my house and locate my new sump in the garage. I've talked this over and my only concern is when I lose power and power up again if my overflow will be able to push the water in the pipes through without overflowing my tank (since the pipes will temporarily be below sump level and have to rise back up about 2 feet to drain, the pipes and sump will always be below the displays water level. We think it will work. I've decided to use both bulkeads in the bottom of my tank as drains (using the herbie method) and run a third seperate line for the return. If I tune the second drain pipe for a trickle will this be enough flow to my fuge or should I t-off the main overflow and add a gate valve for more flow to my fuge which will be on the right side of my sump?
new/old tank
View attachment 32076
filling with vinegar/water
View attachment 32077
Clean and ready for mods
View attachment 32078

Jason

 

[kgross]

If your trying to grow chaeto, you want enough flow in the fuge to have it rolling. That way the whole ball gets light, not just the top.

A fuge will work with slow flow, but most of the time a chaeto fuge works much much better with a pretty good flow rate going through it.

Kim

 

[jhampton_wsu]

Thanks Kim, Would I be better to use a different macro or is chaeto the safest? If the chaeto needs better flow should I put the fuge in the middle and have all the water flow through it and then into the return chamber? Also, since my skimmer works best in 7-8" of water I will build a stand for it, can/should I put rock under the stand?

Jason

If your trying to grow chaeto, you want enough flow in the fuge to have it rolling. That way the whole ball gets light, not just the top.

A fuge will work with slow flow, but most of the time a chaeto fuge works much much better with a pretty good flow rate going through it.

Kim

 

[kgross]

I like chaeto for fuges, it never goes sexual.

Myself I would do the fuge in the middle return on the end, that way you can make the fuge much larger, since it will act as the bubble trap for the skimmer section. Then you can use egg crate for the baffle between the fuge and return. With the egg crate, you can make the return section very very small, since it will be able to share water with the fuge, so for evap and drain down, both sections will raise and fall.

Here is a link to a very bad write up and some bad pictures of a sump like I am talking about.

http://www.jensalt.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3

Kim