A pump and bucket ato should have two floats one that controls the water level and a second that backs up the first mounted very close to the same level height.
Ok Don I'm gunna throw in a wing nut here
You say one controls water level, (I take it that when water gets low, the float turns on a PH or opens up a solenoid to allow water to fill back up) right? So the second backs up the First? How is this done, (Does it go longer & if the water level drops even lower it kicks on the PH or Solenoid to bring the water level back up) OR (Does it shut off the PH or close the Solenoid to prevent more water from entering the sump)?
One that uses universal block relays would be low on my list as far as reliability. Don
Part Two!!
What are you calling universal Block relays?
The Oceanus uses Siemens (VF7-11H12) & OMRON 24vdc relays, I'd have to go check on the two timer relays but they are solid state & expensive. Are these the block relays types your talking about & I'm guessing you would prefer all solid states? I've decided to build a new ATO & PUMP/Chiller protector but maybe with better parts. I'll have to draw up the schematic like I did for the MBV controller because this unit will be getting bigger & bigger as I get money to build it, I'm using Phoenix Solid state relays for the MBV control, at 26 buks each they aren't cheap. I thought about using P&B relays but the Phoenix I'm using is a thin rail mounted relay, I can stack them up like terminal blocks, also they are class 1 div 2 types, not that is required but just a bonus. We use these offshore in saltwater conditions in situations that are critical & must preform. I was just wondering what type of relays you prefer & if the ones used by the Oceanus are good or the block cheapy types, they look like mechanical relays to me so that would make sense.
Ok part three!
The unit I have now has three float switches in the sump, one is the low level switch, the very next one close to it is a high sump level switch.
The First switch is the normal ATO just adds water when low & shuts off when it floats again. The second switch is in case the first never shuts off & shuts power to the PH or solenoid to stop water coming in, this is the back-up & the third is the Low Low sump level & shuts off the pump, this one is on a solid state timer, it shuts off the main sump pump & the chiller. Now one more float switch is in the main display, If water goes too high it shuts off the main sump pump & chiller also, any alarm flashes a nice pretty red light & beeps like crazy.
Is there any more to this I need to add or change in your Expert opinion?:?::?::?: If this design is good then all I need to do it maybe replace cheaper parts with better parts right?
OK enough of the wing nut.
