Nemcrazy's crazy Coldwater 45

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NemCrazy

Catalina goby
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
632
Location
monroe wa
This is my attempt at Coldwater tank and it's fairly new as a tank so there will be lots of changes coming maybe even an upgrade :) I always wanted to have a Coldwater tank due to all the different anemones that abound in Coldwater and their ability to cohabitate. If done right these tanks show great colors. And now that Coldwater Marine Aquatics is able to sell Coldwater livestock, I took the polar plunge. There is very little info on how to take care of these systems except for a few threads. So I think I will start one and see what comes of it. I am doing all of this from my phone so please bear with me as I get picks out. (I can't figure out the photo bucket deal) So to start it all off I have 14 aggregating anemones. I've had two split already. 9 strawberry nems two have split with these guys too Lol, three painted anemones, two green surf anemones, three plumose anemones, one moonglow nem, and a bleached swimming anemone that I rescued from a fellow reefers tank who had them in ten gallon tetra tank blue rocks and all lol along with the larger painted nem and moonglow anemone. Oh for fish two tiny Catalina gobies a purple beach crab some green sand crabs and a purple urchin. most of them livestock is small so my tank looks empty but I can see the potential. Now I will see about pics for ya:)
 
Saweet! 1. Thxs for doing the thread
2. congrats on having the ballz to do the coldwater tank. Ur a pioneer bro!
3. following along!
 
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http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh542/Nemcrazy/Mobile Uploads/IMG_7193.jpg

Mobile Uploads :: IMG_2233.jpg picture by Nemcrazy - Photobucket
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK Ok lol I got you some pics. Sorry they are all cellphone pics but it shows you a little bit of what's going on
 
So how is it that you are maintaining the temperature of the tank. I would guess a decently sized chiller is necessary for this, unless you keep your house at 54 degrees.
 
Well the system is three weeks old. And the tank sits in my basement on the floor which keeps it at 60-64 tops. I choose tidal area and tidepool critters because they are able to with stand extreme temp, and salinity fluctuations. Many tide pools reach temps in the 70's. They are also able to handle swings in ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. That doesn't mean you can slack on water quality. Biological filtration is much slower and having a cycled tank is not as much of a benefit. I run two biowheels that I have heavily dosed with bb and a sponge with bb on a power head. And I plan on putting in an over sized protien skimmer in the next day or two along with a uv filter. With cold water animals light is not crucial. But filtration is even more critical because of the heavy feeding they require. I also dose with Prime to detoxify when there is a swing.
 
Very cool. I was just down in Portland at Saltwater Fantaseas (the show that was recently hit by vandals) and they have set up a coldwater system display in their store. They said the tanks require at least 1" thick acrylic to combat condensation from the cold water. Are you seeing any issues with this? Are you considering chilling the water further? Following along to see the progress. Thanks for posting.
 
Well I get a thin amount of condensation since it's a normal glass tank. It helps that it's not chilled. I am wanting to pick up a double paned marineland tank to solve the problem when I get a chiller. But I will be keeping it around 60 if I get one. It will just allow me to bring the system into the living room. The Catalina gobies prefer temps from 60 to 70 but I may drop a degree or two depending on how they react. The are the canaries of the tank since the nems are so hardy. Huh ... That's different ain't it. Lol. Its a cold new world.
 
Great stuff. prob do one someday! careful on that seachem prime, really robs the o2! and I'm assuming cold water species are use to high o2 levels?
 
They are used to high levels of O2. I have the two biowheels running and lots of surface agitation due to the power head being so close to the surface. It's a good point though. I am thinking I may want to use zeo-carb. My thinking is that it would knock down ammonia levels and that it would not be able to handle all of the load. So I would still have ammonia present to complete the cycle. Albeit a longer cycle but safer. I've never used the stuff so I'm wondering if anyone else has. But the other thing I was thinking is... Even when it cycles it won't do much so why not give it a shot? It didn't say anything about this in my "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Saltwater Aquariums" lol
 
Dude it sounds like you have this all figured out. Sounds awesome and sure the tank it self will soon be full of life.
 
They are used to high levels of O2. I have the two biowheels running and lots of surface agitation due to the power head being so close to the surface. It's a good point though. I am thinking I may want to use zeo-carb. My thinking is that it would knock down ammonia levels and that it would not be able to handle all of the load. So I would still have ammonia present to complete the cycle. Albeit a longer cycle but safer. I've never used the stuff so I'm wondering if anyone else has. But the other thing I was thinking is... Even when it cycles it won't do much so why not give it a shot? It didn't say anything about this in my "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Saltwater Aquariums" lol

One fact that has to be a constant weather in tropic or cold water is there will always only be enough bacteria present as there is food for them to eat. More food equals mutiplication. Less food equals die off. So when you think about the "cycle", is salt water it is 4 stages of bacteria, the ones that breakdown waste...ammonia, then nitrite, nitrate and then denitrification. I like to look at a "cycle" as having all stages in place and mature.

The problem is each stage happens slower than the previous ( is my understanding) so any huge addition of a bioload can end up in spikes...no matter how old your tank is!

from what I understand of your sytem, I would be thinking in the term of removal of organics before they have a chance to breakdown and not so much on dealing with them once they do....which seems to be what you are doing in the first place. Right?

so why the need to detoxify or remove ammonia? you should'nt be allowing bacteria to breakdown organics in the first place.

in the end, I would think your key is consitancy ( since everthing happens slow in cold water) meaning feeding the same amount at the same frequency etc.

also, how about go old fashioned bioballs or a fliudized bed? a very large area for bacteria to multiply in great numbers quickly as they are needed?

just my thoughts. please tell me where I am wrong for my future reference.

thanks!
 
Kevin your exactly right the emphasis is on waste removal. Hence three filters. Two bio wheels and a power head attached to a water polishing filter. And since I have a pea gravel bed I just take the power head and blow it all around advert couple of days. If I build a sump for my tropical anemone tanks I can reclaim the wet/dry filter I modified into a sump and create a fluidized bed with all the bio balls I have sitting in a bag. But until I get to building a sump I was looking for a buffer. Till I figure it all out that is. Well tonight I do another water change. All seems to be running good though.
 

I went ahead and edited your first pictures but left the last one alone so you could do it.
When you click on the edit post button, you'll see that the last picture shows up as a link with url before and after it. To make the pics visible without having to click the link, remove the url script, and replace it with img. Dont forget the / at the end....

Nice looking set up. I envy you guys being able to go collect your own critters for coldwater tanks up there....

Nick
 
Kevin your welcome anytime to check out the tanks. But wait till you see what I got up my sleeve right now. Once it becomes a reality it might change the whole game. But right now I am trying to assemble the manpower to get it done or it won't happen.
 

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