New 300 l aquarium _Peca

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Peca

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2004
Messages
46
Location
Belgrade, Serbia
Hi saltwater fellows!
After some period, I switch from 150 l (35 gal) on new 300 l (70 gal) aquarium. It was really tricky job in country without almost anything for marine aquarium. So, I started with hand made stand, made with space for sump, but this time I start without sump. I need more money for sump + new skimmer. After stand, I order "flot" glass aquarium with top glasses cover. Dimensions are: 1100 x 500 x 570mm (about 43 x 20 x 22"). Glass thickness is 10mm. I split aquarium on main part - aquarium (240 l) and back filter (60 l). When I decide to switch on sump, I just cut silicone and take out glass barrier.
 
Lighting is 6 x T5 39W fluorescent lamps. I find only Aqua Medic and Sylvania lamps (not in my country, but with help of aquarist from surround countries). I put 3 white (10.000K) and 3 blue lamp.
The hood was made from metal sheet 1, 2 mm thick on which I put plastic layer (I don’t know right word for this). For connection I use classic 9-pin PC socket, for easy and quick disconnection. Lamps are fit in position by waterproof Arcadia lamp holders. The hood is made as Overtank Luminaire and has holes on top for vent. Also, over lamp I put hi gloss metal sheet as reflector. All are hand made.
 
Skimmer is old one - Sander AH500 external, powered by New Jet 3000 power head. I still don’t know efficiency of his venturi system because it works few days without any skim. Filter chambers are: first water go in empty chamber (with skimmer pump), than go on mechanic filtration media (sponge + Sera bioFibre + sponge), than place for Live rocks, lot of Sera bioBox, Rowa Phos and Aqua Medic Hydrocarbonat. As return pump, I use Eheim canister filter with old bio materials. In one corner I have Aquarium Systems MaxiJet 1200 l/h connected with spray bar targeted on back of Live rock.
First reading are: pH - 8.0 (with some KH and pH builders 8.15) by pH meter; KH - 9 (by Sera test, not quality); Specific Gravity - 1.025 (refract meter); NO2 - 0.05 (Red Sea and JBL); NO3 - between 1-2.5 (Red Sea).
Any suggestion?
 
Wow very nice set-up, I like the false back, it should work fine until you add the sump later. Your fish look really happy in that new & larger tank.
 
Good job on the tank! I love how you put in the false back with the overflow as well! Very nice man...Thanks for sharing:)
 
Great to see you again, Peca! I love the new tank, and everything looks very nice! Be sure to keep us updated on your progress.

With regards to your tank test, I would try to get a better test kit, like Salifert for the nitrite and nitrates. I'm not sure what kits you have available where you live? When I first set up my tank, I used the Red Sea kits, and they didn't work very well. I kept showing an increased value for ammonia and nitrites, but when I tested against a Salifert test, the ammonia and nitrites were zero. It did read my nitrates correctly, however. If your tests are correct, then just keep performing water changes to try and lower those numbers.
 
Hi there Peca!

Nice to see ya back! Great setup there. My clownfish are jealous.

Best,
Ilham
 
After some period my skimmer started to produce skim. It is old ventury system, powered by NewJet 3000 powerhead.
 
cool setup. I would look at putting a needlewheel on that skimmer and supercharging it. probably create a good amount of bubbles.
 
After some period I made some changes. I switch my light from T5 (6x39W) to Metal halid - Iwasaki PAR 36, (2x150W - 6500K) + 2x39W blue T5.

I put all info on my blog: http://pecareef.wordpress.com/

I also use IP Power LAN timer to switch on/off light and coolers.
There is basic info in English too.
 
Last edited:
Hi. I’d like to upgrade my little reef a bit more.
First, I would like to build a sump with overflow, actually two 32mm bulkheads, with a Durso pipe. I will put it as an extension box on the back side of my aquarium. Also, I’m thinking about purchasing a “Tunze nano” wave box.
I am concerned about how my overflow will react to the up and down wave motion of the water.
Will the surge from the wave maker overwhelm a standard Durso? I’d really appreciate some advice on the matter from you guys. Thanks!

 

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