New Phosphate Remover from Warner Marine

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so you rinsed it even after they say not to, guess it doesn't hurt with ro but it seems they should at least say something of the sorts. At least it isn't as fine as rowaphos.
 
Boomer said:
Yah sure Ed, shoot a water jet at it so it gets all over the house and the wife gets pissed:D

OK, looks more like trout cow now :lol:

You are suppose to fill media bags in the sink :)

note:
Stay away from all bombs and explosive devices:D

Boomer, shhhhhh my wife will never know...;)
 
Mmmm... looks good ;)

It ACTUALLY is Ok to rinse it a bit if you want, Ed. Rinsing might reduce it's life by a little but if there's any dust it's fine. I rinse mine in a shallow pan, kinda' like panning for gold. It just takes a moment. Then place the bag anywhere there's water movement, such as the sump. In the perfect world, nothing would need rinsing but in reality... I may add an extra instruction to a label for the cap of the jars.

EDIT: And your location for the bag is excellent!
 
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jon warner said:
Mmmm... looks good ;)

It ACTUALLY is Ok to rinse it a bit if you want, Ed. Rinsing might reduce it's life by a little but if there's any dust it's fine. I rinse mine in a shallow pan, kinda' like panning for gold. It just takes a moment. Then place the bag anywhere there's water movement, such as the sump. In the perfect world, nothing would need rinsing but in reality... I may add an extra instruction to a label for the cap of the jars.

EDIT: And your location for the bag is excellent!
Jon,
Thank you for the education about this. I am betting that my die off from adding new rock which creates phosphates will be minimized. I will not clean my glass and see what happens. ;)
I need to explain, I was low on food Yesterday. I fed cycolpeeze. That is the Orange/brown film you see in my sump. Going to a meeting and learning about how Reef Safe Fish become not reef safe reminded me to feed my fish. ;)
 
Here's a question. I was taught to add ROWAphos (in fluidized reactor) slowly to a tank with SPS, in order to minimize a potential pH drop, and increase length of time on the tank a little at a time. Should this media also be introduced slowly?
 
NaH2O said:
Here's a question. I was taught to add ROWAphos (in fluidized reactor) slowly to a tank with SPS, in order to minimize a potential pH drop, and increase length of time on the tank a little at a time. Should this media also be introduced slowly?

You could add it slowly... in general it is always better to make chemical changes SLOWLY to the marine and reef aquarium.

Best Wishes,

Jon
 
Jon,
Will the new media crumble or grind itself up if placed in a high flow situation as in a reactor or cannister filter? I know Phosban will, which is why TLF reccomends running lower flow in a reactor with their media.

Nick
 
maxx said:
Jon,
Will the new media crumble or grind itself up if placed in a high flow situation as in a reactor or cannister filter? I know Phosban will, which is why TLF reccomends running lower flow in a reactor with their media.

Nick

The pellets are less prone to crumbling or grinding. With less sharp angles the pellets tend to allow water to FLOW between them, not causing the individual particles to flip or turn to allow water flow. This is why the pellets flow more water than granules. In addition, when pellets are used in a reactor, the water flow may be increased over a granular product. The pellet shape promotes tumbling and spinning and the particles don't catch the water flow like a "dry leaf on a fall day" and flutter out the top of the reactor. Having said that, I wouldn't recommend placing the media in VERY strong water flow areas such as at the base of a corner overflow or 1 inch from your skimmer outflow. This might forcefully grind the media to dust.

Jon Warner
 
Jon,
Can you explain the difference between Aluminum phosphate removers and Iron. I heard some people say Aluminum is bad. I just do not remember why. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in Advance,
Ed
 
I will look and see if there is a thread on this but basically the aluminum ones have quite a few problems over the iron based ones. They remove the phosphate quicker, but that means the become saturated more quickly and leech the phosphate back into the system. Also, the aluminum can leech into the system and can have a directly toxic effect on corals. They can also suck the alkalinity out of the water causing swings in pH.

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8996&highlight=aluminum+iron

Mat
 
Jon,
It works very well in my new Tank. My algae bloom is deminishing.
I am hoping others see it..
 
Ed Hahn said:
Jon,
It works very well in my new Tank. My algae bloom is deminishing.
I am hoping others see it..

Great new Ed! It's working well for me too. In fact I'm receiving great feedback and am quite satisifed. As you may have noticed, we don't release many new products, only products that have proven their value. We COULD have gone with a GFH similar to ROWA but we went with the superior raw material.

Jon Warner
 
pictures of Algae today, I had more a few days ago...

I will keep posting pictures of progress. Algae is leaving glass. The first picture is of back glass it was covered a few days ago. The front glass is showing the signs of algae leaving. I am betting in a few days it will be completely gone.
 
Scott should like this, this is the rock Scott gave me.

Phosphates prohibit the growth of coral and coraline algae when in excess. Here is the rock you gave me Scott. You can see the coraline algae is taking off quite well.
 
This is interesting though - looks like Champion won't be carrying it so where can we buy it?

This post was taken from RC

---
I had been looking into PhosAR and had sent an email to Champion lighting regarding the product after hearing they were supposed to carry it. This is the response I go from them:

_______

We will not be carrying this product. After testing, we have found it to be
soft and break down in water which can add a lot of iron to the water.
Magnavore has done extensive research on various Granular Ferric Hydroxide Oxide (GFH) products from Germany. Below you will find an excerpt from their Phoslock spec sheet. We believe the Phosar to be Bayoxide E33.
 

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