Nitrate issues

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TinaPerry

Active member
Joined
Oct 16, 2007
Messages
28
Location
Sacramento
I am having a difficult time keeping my Nitrates out of the red.....Someone please help me......I am so frustrated.....I have done reading on my tank everyday several times a day and they rock from Red to Yellow on any given day....I do daily water changes and my protein skimmer seems to be working correctly......What else can I do?


Thanks
 
What test kit are you using?
Are you using ro/di water?
What is your bio-load?
Do you have a sump?
Bio-Balls?
 
Test your water that you are using for replacement during your water change.

What test kit are you using?
Are you using ro/di water?
What is your bio-load?
Do you have a sump?
Bio-Balls?


I agree...Give us a bit more info so we can know which direction to point you in :)
 
More information is definitely needed. This is what I would ask. In this order...

1) How long has your tank been running?
2) How long have you been doing "daily" water changes and how much gal/%?
3) How much and what are you feeding?
4) How many fish /Corals do you have? Inhabitants?
5) How much live rock do you have?
5) Do you have a sandbed, if so, what and how deep?
 
Last edited:
OK sorry for the delay in all your questions I am using a standard kit for testing....Nitrate Test solution bottles x2.......I use RO water .......Yes I have live rock......I have a crushed coral bed about 4 or 5 inches deep ......My tank is 30 gallons......The original tank was set up for about 2+ years and I downsized to a 30 gallon about 5 months ago...but my nitrates just started this last 2 weeks going in the red......I test about every 2 weeks ........I have done about 5 or 6 gallon water changes in the last 9 days everyday........Salt level is 1022........I have one Clown and one dies last night.....I had a white bubble tip but it died 1 month ago......I lost a Copper band shrimp....3 days ago.....I lost a green glowey coral about 1 week ago too.......Polps and mushrooms and anemone and crabs are ok so far..........All my other readings are coming up good it us just my Nitrates I can't seem to get under control..........Let me know......Thanks
 
Oh and I feed 1/2 cube of Brine shrimp nightly......nothing else......No bio balls ...I have a Aqua C remora Protein skimmer and a filter with live rock ......no carbon............I use a 250watt Metal Halide light that I just put on about 4 months now....before was Coralife lights.............Hope this helps in helping me.............
 
Have you tested the nitrate level in your new water before adding to the tank during the water change?
 
OK sorry for the delay in all your questions I am using a standard kit for testing....Nitrate Test solution bottles x2.......I use RO water .......Yes I have live rock......I have a crushed coral bed about 4 or 5 inches deep ......My tank is 30 gallons......The original tank was set up for about 2+ years and I downsized to a 30 gallon about 5 months ago...but my nitrates just started this last 2 weeks going in the red......I test about every 2 weeks ........I have done about 5 or 6 gallon water changes in the last 9 days everyday........Salt level is 1022........I have one Clown and one dies last night.....I had a white bubble tip but it died 1 month ago......I lost a Copper band shrimp....3 days ago.....I lost a green glowey coral about 1 week ago too.......Polps and mushrooms and anemone and crabs are ok so far..........All my other readings are coming up good it us just my Nitrates I can't seem to get under control..........Let me know......Thanks

Are you experiencing any algae problems in the tank? The reason I ask is because algae is usually associated with high nitrate levels and if you aren't experiencing any nuicance algae it is quite possible you have an inaccurate test kit, but it is just a thought. I would double check it with another test kit (maybe have a LFS test it for you). In any event, going on a possible nitrate problem, the crushed corals could possibly pose some of the problem. Do to the grain size, waste/detritus etc can get "lost" in there and cause issues if not removed, but left to rott. Do you vaccum it thoroughly regularily? If not, it would be a good idea to. Just a few thoughts for starters...:)


Kirsh you keep agreeing with me and I am going think I know something about this stuff!!!!

LOL!! You saying that makes me feel like you think I know something :lol:
 
I don't believe anyone has asked this question: What is the numeric value of your Nitrate test (ie, 25, 50, 100). "nitrates in the red" means nothing to me.

How is the manufacture of your standard testing kit? (ie, Elos, Seachem, Red Sea, etc.).
Reason I ask, if you have a LFS that uses the same testing kit you do, take your water to them and have them use the same test kit to test for Nitrates. This could tell you if your testing solution is OK or not.

Kirk
 
The test kit is Seachem and yes I doughted the test so I did take a water sample to LFS and he got the same results...very high Nitrates....over 180 ....And as far as when the reading came up it started when the live stocks started dying....I just want to know how to stop it at this point....without losing more..........I do or have been vacuuming the coral bottom to lift some death from it ....
 
If you have nitrates in the water you are using in place of the removed water you are adding more nitrates. I have a ro filter for drinking water in my house and it has measured as high 50 pp, so I bought a ro/di for my fish.

Who are you getting the water from?
 
I use bottled RO water.....never thought about testing the water

Most people recommend using ro/di rather than just ro so I'd test your makeup water as suggested as that may be the source of your nitrates :)
 
i don't know how to make a new thread... but i'm having trouble with my nitrites... my nitrates were at 40 so i did a water change and nitrites are still up there and ph is low... is that from nitrites getting converted into nitrous acid? I have some damzels and a snowflake eel and i'm thinking that i might over feed my damzels. what should i do? 45-gallon tank with 250g/h powerhead and a couple of non-living objects.
 
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