Phosphates in a 30g sumpless tank

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woody283

Active member
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
29
Location
Hustisford WI
I have a 30 gal cube with abot 35# of lr and an Aqua c remora skimmer and im having trouble with phosphates. Ive been thinking of adding a canister filter to improve flow and use it for carbon and phoshate media. (all sponges and filters removed) will the canister have to much flow for the phosphate media and could there be other problems that using one could lead to? and would this even help. my coral seem to be fine but i have alot of hair alge and just water changes dont seem to help. Thank for the help


amonia 0
ites 0
ates >5
ph 8.5
Po4 1 - 1.5
cal 380
kh 9
all API test kits
 
I had the same problem with my sumpless 40g running a remora. When my SPS colors would never get better then brown I decided to test my phosphates and found them at over 1.0 =\ I slowly ramped up a phosphate remover and was able to get it down to the .05 range. I beleive I used phosar? It was able to be used passivley so I just threw a bag of it in my remore surface skimmer box. A canister filter would work too, just make sure that you can get one with low enough flow(most phosphate removers require low flow) and make sure to clean it often to remove all the detritus that will accumulate in there.
 
thanks. i found a small hang on canister that is rated for 80gph and has two chambers. it wont help much for flow but ill just have to get a korila nano for that. Where should i run the phos ban before the carbon or after?
 
I have a 50g sumpless and my phosphates are zero. I'm only running a remora as well. One time I tried the phosguard(not sure if thats the right product name) on my tank and my tank was really cloudy until I took it out. nothing seemed very happy while I had it in there. Canister filter is a good idea though, you could put carbon in there too.
 
the only time my tests read phosphates is wen i blow off my rock with a power head befor a waterchange. I have alot of hair algea so the Po4 must be bult up in the algea. i have moderate flow about 30x turnover but that will be upted to 40x when i get my new powereheads. i dont feed heavy since i only have 3 fish and a shrimp. A mated pair of osc clowns, a sixline wrasse, and a coral banded shrimp. corals i have, an acro staghorn, red monti cap, birds nest, green porites, and a frogspawn. i have growth from all my coral. i do water changes every 2 weeks with ro-di, and scub my rock and blow it off with a power head befor the water change and i still cant get it down. my make up water is ro-di and tests 0 for Po4. all i can think of doing is running phosban to help bring it down and help get the algea under control. if any one has any other ideas that i culd try please let me know thanks
 
Woody,
When is the last time you checked the TDS output of your RO/DI water? This is a common no see mistake. TDS or Total Disolved Solids in water. You may be due to change your filters in your RO/DI.
 
Phosphates are gonna happen, theres no way around them. All the food that you put in your tank contains phosphates, and once broken down they are added to your tank water. You could of course starve your tank to bring down phosphates but that is not a good option at all as I have always seen tanks react better to heavy feedings with heavy filtration vs little feeding and light filtration. Water changes will help some, but the majority of your phosphates are being used up by your hair algae before being allowed to accumulate in your water. To really get phospahtes down, you need either A)refugium or B)phosphate remover(GFO, dont get an iron based one). There is no other long term option other then being really lucky and having so many growing SPS that THEY use up your phosphates, but most people dont have that goin for them =P Usually its the algae that is able to gain the upper hand and not the corals.
As far as the reactor is concerned, id put the carbon before the phopshate remover just to try to make the phopshate media last a little longer. Pay close attention to the dosing instructions. The BIGGEST mistake people make with phosphate removers is that they try to use too much of it off the bat, and it works far too well and their phosphates drop too quickly and their corals start to have problems because they arent so used to such phosphate deffecient water.

Peace,
Jesse
 
thanks for the help. i will be ordering a canisetr this weekend and some phosphate remover. ill post some pixs when i get the algea under control thanks again
 
I had a problem with my phosphates, & I ended up adding a PHOSBAN REACTOR to my tank, with a micro-jet pump to run the reactor off of my sump with some filter media by the same company, (two little fishies) & my phosphates went to zero after a few days with this thing running... I use it all the time now.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~~action~view~idProduct~TL4311~idCategory~FIFRISPR~category~Two_Little_Fishies_Phosban_Reactor_150_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Filters_Inline__Specialty_Phosphate_Reactors~vendor~.html
 
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