Possible white spot

[trillyen]

trillyen you cracked me up!!! And by the way I wish I could have a cool tank like the one in your avatar.

LOL, what can i say i try

cant take all the credit though buttrfly gurl is the professional comedian im just the under study.lol


thanks on the tank compliment also, but i think its actually a modest size tank for this hobby

compared to the one im saving up for its really nothing

i have a 2000 gl tank in the works real real soon

and before that im gonna get a 5 or 6 hundred gl reef tank!!!

thanks for the compliment though!!

 

[idgy]

"Use a suitably clean tank or a setup/establish quarantine tank. The size should 'fit' the fish to be treated. About 5 gallons per inch of fish works out okay for this treatment, except for large adult Angelfishes, Tangs, and Rabbitfishes. For them, it would be better to use the ratio of 9 gallons per inch".

If I did it this way I would need about 100 gallons for a QT and right now the fish I have are in a 58 gallon.

What size QT should I get for a jawfish, flame angel, clown fish, royal gramma and fire fish? About 15 inches of fish.

Is there any thing else other MI that would cause fish to rub against rock and stuff.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

I posted a link to this thread onto your wound thread in Lee's forum. He really is who should be answering your Qs. In my humble opinion, your nano idea or better yet, a 35 gallon long with a hang on back filter should be fine.

 

[idgy]

Thanks very much

 

[Scooterman]

Moved the thread to Lee's forum, I thought it was there already so I didn't bother checking into this thread, I'm sure Lee will take a peek later.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

Thanks Scoot, you are the best!

 

[Scooterman]

Well I read through most of this thread, I would think it is best to get Lee involved here & help Idgy out, lets let Lee advise Idgy at this point, I see too many conflictions & this isn't going to be as helpful as one well fish educated & dedicated expert that we have here Not that the help was bad just more directed on one solution.

 

[idgy]

Thanks guys! I am a bit confused as to what I should do at this point. I have several options running through my head. I do not want to wait much longer. It is only two fish in the tank the seem to be rubbing against the rocks and I really do not see much in the way of white spots.

This is all so new to me and just want to make the right choices and I really do appreciate everyone's input.

 

[leebca]

idgy,

You have good questions all. It isn't reasonable to try and take you through what to do on a step by step basis when the detailed recommendations are already posted. This means you have to do a lot of reading and comprehension. If you don't believe what you read, then you're on your own. If you don't read the references, then you're on your own. If you have questions about anything covered in the references, then we're here to help.

You think you have diagnosed the fish in the display tank with Marine Ich Cryptocaryon irritans. Diagnosis is the first step to a successful treatment.

Now you have to learn about what Marine Ich is all about and what has been learned about this parasite over the last 75+ years. Here is a summary of that information I want you to read AND learn: Marine Ich - Myths and Facts.

Now that you've read the above, you realize ALL fish in the display have to be treated. Marine Ich isn't just where you see it -- it also infects and hides in the fish's gills. In fact, that is where it prefers. Having read the above, you know there are only 3 nearly 100% methods for curing. Of those, two are the most commonly used by aquarists: hyposalinity or copper. Want to understand about each treatment? Read these references:
A Fish Hyposalinity Treatment, and
Copper Medications - Good, Bad, and Ugly.

The best treatment for fish is the hyposalinity treatment. But you should have a refractometer to do it correctly.

Now that you've read the above information and treatment processes, it is time to get a hospital tank or a few hospital tanks up and running. A hospital tank is much like a quarantine tank. Here is how to set one up: A Quarantine Procedure.

Since your QTs won't have an active biological filter, you'll need to do water changes or provide chemical filtration to remove ammonia and nitrites during the treatment.

I'll answer any question(s) you have, happily, but you need to do some homework and a lot of reading. Since fish can die from Marine Ich, I suggest you get into this as soon as possible and get one or more hospital tanks set up and running.

Once all fish are out of the marine system/display tank, leave the tank fishless for 8 weeks and it will be Marine Ich-free (as mentioned in the above reference).

Please read! Good luck!