RBTA Care

[SaltwaterNoobs]

Was wondering what light parameters are necessary for an RBTA? I keep reading that anemones in general like low light and low flow. Just wondering if that applied to RBTA's as well. We just got our 55 gallon tank up and running and properly cycled and were thinking of moving the RBTA to the other tank so it has more options of where to settle, as opposed to the 35 gallon it is currently in that is more deep than it is long, with considerably less space or live rock to mount on. We were wondering if we'd have to get a specific light for the RBTA if moved.

Also, on a side note, can a clownfish prevent the anemone it is hosting from splitting? I can't tell if this RBTA is trying to split or not. Looks like it starts to, then our clownfish wiggles his way in there and then the anemone looks like it sort of "pops" out where it was starting to split. Wasn't sure if I was "misreading" the anemone, or if the clownfish is interfering.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Krish]

Not sure about the RBTA itself, but my friend has kept wild caught anemones under pc lighting and also under metal halides before. Both seemed to do alright. Where lighting and flow is concerned, the anemone will move to a place in the tank they find the conditions most favorable to them so too much or too little of either they will move. Here's a bump back to the top though for you so that those keeping RBTA's might see it and chime in. I am not at all experienced with keeping RBTA's

 

[NC2WA]

I have a pair of clownfish in a RBTA, and my anemone has split 6 times. Mine are under 250w MH and doing fine.

the follow link gives you an idea of the RBTAs that are in my tank:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7329275@N05/4396843374/

It has split once more since this pic. I have a total of 7 dinner plate sized RBTAs.

 

[Inconservatory]

My RBTA had nearly bleached completely! Now under 250w 20k halide, three 420nm actinic T5HOs, and a 6700k T5 (all 54watts), she's bouncing back. I had noticed that she started splitting and getting color back into the parting side. Now, however, she looks as if the zooxanthelle is spreading to the other side, and she has not split.

I read a lot of conflicting information. The old school method of thought is to just feed them, and don't worry about the lighting. More research and opinions are leaning towards stronger lighting for a healthy anemone. Since they are an organism symbiotic with microalgaes, I would lean towards the later.

That being said about the lighting, I also feed her half a silverside every 1-2 weeks. Feedings were much more frequent before she got her color back, feeding only mysis and other smaller meaty bits.

As far as flow goes: Nothing too heavy. Just enough to move new water in, and waste water out.

Good luck.

 

[MrGone]

I have had mine for about 18 months, for the first 4 months I kept it under a 96w 10k PC in a 40 breeder and it did pretty good, grew a bit but nothing like it does in my 150g with 3x250w 20k MH.

I have not supplemental fed it anything for well over a year. It gets pieces of mysis every now and then if the fish don't gobble it up first. It started at 4" after about 8 months was at 6" when I moved it from my 40b to my 150g, now it is about 15".

 

[Holygral]

I have 3 RBTA, the longest one for 4 or 5 years. They are in a 125 under 2 x 250 MH. Probably in medium flow, although all 3 are in the same general area, all three are at different heights in the tank. Seldom target feed, never had one split, largest is about 8 inches in dia., clowns only host the large one, they never go to the other 2 even though they are only inches away. I have noticed that the one closet to the lights seems to be growing faster than the other 2. Could be the lighting or possibly he is more in the flow of food? Maybe both

 

[amjc]

I have had a RBTA for the last two years and had it split 3 times, all while being hosted in by a pair of clowns. I agree with inconservatory on the flow. I have moderate flow on mine and have not had a problem with it moving on me. Although I have had friends who have had much higher flow as well which has not been a problem. I first kept the RBTA under a 4x24w pc fixture on my 20 gallon and it currently is under a 8 bulb T-5 fixture. It looked great in both instances.

 

[returnofsid]

Was wondering what light parameters are necessary for an RBTA? I keep reading that anemones in general like low light and low flow.

Not sure where you're reading than anemones, in general, like low light. Anemones are among the higher light demanding creatures. I would rank them up there, with SPS, in general.

While I have kept an RBTA under PC lighting, for quite some time, successfully, I'd never recommend it, as a rule of thumb.

Among the anemones we keep in our hobby, I'd rank RBTA as the lowest light demanding, or at least able to survive, under less light, than most other anemone.

As for flow, I've had RBTAs in moderate to high flow, and they do just fine.

Since your 55 is a new set up, I'd suggest waiting to move your RBTA. Anemones require well established, mature tanks. Typically, your anemone be much better off, if you allow your tank to mature 6-12 months, before introducing any anemone.

I don't believe that the clownfish will prevent an anemone from splitting. Keep in mind, an anemone splitting, is usually caused by the animal being stressed or injured. It's not really as natural a form of reproduction, as it's seen much less often, in the wild, than in our aquariums.

 

[NC2WA]

IMO, clownfish will not prevent the RBTA from splitting. I have a pair of ocellaris clowns hosting in several and it has split 7 times.

 

[TheKraken]

My RTBA is doing fine under T5HO and VHO. I have a "marlin/coral tank" and wanted an RTBA on the "dropoff". I put the RTBA in first in hopes he would settle down and he went right for a cave at the bottom of the rock in low flow. Wanting the center of the tank back, I rescaped to have a cave at the far end and he splits and then moves to the top of the rock pile (high light direct powerhead)...

So far so good and I have two RTBA on the dropoff.

Can you move the rock and the RTBA as a unit into the new tank? They seem to have a preference for attachment.

 

[Gabriel121]

info here
http://home.att.net/~karenssaltwater/wsb/index.html

 

[206REEFer]

rbta care

my rbtas are very bubbly! I feel that overload the lighting and have a very happy nem! alk helps with stringy ones with my experience. im rocking dual pfo 400s mh 20k on a 90! lol plus a pair of 96watt pfo pc's! talk about overkill but everything in my tank is doing great!