Sequence Dart for closed loop

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

that sounds pretty cool...do you have a pic of the manifold with the barb fittings???
 
Does this help? It is just 2- 2" PVC 4-way connectors joined on one end with 1" threaded caps. I did use some 90 barb elbows but did not put that in pic.
 
that's not what i pictured in my head....did you run hoses off the barbs or something???? was this in the tank, above it, behind it???
 
oh wait, your tank is drilled isn't it????? mine's not..i will be running the plumbing over the top of the tank
 
The manifold was above the tank and I ran flex out to all the locline outlets. This is not a drilled tank. It is over the top.
 
I just bought scotts 150 and it's plumbed with a sequence 5000. Flow is unbelievable. Very happy.
 
No back pressure except for the friction losses in the plumbing. size/length of th e pipe, and any 90's bulkheads, valves, unions.... Basically anything that will restrict flow.

I would think of it as how hard it is to push some water out of a syringe. the bigger the outlet, the easier it is to push (less head pressure).

reefcentral.com has a head calculator that will let you play around with different combinations. Unfortunatly they don't have the dart in the list. It would best to find the pump with a similar flow curve to play with. The flow curve is the amount of water that the pump will flow with a given head pressure. (the more water you try to push through the pipes, the higher the head pressure).

You can use www.marinedepot.com to look at different pumps and their flow curves to fine one that fits the pump you are looking at. Or you could ask the guys over a reef central to update the calculator with the sequence pumps.

I just got my dart and it is great. Much quieter than the Quiet One 6000 I had before, and a lot of flow! Unfortunately I have mostly 1" pipes in my closed loop under my tank. One day I will have to upgrade :) But that would be a little more of a project than replacing the Quiet One that bit it.

Jack
 
i am thinking of using flex-pvc for part of my CL..is this a good or bad idea??? i need some thoughts on it

I use flex as well. Pump vibrations can transmit thru PVC and cause excessive noise. So, I use it at the pump intake just after ball/union which is directly attached to pump. It comes out of the pump horizontally and sweeps upward 90 deg with the natural bend of the flex. Then, I have two 1 1/2" intakes from the back of the tank plumbed with flex after bh fitting sweeping over and connecting into 2" PVC 4 way with a barbed fitting that attaches to the flex which is coming up from the floor as previously mentioned, and the last connection of the 4 way used with ball valve for tank draining.

I also use it on the output side up to my "calfo manifold". I run 1 1/2" straight up the back into a 1 1/2" tee (wish I had a Y fitting) that is necked down on either output to 1". I use barbed fittings and flex pvc to loop those into the back my canopy (with ball/union connections for easy removal), and into a 1" PVC barb at either end. The manifold fits exactly to the interior dimmensions of my canopy so it doesn't move. The 1" pvc has (6) 3/4" nozzles with loc lines, and 2 of those loc lines are divided into two more.
 
i just realized that i can have my intake going into my sump!!! this will eliminate the unsightly intake into the main display..don't ask why i never thought of that!! i am going to just build a manifold, similar to the Calfo manifold and have numerous outlets going into the tank.......i am concerned that i may have backpressure on my pump if i don't have a ton of outlets...will this hurt a Dart pump at all?????
 
Not at all Ron, The sequence reeflo series are low head pressure and can be restricted with no ill effect. Your definatley on the right track, when we talked about this on the phone it was the conclusion I came to as well. remember?
 
i just realized that i can have my intake going into my sump!!! this will eliminate the unsightly intake into the main display..don't ask why i never thought of that!! i am going to just build a manifold, similar to the Calfo manifold and have numerous outlets going into the tank.......i am concerned that i may have backpressure on my pump if i don't have a ton of outlets...will this hurt a Dart pump at all?????

If your trying to do a CL, it would no longer be a CL, you would need to consider a siphon break. I may of missed your intent here?
 
I’m confused on two points as well...:confused:
#1... I thought and could swear I’ve read elsewhere that it’s not recommended to use loc-line above the water surface yet now I’ve seen at least two pictures from different people that prove otherwise.
#2... So by doing this you’re planning to increase the flow through your sump Ron?
 
So by doing this you’re planning to increase the flow through your sump Ron?
no, my intake will come from the sump...the outputs will go into the display...it all goes to the same place anyway...also, Scooter, i was looking at my CL that is currently on my tank..i have a siphon break, but i just realized that it would have to drain my entire sump and then some from the display before the siphon break actually worked..the way i am thinking of doing it now is to just have the intake coming from the sump..that is where the water levelk is going to actually fluctuate anyway..the siphon break in my display is basically useless..i will lose 45g of water befroe it works!!! tell me what you think of my idea
 
as long as the loc-line is over the water, what little seepage there is, it isn't much to worry about.
If you run your flow through the sump & rely on your drain to drain that much more water, you would need to make sure the drain pipe can handle the extra flow. Unless he is intending on flowing the sump & main tank off that one pump but regardless the drain must be considered, also vertical head loss, you loose that in an open system. That is the reasons why you want a CL over a open system! It is done that way many times & it works but I wouldn't want to do it that way for these reasons & also as a more secure way of keeping flow through the main tank, with or without the sump flow but that is a personal design!
 
Ahh just saw your last post!
Ron I would personally keep the sump return separated from your flow. I consider sump return for practical uses, like supplying a place for the skimmer to collect detritus, a place for a heater etc but for Flow I would not rely on the return for that because as mentioned above. You suck water from the sump, & dump it in the main display, you need to consider, that it will be open, it will have vertical head loss, It you ever have to isolate your sump, you have to shut your suction down, thus stopping all flow in your tank, unless you have PH's in there! JMO!
 
Hey Ron, look at the Intake cover I made out of free scrap acrylic, it is in my showcase tank thread, I would tweak it slightly but it looks really nice! I could help with that idea if you need to make it look even better, I should of thought about that some more before I cut the pieces.
 
you are right about my overflows not being able to handle the extra drainage..i didn't even think about that!!!!! i got to Lowes and called Krish to ask him about the output size..he said something about my drains being able to handle the extra flow, and it clicked all of a sudden..mt drains can't handle the extra water..i am going to go over the top with the intake...i just bought most of my stuff..i am going to go ahead and build the manifold part tonight..i will work on the rest when the pump gets here tomorrow!!
 
???? I was wondering as I was reading through. It would take some monster drains to supply that much water.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top