should or shouldn't

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charlie h

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Oct 15, 2007
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I was wondering if that if my tank has a realy bad case of cynobacteris and i can't find a good supply of water for water changes, should i stop doing them and let it burn it's self out. I no i will have to top up the evaperated water but there's nothing i can do about that untill i can afford a good ro unit. The water that i have been putting in has a nitrate 15ppm and phosphate .1ppm and my tank water is nitrate 0ppm and phosphate .05ppm. So either the tank is doing it's job and getting rid of the bad water or the cynobacteria is using it up before i'm getting a chance to test for it........
 
You can get a ro/di unit for around $100. In the mean time can you get distilled water from the grocery store? Can you add a powerhead to increase flow that can help keep the cyno down
 
i'll try and get some distilled water. At the minute i have a 300 lph ruturn from sump, seio 3500lph, hydor 600lph and two maxi jet 1200lph. The tank is 550 litres.
Do you mix your own salt water if so can you tell me about it..
what you mix it in
how much you mix at a time
how long you leave it for after mixing
Sorry for all the questions but i don't mix my own at the minute and it's getting expensive and would like to do my own...
 
Where are you? I have two large rubbermaid trash cans in my garage. One for ro/di and one for mixing salt. Mixing saltwater, heat to tank temp, have pump for mixing the water,air pump and stone. You get synthetic salt like Instant Ocean. Let mix over night then do tank change. you also need a way to measure your salinity.
 
I'm in the east of england.. I can get some rubber bins a spare pump and a air pump or stone. Plus i've all ready got my refractometer. I just always thought it had to be mixed for a week or so before. Also is ther any trpe of container you no of to avoid, for exapmle one that would contaminate water
 
I use the 32 gallon rubbermaids that are grey in color(food grade). I do a minimum of 24 hrs the longer is better if you are pumping air into. you want to match you temp ph calicum and alk levels when changing water.
 
thanks for your help. The water i'm using has got to be the reason for my cyano. i've had it 6-7 months and it's out of control.
 
i do sypon it out but it starts showing signd agin within 1-2 hours. Heres a picture of it the day after i syponed every little bit out and scubed it wit tooth brush and all the rock was showing it's coraline algae all the corals were looking healthy. tell us what you think Bad or not
pinkcorsa236.jpg

pinkcorsa240.jpg

pinkcorsa241.jpg
 
As you siphon the cyano out you are exporting the nutrients that feed it. As you replace your water with distilled water you deplete the nutrients. Also cut down on your feeding if you can.
 
I'm back again with the same old questions but a good reply to this might help me solve my problem..
So how can you tell the difference between cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates because i've been told by so many different people that i've got one thing and somthing else by the other. And the treatments for two seem completly different.
 

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