So I gots the hair algae...
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look up a algae scrubber easy to fabricate all parts are common fish tank equip. and the process is the same ur thinking about grow algae in the sump or in a location so it don't grow elsewhere. works great ill try to find the thread on here about them.
here it is lots of different types, science, theory and whatnot
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums...ate-green-hair-bubble-turf-slime-algae-64356/
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums...ate-green-hair-bubble-turf-slime-algae-64356/
pinkfloydfan
Active member
No, you keep the skimmer. If you would like a simple solution that absolutely works, try carbon dosing. You have to use some caution as to not overdose the tank but it will eradicate the algae. I didn't like what I read about Vodka as the carbon source so I ended up going with NO3
O4-X made by Red Sea. After tweaking the dose for your particular set up, it is quite easy.pitkat
Well-known member
I like the sound of the Red sea NO3O4-X. going to give that a try :biggrin: Anyone used it that can give some input ?
O4-X. going to give that a try :biggrin: Anyone used it that can give some input ?
DonW
R.I.P.
All these dosing method pose the same risks it doesnt matter if you bought it at an aquarium store or liquor store. You mention rubble in the sump. Pick that stuff up and give it a shake, look for detritus. Rubble in the sump can cause issues itself throughout the entire system. If your looking for a method to quickly dump P look at Lanthanum Chloride and your skimmer. If you have a good skimmer the P will precip and be skimmed. BUT the reality is if your having issues there is a problem that needs to be addressed rather than looking for a fix in a bottle.
Don
Don
pinkfloydfan
Active member
I am using it. Simplifies things tremendously. If you have a hair algae or other algae (with exception of bryopsis and turf which it only stops but doesn't get rid of) it is a great solution. As a carbon dosing method, I like it better than Vodka, it's less dangerous to the tank. NO3I like the sound of the Red sea NO3
O4-X is great as a stand alone maintenance or in conjunction with a phosphate reactor.
DonW
R.I.P.
Its no "less dangerous". Its nothing more than a carbon source. Feeding additional carbon does nothing more than increase the bacterial count above the bacteria count that the system is capable of maintaining on its own. It poses the same risk of crash. Algae is nothing more than an imbalance. When you have more food than the bacteria can consume algae will thrive on that extra food source. All tanks have a balance. All your doing by adding the carbon source is a creating a balancing act without a net. Your making up for excess, your system is no healthier. The idea behind these carbon dosing methods is to give an already healthy balanced system that little extra kick to brighten up corals. Its not a fix or maintenance item. Fix the nutrient problem and you have a healthy more stable system. With carbon dosing you stop dosing and you have the same problem you started with in addition to a bacterial die off which will lead to a crash.
Don
Don
NanaReefer
Well-known member
Spinner
Reef
OPTIONS
I agree with DonW and would remove your rubble as is and move to something along this line (rubble bag). Allows for it use and is easy to clean as rubble with trap big time.
Refugiums work well when using a rooted macro algae and it sized per DT.
Algae Turf Scrubbers work well if set up right now with red leds and cfl bubs it a slam dunk.
Setting one up now will not remove algae already in DT but will allow larger nutrients for the future.
A lot of good information online with how to get hair algae out of DT.
* This pod bag was a DIY from another hobbiest at RF. I thought it was a neat idea when wanting to use rubble, just clean when wanted during a water change.........shake....shake....shake....shake your poddy
I agree with DonW and would remove your rubble as is and move to something along this line (rubble bag). Allows for it use and is easy to clean as rubble with trap big time.
Refugiums work well when using a rooted macro algae and it sized per DT.
Algae Turf Scrubbers work well if set up right now with red leds and cfl bubs it a slam dunk.
Setting one up now will not remove algae already in DT but will allow larger nutrients for the future.
A lot of good information online with how to get hair algae out of DT.
* This pod bag was a DIY from another hobbiest at RF. I thought it was a neat idea when wanting to use rubble, just clean when wanted during a water change.........shake....shake....shake....shake your poddy
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1guydude
Well-known member
W/c s... good flow....good skimmer.
I'd do a larger than normal one if ur growing algae now.
Than some more frequent small ones or normal schedule or watever ir comfy with lol.
HA can b a pita. Good luck and keep us posted!
I'd do a larger than normal one if ur growing algae now.
Than some more frequent small ones or normal schedule or watever ir comfy with lol.
HA can b a pita. Good luck and keep us posted!
pitkat
Well-known member
I always thought I had hair algae but I'm now thinking it's Bryopsis :doh: Been fighting it for about 5 months and despite my best efforts it has overtaken the whole tank. I have not cleaned the inside of the glass in the last 6 weeks as algae will not grow in my tank but that Bryopsis is everywhere :frown:
I read a post that raising the magnesium levels to about 1600 ppm will kill Bryopsis off. Has anyone tried this? What is the main difference between Bryopsis and hair algae?
I read a post that raising the magnesium levels to about 1600 ppm will kill Bryopsis off. Has anyone tried this? What is the main difference between Bryopsis and hair algae?
1guydude
Well-known member
U can google each for pics.
Byropsis u should get.a lettuce nudibranch. Than after its eatin and found a new home. Do the w/c s.
Hths
D
Byropsis u should get.a lettuce nudibranch. Than after its eatin and found a new home. Do the w/c s.
Hths
D
rainydave
Chimp in Space......
Interesting, I hadn't heard that a lettuce nudibranch would eat byropsis.
DonW
R.I.P.
Lettuce Nudi's are hit and miss. Its not a sure thing and if the bryopsis is bad one will not keep up. Raising Mg will not kill byropsis. Its Kent tech M that kills byropsis, something in the tech M not the MG. Use kent tech M to raise your mg up to about 1800 and keep it there until the byropsis is gone. 1800 is the level at where what ever is in the tech M that kills it is high enough to kill. It may take weeks but it will kill it. BUT while this goes on you need to keep a closer watch on your equipment the precip is going to be much higher so you will have to clean those pumps.
Don
Don
BarrierReef
Member
I have a book on algae and according to the methods of control for Bryopsis is to lower ammonia and nitrates. Increase filtration and it can be controled byherbivores such as the rabbitfish, urchins and the emeral crab, the sea hare's are not effective and many snails will not consume large amounts.
BarrierReef
Member
Enteromorha is similar to Bryopsis and is harder to control, the method of corntrl is by lowering the temperature to the low 70's and raising the alkalinity to 10 to 14 and keeping it high. This may work for Bryopsis as well.
Boomer
Well-known member
I have a book on algae and according to the methods of control for Bryopsis is to lower ammonia and nitrates.
You need to go back and read what Julian wrote. Enteromorpha is not similar to Bryopsis at all. They are not even in the same taxonomic class. Looking similar, in apperance, does not mean similar biologically.
You need to go back and read what Julian wrote. Enteromorpha is not similar to Bryopsis at all. They are not even in the same taxonomic class. Looking similar, in apperance, does not mean similar biologically.
