Stand Build Project

[DonW]

That glue you used is good glue for fine wood work but not construction.

Eew not for fine woodworking. Its good for outdoor stuf like deck chairs or boat stuff. Tight Bond 3 is the best out there for this type of stuff but with 2x you dont really get a good joint unless you joint the edges off anyways since they are not square. Urac 185 is for the good stuff. No matter what glue you use the wood to wood contact is the most important part of getting a strong glue joint.

Don

 

[Frankie]

This is good stuff

Urac 185.....

 

[dieden]

LOL frankie, thats a studious learner right there. You even found a graphic to show just how studious

 

[07FocusST]

King Neptune: Your stand is 100% exactly how mine will be in the end. I will be adding a few pieces to vertically support the center.

 

[King_Neptune]

Yes, they are extremely important. It prevents it from twisting and eventually buckling under the weight.

 

[07FocusST]

Hey guys, I will be heading out to Home Depot here soon to get a few pieces of lumber to continue the build. This weekend should produce much progress.

King Neptune.... Thanks a bunch for posting your pictures. It really help me with this build. I had the picture in my head on how it was supposed to look but then you posted your pictures and it was like an exact copy.

 

[07FocusST]

Tonights update: If you happen to notice it, the brackets on the frame are only temporarily screwed in. I need shorter screws. Again, sorry for the bad picture quality.

Stand Frame

44" Tall (For now!)

Boom Baby!!!!

Some Brackets

My Instructions

 

[Krish]

So far so good!!

 

[07FocusST]

BTW, Thanks again to King Neptune for posting your pictures. It made this build alot easier. I have instructions for a canopy build (first picture of paper) which I got from Garf.Org if anyone was wondering.

Thanks Krish, I started at 5:00pm today and just ended at 8:00pm. Got alot done, and in 32F Temperatures in my Garage!!!

 

[johnpeezy]

I noticed that you were using a level on your stand while in the build phase...

Generally you would want to be more concerned about true (flat) cut and perfect angles when building furniture. if your concerned more with making your stand level as opposed to lining up your corners and having flat cuts, you may be shooting yourself in the foot unless your planning on setting up your tank right where you build it.(your stand will only be as plumb as the ground you build it on, garages generally have a grade to them that can throw you all out of whack)

hold on to that level. When your done and use it when your deciding where to place your tank setup in your house.

 

[King_Neptune]

BTW, Thanks again to King Neptune for posting your pictures. It made this build alot easier.

Dont forget to add the top layer:

 

[07FocusST]

I wont King Neptune. It was about 8:00pm when I called it quits. The twins usually go to sleep around that time and a chop saw tends to be quite noisy. I need to get some 1" deck screws today and continue the build.

 

[07FocusST]

King_Neptune, again I am no Pro at carpentry and what not. Did you seem to run into small issues like I have? It seems that either my Chop Saw is off or the old eye isn't as good as it used to be. I measured out all my pieces and cut each individual piece with my chop saw. Ended up being like 1/16" under. Not too sure why., anyway I guess the biggest question would be: When you lined up all your boards and assembled them together, was there some (keyword some) overhang? I have a few pieces like this but I am confident that I can go back and line it up better to make the part flush with each other.

Also, on your second posted picture on this page. I wont be able to add that yellow line you made on your picture. Otherwise I will end up with a stand that has 2 front door and 1 side door. I would like to keep 2 front and 2 side doors if possible. I need atleast 16.5" width on my side door opening to allow my 100G sump to pass thru the stand.

 

[King_Neptune]

An overlap is just cosmetics. In the end 1/16th isn't that big of a deal.Especially with the addition 0f finish work. A planer can trim it up as well.

As for the yellow lines, I ended up not doing that cross bracer either. System holds just fine together. Its been standing over a year with no trouble.

 

[07FocusST]

I think that I am trying to be a perfectionist at something I have never done before. I had a few bumps but went back and fixxed them. I have a few minor things left but I just wanted to make sure that building a stand isn't one of those things that has to be 100% square and perfectly flat. Keeping in mind that there isn't alot of room for error of course.

Thanks for all your help! No work yesterday of today... I will keep this thread updated.

 

[DonW]

I measured out all my pieces and cut each individual piece with my chop saw. Ended up being like 1/16" under. Not too sure why

If you put the tooth on your line and its always a hair off then your blade is flexing under rotation. This happens alot with blades that are to thin.

Don

 

[07FocusST]

I end up check the most inside part of the cut to be made to make sure that I wont go and over cut the piece. I think part of the problem is that I am using a sharpe to make my lines.

I am using a 200T Finishing cut blade if that makes a difference.

 

[DonW]

I end up check the most inside part of the cut to be made to make sure that I wont go and over cut the piece. I think part of the problem is that I am using a sharpe to make my lines.

I am using a 200T Finishing cut blade if that makes a difference.

Use a pencil or scribe. If its still off then its the blade. Some saws spin to fast for some blades. Chop/miter saw are a construction saw so a hair here and there doesn't matter when your building walls. I'm sure with this frame its not going to matter much either.
I just tossed it out so you can get it worked out before you start the finish work.

Don

 

[Frankie]

Yeah, a pencil is a must tool when building these things I think a sharpie is just over 1/16" thick and not consistent.
If I am doing fine work I like to use a knife to score the wood first to avoid flare outs in the cuts.
Now if your still getting cuts a 16th under then start marking & cutting a 16th over

 

[07FocusST]

got it.....