Standpipe Too Slow

[sytnom]

Hi all.
I had to restrict the flow from my sump to keep the main display from overflowing. The water wasn't emptying out of my overflow boxes fast enough.
I have tinkered with several things, here is the run down:
There are (2) 1" holes which are plumbed with 3/4" lines going to sump. The stand pipes are 1" pipe with a "T" and a cap on top. There is a "Street EL" in the "T" completes the durso standpipe disign. I drilled a hole in each of the 2 caps and inserted air tubing into each with a valve to control air flow. (hopefully that is a good enough description-I didn't even think to take a picture until I was already at work)
The flow stays even, and I have messed with all the combinations of air flow to see if I could speed up the flow. The ONLY thing that speeds up the flow is to totally remove the stand pipes and let the water drain through the 3/4" bulkhead in the bottom of the outside overflow chamber.
So, now for the question:
How do I speed up the standpipe flow without having to remove the standpipe all together? I did not have this problem on the last overflow I had.

Thank you,
Monty

 

[mfinn]

I'm just making a wid guess, but have you tried cutting off a 1" or so of the lenght of the 1" pvc pipe to make the whole thing shorter?

 

[Scooterman]

You can always recirculate some water in the sump from the outlet of the return pump to slow things down some, use that outlet for a skimmer or something else also.

 

[sytnom]

Problem is that the pump is about 1150 gph. THe overflow should handle 1200 gph. I had to throttle back the pump to 1/2 or less with a ball valve. Like I said, the standpiep seems to be the problem. If I pull it off, my flow is good, just VERY noisy (thus the invention of the standpipe. )
So, how do I increase flow through the standpipe?

 

[sytnom]

I'm just making a wid guess, but have you tried cutting off a 1" or so of the lenght of the 1" pvc pipe to make the whole thing shorter?

If I shorten the standpipe at all, the u-tubes will lose siphon if I lose power. (Same problem if I remove the stand pipe, even if I could stand the noise.

 

[mfinn]

If I shorten the standpipe at all, the u-tubes will lose siphon if I lose power. (Same problem if I remove the stand pipe, even if I could stand the noise.

This is a drilled tank right?

 

[Scooterman]

Sounds like two 1" lines are sorta tight, have you seen the stand pipe design web-site?

 

[sytnom]

NO, It's not a drilled tank. I have overflow boxes. The tank is tempered.

Also, the lines are 3/4" the standpipes are 1"

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

check these out, there is two designs, I like the stockman myself over the durso.

 

[mfinn]

NO, It's not a drilled tank. I have overflow boxes. The tank is tempered.

Also, the lines are 3/4" the standpipes are 1"

My mistake.

You might want to check this out.
The guy made this with outside overflow boxes in mind.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/domitron2/HGB/HGB_construction.html

 

[sytnom]

Okay, now I think we are on the same page, Ilike I said in the first post, I built a Durso style stand pipe.

So, When we talk about a 1" bulkhead fitting, are we talking about the size of the hole the fitting fits in (i.e. the size of the hole drilled in the overflow box) or are we talking about the size of piep the fitting goes with?

 

[mfinn]

So, When we talk about a 1" bulkhead fitting, are we talking about the size of the hole the fitting fits in (i.e. the size of the hole drilled in the overflow box) or are we talking about the size of piep the fitting goes with?

When I say 1" bulkhead fitting, I mean the size of pipe that goes in the bulkhead fitting

 

[sytnom]

So, my 1" hole has a 1" pipe fitting on the top (insode of box) and a 3/4" in fitting on the outside (bottom) - it's a reducer fitting. SHouldn't this work? It worked on my last tank. ????

 

[mfinn]

I've never had good luck with outside overflow boxes, so I've usually ended up drilling my tanks.

I would try one of the other standpipe options.
Hopefully someone else has better suggestions.

 

[Slickdonkey]

I have dual Dursos on my tank and was having the same problem as you. What I found to work is to make sure the drain pipe is under the water surface in the sump. This creates more bubbles but I believe also creates a siphon and the water flows faster.

Keep in mind by many accounts I've read, I don't think this is necessarily how Dursos are supposed to work. Could be something unique about my setup, but it works for me.

 

[sytnom]

I already have them submerged. I am so confused. It really shouldn't be this hard to figure out, especially since I have done it before.

 

[Scooterman]

I would try one of two things first try remove the tubing and letting more air in, fix the flow problem first then work on quietening the thing up. My first durso was loud so I changed over to the stockman design & was much happier with that, also if you do try it use 1 1/4" pipe after the 3/4" BH reducer if you have the room.

 

[Brenden]

Sounds to me like it is just not getting enough air through the top hole.

 

[sytnom]

If I remove the air tube or pull the cap, the water level rises pretty high and the inside o/f box level rises also.

I may have to rebuild the standpipe using 1 1/4" instead of 1".

I'm looking seriously at the stockman design.

I also agree in balancing flow before quieting it down, I'm trying to do both at the same time, and I should limit it o one problem at a time.

Thanks,
Monty

 

[Brenden]

Were is the water line in comparison to the "U" in the pipe? Does it get comkpletely submerged or does the top of the "U" stay above the waterline?