Sump Design and Flow Rates.

[MINIATUS]

I just recieved my new tank and now I need to build a sump to handle the flow. My space is limited to a sump 16 wide x 46 long x14 high. the tank is a 90gal with a Mag 24 for the return line.
Will this size of sump handle the flow or is there a formula to figure this out. Second question is if the sump is 14 inchs high I need to install a section for the water that is coming into the sump, how high should it be and how wide. Best way to break up the bubbles that will be present. Should there be a section for the return pump or can it just sit in the sump anywhere. Any ideas would be greatfully be appreciated. Have I missed anything.

MINIATUS

 

[fishermann]

You can buy pretty good sumps from Blue Sierra, John at IAP can custom build you one and he knows how to design them for your needs. You have to decide if you want a refugiam in it, if you are going BB in the sump or DSB, also if you want to run a felt sock, what size protein skimmer you want to run and if you want it in the sump or externally. Also if you want to run fluidized cannisters for say phosgard and carbon. That is where someone like IAP can help design what you want for the system you want to run with the room you have. Another good source of them is Jeff at Lifereef.com

 

[NaH2O]

Check out our Reef Calculators section - here are a couple for ya. Hope they help a little bit....

Sump Volume Calculator

Head Loss Calculator

On my sump we did three sections. The water comes into the sump, and the skimmer is located in this section, then 2 baffles (under & over). Next, is a section for my probes and some live rock, then 2 baffles (under & over). Then, finally the return pump's section. I can't remember how we decided how high the baffles were going to be....I believe it was based on how deep the water needed to be in order for the skimmer to work efficiently. The baffles do a great job in controlling the bubbles, and live rock also aids in trapping the bubbles from continuing thru to the return.

Do you have any ideas on what you want to make your sump out of? Acrylic, glass tank, rubbermaid tub, etc?

 

[MINIATUS]

Thanks John
I already have a builder for the sump, because Im in Canada it its easier. Actually the only thing in the sump will be heaters Turbofloater skimmer, and since room is at a premium under the stand I might have to set a Reactor in there also. And a chemical section as you mentioned. A refuge will not be part of it.

MINIATUS

 

[MINIATUS]

3/8 Acrylic. Nikki also the sump would have 9 inchs of water to make the skimmer work at its best. Thanks for the info.

MINIATUS

 

[MINIATUS]

It was mentioned about a FELT SOCK .
What is it and what does it do.

Nikki if those charts are right my sump will handle it with no problem. Also this over/under thing with braking bubbles could explain a little more and how far apart they should be.

MINIATUS

 

[DonW]

It was mentioned about a FELT SOCK .
What is it and what does it do.

Felt sock in general are used on berlin type sumps. You can go as mild or as wild as you want with your sump. If you plan on going divided there are lots of schematics here that other people have posted.
Your water does not have to be 9" deep for the turbo-floater to work properly. The biggest thing with the turbofloater is it need to be plumbed properly in order to be efficient. A pump connected to the inlet is not how it should be done.
Your sump can be a simple 20 gallon glass aquarium , no dividers. You can plumb your tank to drain directly into a felt sock 8x12. Split the drain to run the turbo-floater. This insures only the nastiest of water goes in the skimmer. The skimmer output then falls into the sock. Throw in a return pump and heaters and your set. Probably the easiest and cheapest sump set-up.
I can post some pics if you would like. Leave room for the calcium reactor, you'll be greatful later.

Don

 

[MINIATUS]

Don
Thanks. Pics would be great. The whole purpose for the larger sump was to accomadate everything including a reactor.
That felt sock takes up a lot of room. So I would prefer to set aside a section for over/under style. large section for Reactor and skimmer and 2 heaters then a section for the return pump. Any ideas along this line would be greatly appreciated.
Question?? putting a sponge in where the water enters sump would that break the bubbles enough.Best way to allow for chemicals such a Phosphate Sponge and I use a Poly Bio Marine filter pad to recieve Max flow would help also.

MINIATUS

 

[DonW]

I dont understand why you would put a calcium reactor in your sump. With the recent success of products like ROWA. Its just plain more efficient to run them through a small fluidizing reactor, that can go out side the sump.

Don

 

[MINIATUS]

Don
You just lost me ROWA??? and fluidzing reactor??? Can you explain this to me. Sorry Im a little dense at times.

MINIATUS

 

[NaH2O]

Min - Rowaphos is an iron based phosphate sponge that helps control inorganic phosphates that are in the water. Here is a thread on Fluidized Reactors.

The distance between the baffles in my mind should be a few inches. You want to be able to get whatever you will use to siphon up detritus in between them. That will help you remove the gunk that has collected. I can actually get a powerhead between mine. What I noticed with the bubbles in my sump - they get stuck to the bottom of the first baffle as they make their way under.......then, on the next baffle they stick to the over part....or they get diffused across the surface when they come off the over baffle. I have not yet seen any bubbles that have made their way to the next set of baffles. The middle section is long enough that they have plenty of time to rise to the surface.

Here is a thread for you: Show me your Sump. My sump is towards the bottom of the first page. My return pump is a Mag 12 (if that helps)