Tank upgrade - need furniture finishing advice

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jesshimom

I have no fish.
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
2,323
Location
Lovely Lynnwood
Soooooo...... Scott says well "I was gonna" buy you a tank for Christmas but I wasn't sure.... :lol: :lol: He bought other wonderful goodies instead but got the wheels turning. So, after looking at some used setups and news ones here is what we ended up deciding.

90 gallon All-Glass Reef Ready with megaflow (I'm sick of acrylic scratches)

And, I preordered two of the vorteck thingies.

Here's where I need help. I am ordering tank furniture unfinished and wonder what is the best way to go. It's made of oak plywood with red oak trim. I've seen some painted white inside and I kind of like that idea. So how would I accomplish that? I need it to be as waterproof as possible because I'm as messy with water as they come.

I want the entire thing stained a medium oak color. All the furniture I've ever had from stores is never waterproofed enough and I get water damage inside. So what should I do here? Brand names would be a big help.. ;)

Thanks in advance for your help!

Colleen
 
Last edited:
There's a marine epoxy paint for boats that works great. Also, caulk all of the joints with a silicone caulk to prevent any water from seeking when the funiture settles and the seems separate a little. Nice gift!!!
 
I have always used a good quality brand of exterior latex paint.
While I know that the marine epoxy paint is meant for saltwater, I like to use latex paint to get away from epoxy fumes.
My current stand is appox 6 years old and the paint is holding up just like new.
Caulking all the inside seams is a really good idea.
 
Epoxy paint works great, Its more expensive though, also its paint, which works great on the inside. If you want a medium oak on the outside use a good stain, but just stain not a stain polyurethane blend. Minwax makes both stain and stain poly blends, so choose carefully. Once you have it stained use a high quality exterior polyurethane. Zar is one that comes to mind. One other thing to keep in mind is that you should keep water based stains with water based polys, and oil based stains with oil based poly. While you can use a oil based poly over a water based stain you have to let the stain cure at least a week if not longer to get good adhesion from the poly. Dont try to use a water based poly over a oil based stain. One other caution with water based stains is they will raise the grain of the wood even on oak. So one coat of stain then sand really fine 250 grit or higher, then stain again. Hope this helps. Happy staining. If you really are still not sure, a trip to Sherwin Williams, and the experts will help you select the proper finishes. They will even color match stain if you want to match another piece of furniture or trim. I highly recommend a professional paint store, not a big box store (lowes, Homedepot ect.). Have fun!
 
Great Paul that is what I was needing to know!

I'm excited to get the furniture, the guy is really nice and amazingly reasonable.

Colleen
 
Just to add to pauls post. When you are going to stain you want to use a material called Benite prior to stain. You can get it from a company called Dalys. What this does is penetrate the oak and fills the pores. This makes the stain go on very even so you dont get that blotchy look. If it were me I would go with the oil base wipping stain to the color you like and then one coat of gloss oil based urathane and then one coat of satin marine spar urathane as the final coat. I would do it both inside and out this way.


good luck


Mike
 
I was just rereading everything so I can collect supplies. Here is what I understand:

* Use Benite first
*Oil base wiping stain
*Coat of gloss oil based urathane
* final coat of marine spar urathane

Two questions -

I just wondered - will need I sand it after using the benite? According to the manufacturer it is completely sanded and ready for finish but I understand what Paul said I just dont want to sand at the wrong time.. .:)

On the actual stain - does it need more than one coat or one is enough if it looks good?

Ok make it three.... how long should I be waiting in between each application? Just until dry or a week to cure or what?

Sorry for all the questions but if it doesn't look good it isn't going in the house.. :)

Thanks very much,
Colleen
 
For one of the most natural darkened oak finish that really pulls out the fleck.

Wipe down with potasium dichromate sp?
2 coats deft sanding sealer
Spray to desired dept with deft.

Finish is water proof and repairable.

Don
 
I just finished a large building in Redmond where the whole damm lobby was natural wood, from vg fir to cherry to anagre, man if I never see another natural finish I will be a happy man.

Give the oak a feel, if it is smooth dont worry about sanding at the begining. The Benite is a clear product that you put on pretty heavy and allow for it to absorb. Wipe off any that wont penetrate after 5 minutes or so. Then wait 24 hours and apply the stain. Then another 24 and you can apply your first coat of clear, you can use the marine spar varnish for all coats if you wish. Now you can sand inbetween the clear coats, I usually use 300. So then every coat of clear you add make sure you sand between coats. A neat trick if you have the time is to use a gloss clear for the first coats and the a more satin finish for the final. This will give the wood a more depth in its looks.

Let me know at the meeting and I will set up up to get some from my supplier, I get it for about 50 to 70 % off.


Mike
 
We're on our way...

;)

The two packages came today and I was very impressed. The instructions made sense, except for one small issue but other than that it went together in no time.... It was a very easy with a little help from my friends. Ok, I'm making a list and we are off to get the supplies recommended above.

The wood is very nice and smooth and everything fit the way it's supposed to. I'm still amazed what I paid for it which included shipping. Definately better than what's in the stores and costs much less! :idea: :idea:
 
Good looking stand. I would love to have one like that.

Colleen,
I am not sure where you got the stand. But I like it alot.
 
I am curious, where did you get that stand pre fabed, I am getting tired of building them, and have to make one for a 125 next week with canopy, I would love to order one and just do the finish work... Oh ya, I'll second the benite!!!!
 
Here's a coupple pics of Colleen hard at the finishing work.....and the peanut gallery....LOL:lol:
Scott
 
Colleen does wood work too!

spongebob lover said:
it look like a really really nice stand and canopy
I can't wait to see it finished :)
Click to expand...
Very nice canopy and stand. Thanks Colleen and Scott for letting me see the how thick and nice it was built.
 
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