Tridacnid Work Shop

[Barry N.]

My question is based more on selection size. Are there better sizes to look for depending on species?

The smaller ones less than 2" are a little more hard to keep than the larger ones.

IME, Easiest to hard to keep.

1. Derasa
2. H.hippospus
3. Squamosa
4. gigas
5. crocea
6. maxima ( being the hardest to keep) cultured is always better than wild.

when selecting a specimen online, are there things we should be asking the vendor, since we are unable to see the clam in person?

How long have they had it and is it cultured or wild. What is the guarantee.

 

[Barry N.]

When inspecting a clam for health, check to see if the byssal (footing) is healthy such as the one below.

 

[Barry N.]

These parasitic snails can do serious damage to the clam and must not be allowed into your aquarium. This is some that were found around the footing of a clam.

 

[Barry N.]

Gapping is something that should also be considered but with some species such as Tridacna crocea and squamosa, gapping is not uncommon but if a Tridacna derasa or maxima gap, then I get concerned.

 

[chris&barb]

wow Barry!!!


Thats some serious Pyrams. i've found some on a clam or two in my time but i've never seen an egg sack.would you happen to have a pic of one.

Chris

 

[Barry N.]

Chris,

That was a few hours after we saw the sack. This guy was brough to us from a Marine that was being deployed and had to take his tank down.

 

[chris&barb]

so when they emerge from the egg sack they are already about 1 to 2MM?

 

[spongebob lover]

hey Barry i was just wondering if cultured clams are stronger when it comes to health than wild clams?

would it be better to pick a cultured one than a wild one?

 

[Barry N.]

was just wondering if cultured clams are stronger when it comes to health than wild clams

IMO, yes. Plus cultured ones are not collected like wild one so less changes of disease or infection like wild one due to poor collection.

 

[The Apprentice]

Great Questions Nikki and great answer's Barry What time frame should we look for in Vendors holding clams for Sale? 1 month? 2 weeks?

when selecting a specimen online, are there things we should be asking the vendor, since we are unable to see the clam in person?

How long have they had it and is it cultured or wild. What is the guarantee.

 

[NaH2O]

so when they emerge from the egg sack they are already about 1 to 2MM?

chris&barb - I will defer to Barry, but I think they are planktonic after they hatch??

 

[bmtpfgh]

so when they emerge from the egg sack they are already about 1 to 2MM?

I've ask about pics of egg sacks in the past,but no one seems to have one.
I have had pyramids so tiny I could barely see them.I use some dentals tools and a magnifying glass to scape out the scutes on the Max's and Squammies.
The egg sack to which Barry was referring was probably laid by that infestation on the clam.

 

[Barry N.]

I will defer to Barry, but I think they are planktonic after they hatch

Agreed!

Can't speak for all vendors but I feel that the clams should be quarantined at least 7 days before shipping and wild ones longer. JMO.

 

[spongebob lover]

i just wanted to give this a little bump hehe

 

[Barry N.]

Working on something

 

[Barry N.]

Water Chemistry

Water chemistry plays an important role in health of Tridacnids. The water chemistry should be stable, with no large swings in your specific gravity or pH.
Here are some recommended environmental parameters:
1.Salinity 1.022 - 1.025

2. pH 8.0 - 8.4

3. Alkalinity 9.0 - 11.0 dKh

4. Calcium 400ppm+

Calcium and alkalinity (carbonate hardness) are the building blocks of Tridacnid shells and should be measured on a regular basis and maintained at the levels listed above. The growth of a juvenile clam is readily evident on the upper margin of the shell, and is a good indicator of the health of the clam. Poor growth of clams is a good indication that something is wrong in the system, and in most cases caused by a lack of available calcium or carbonates.

Calcium is not the only element that is needed by clams for proper growth. Some hobbyists choose to add iodine supplement to their clam tanks because the believe that iodine helps detoxify excessive oxygen radicals produced by symbiotic algae. If you plan on supplementing iodine, be sure to test the water on a regular basis to avoid overdosing which may lead to nuisance algae and other potential problems within the aquarium. Many aquarists believe that enough iodine is added inadvertently through feeding and water changes since iodine is present in both good quality salt mix and in most aquarium foods.

Many other trace elements are important to clam health, but trace element solutions are easily overdosed. Most trace elements can be safely and easily maintained through regular partial water changes. I strongly believe that doing small water changes on a frequent basis is better than larger water changes on a less frequent basis since trace elements will be added more often. Partial water changes have the added benefit of reducing pollutants.

 

[NaH2O]

Barry - other than slowed growth, what other signs do clams show you when things are "out of whack"?

 

[Barry N.]

other signs do clams show you when things are "out of whack"?

Slow growth like you said as well as lost of some color, slow movement or reaction and mantles will not extend like they normally will do.

PS How was MACNA? Did you and Mike stay out of trouble?

 

[NaH2O]

PS How was MACNA? Did you and Mike stay out of trouble?

Ahhh - Barry, we missed you! I think Gene had an extra drink on your behalf . We tried desperately to stay out of trouble.....but you know how that goes . Maybe I'll take the trip to your side of the country for the Western conference.

 

[Barry N.]

Lighting

When considering your purchase of clams, keep in mind that some Tridacnids require more intense lighting than others. A good rule of thumb is the more intense color the more intense lighting is required. Bulb temperatures of 6,500K-10,000K are ideal, and will provide the spectrum the clams need for growth, and will help maintain optimum coloration in the animals. Tridacnids with brown mantle surface require less lighting, so PC or VHO would be a good selection. With that being said, they can also adapt to stronger lighting if acclimated to the higher wattage lamps.