Two part additive

[randythereefer]

Currently I mix 5 parts vinegar with 1 part balls pickleing lime to create a two part addative that I dose every night. Vinegar seems to work good but I wonder if I could use some other kind of acid like Muric instead.

Thanks,


Randy

 

[DonW]

Are you trying to make it more potent? If so your only going to get so much out of the kalk. Vinegar does help the Balls to disolve a little better but not much. For a true diy two part mix 1 1/2 cups calcium chloride with one gallon RODI water for part one. Then mix 1 1/4 cups baking soda with one gallon RODI water. Dose in equal parts but not together. I forgot what the mix was for mg, I can look it up if your interested.

Don

 

[Curtswearing]

Here's the Vinegar and Kalk Recipe

Homemade Two Part Additives. This link discusses adding magnesium to the mix.

If you only need Magnesium, Here is the recipe.

 

[j.stagner]

Wow, I never really thought about looking up a homemade two-part recipe before. Guess I should have, but I guess I never expected one to come from such a reputable source. Wooohoooo! Gonna save me some money now, been buying one of the bigger name brands to date.

Thanx!

 

[Angelscrx]

Ok newbie question, Is this kalk wasser (sp?) or a calcium additive or a buffer of some sort? I am kind of confused, how are you dosing it? Thanks

 

[MikeS]

A two part additive is intended to provide "balanced" amounts of calcium and bicarbonate alkalinity into the tank. The method he mentioned in the first post is similar to the vinager boosted kalk I use in my tank, a mixture that provides the tank with both calcium and bicarbonates.

The link to Randy's article is for a true two part additive, where they are dosed seperately...


MikeS

 

[Angelscrx]

Oh ok, Like I do with my calcium and buffer but instead of using measuring cups and adding myself daily, you are using a dosing system.

 

[MikeS]

Yes, my "dosing system" is pretty low tech....A 1 gallon rubbermaid container with an airline and plastic needle valve. When using kalkwasser it is imprtant to add it very slowly to avoid a rapid increase in pH, I drip mine into the tank at night.

MikeS

 

[vjvl51]

Mike, I'm not sure about the dripping part "to avoid a rapid increase in pH". I mix up gallon batches of kalk water and use a syphon (air hose) to move it into my sump as required. Often, the water has dropped an inch or so and I am adding over half a gallon fairly rapidly until the level in the sump and the level in my gallon jug are equal. I measured no change in pH (using Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit).

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/rhf/feature/index.htm - As Randy says in this article "These include the immediate addition of limewater or a slurry of lime solids in water. This method works fine for additions of less than 0.2 milliequivalents of alkalinity per liter of aquarium water (0.2 meq/L), but at higher additions, the pH rises too much (about 0.66 pH units on the addition of 0.5 meq/L of alkalinity via limewater, the equivalent of 1.2% of the aquarium volume in saturated limewater)." even a slurry is OK as long as it is in small amounts. I have read of one reefer, not wanting to bother with kalkwater drip, etc that makes a 2? tablespoon slurry and adds it daily to their 90? tank.

Not for everyone, I agree but food for thought.

Vickie

 

[DonW]

Vicky,

The problem is lack of stability and kalk solids in the display. I'm sure corals are not very fond of kalk solids. The idea is to dose properly to keep ph,alk and ca constant.

Don

 

[vjvl51]

Don, the methods I mentioned and the one I use is the same as used and recommended by Randy Holmes-Farley. In all cases the kalk powder is dissolved into water so there is no "kalk solids" to bother the corals. You will notice the slurry method is OK only for small amounts so the pH is not affected. I agree that dripping is the method usually used but my post was just to let people know that other methods are just as effective for those that don't want to drip.

Vickie

 

[MikeS]

I don't think it is so much a matter of the actual method used to dose, but rather the total amount and how quickly it is added. I drip because it is easy and IMO reasonably safe...but there are other methods. Key being, don't add too much too quickly.

On the solids...I use Mrs Wages, which is less "pure" than most commercial mixes. The outlet to my doser is mounted about 1/2 inch or so above the bottom of the container. I always let the kalk settle for at least 4 hours, usually longer, before dripping. The kalk contains metals and other undesireables...you can see all kinds of little black specks in the leftover mix at the bottom...don't want that stuff in my tank...

I'd say pouring an unsettled kalk slurry into the tank is not a very good idea...

MikeS

 

[Curtswearing]

I clearly don't have strong opinons on this issue one way nor the other. LOL

Polution-filled slurry method.

 

[vjvl51]

On reading the responses and re-reading my post, I may have mislead some of you. I am NOT using the slurry method but a modified garbage can method. I will be going to the garbage can method as soon as we find time to plumb it in.

I agree that if you are using pickling lime (with known contaminates) the slurry method probably is not recommended. I use the Two Fishes kalk powder and find very little sediment in the bottom of my gallon jug. What kalk powder the other reefer uses for the slurry method, I don't know.

My point is that a slow drip is NOT necessary - other methods work. The slurry method is not a slow drip. Pumping from a garbage can to replace evaporated water is not a slow drip. You just have to ensure that the amount added (however you wish to add it) is not going to change your pH but there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with adding the kalk quicker.

Vickie

 

[MikeS]

You just have to ensure that the amount added (however you wish to add it) is not going to change your pH

That's the real trick...

But I'm hearing you, Vickie... .
As long as you are not adding too much too quickly, the mechanical method is not as important. And I'd agree that as long as the total amount added is reasonably small compared to the total water volume of the tank, you are not as likely to have problems. Where the trouble lies is in adding a large volume very quickly.

I choose to drip just as much for my piece of mind as anything...I'm adding a pre-set amount very slowly, so I don't tend to worry as much about pH.

MikeS

 

[RockyHeap]

or why take the chances of totally buggering up your system and "pickling" everything........when you can just go out and buy some ESV Bi-ionic 2 part mix at only $25-30 for 2 gallons worth.

When I look at the thousands I have into my reef, I don't need to go cheap on the only additive I truly DO add.......

 

[Angelscrx]

or why take the chances of totally buggering up your system and "pickling" everything........when you can just go out and buy some ESV Bi-ionic 2 part mix at only $25-30 for 2 gallons worth.

When I look at the thousands I have into my reef, I don't need to go cheap on the only additive I truly DO add.......

That is what I use the B-Ionic two part additive. Works good for me.

Question theough what is the highest calcium level you want to have in your tank? I have mine at 450 which what I always see recommended but my corralline and Halemida don't seem to be growing as fast as when I had the 29 gallon set up without the Halemida. The fragged Acro (It think that's what it is got it free from a FS in AR). Hasn't shown much growth in the year that I have had it. Not like some folks that I see showing timelines.