water for 1st fill
- Thread starter Beckie
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My RO unit makes about 1 gal/hr.
So, you will want a number of buckets, and/or a good quality trash can.
I prefer to use 6-gallon buckets (with 5 gallons of water, so they don't slosh out when I am carrying them) because my RO-unit is in the basement and the tank is on the first floor.
If you can't get buckets for a good price from your lfs, try a brewer's supply.
By the way - with that size tank, you will want your own RO unit. You will evaporate at least a gallon/day.
So, you will want a number of buckets, and/or a good quality trash can.
I prefer to use 6-gallon buckets (with 5 gallons of water, so they don't slosh out when I am carrying them) because my RO-unit is in the basement and the tank is on the first floor.
If you can't get buckets for a good price from your lfs, try a brewer's supply.
By the way - with that size tank, you will want your own RO unit. You will evaporate at least a gallon/day.
Thanks Don
Do you mix your salt in each bucket or ?
What type of R/O unit do you use. Is it hooked up to sink or permemant plumb in. As you can tell I'm new to all of this. I got a big tank not only more to look at but easier for a newbie, sump with refuge and thought a skimmer in a few mnths.
Beckie
Do you mix your salt in each bucket or ?
What type of R/O unit do you use. Is it hooked up to sink or permemant plumb in. As you can tell I'm new to all of this. I got a big tank not only more to look at but easier for a newbie, sump with refuge and thought a skimmer in a few mnths.
Beckie
I have a laundry sink in the basement, and I attached a Y-fitting to the spout. Then I connected the RO unit unit to one branch of the Y. It is connected all the time, and I use that faucet for the RO unit more often than anything else.
For your first filling, you can add RO water to the tank, and then when it is close to full, start adding salt mixture (with a powerhead for mixing, of course)
Then I would mix the remaining water by the bucket.
By the way - I would start the skimmer the first day you put in live rock.
For your first filling, you can add RO water to the tank, and then when it is close to full, start adding salt mixture (with a powerhead for mixing, of course)
Then I would mix the remaining water by the bucket.
By the way - I would start the skimmer the first day you put in live rock.
gas4544
Montipora Keeper
I have a 5-stage RO/DI filter that produces about five gallons per hour. I purchased a fitting that allows me to tap a John Guest valve into the cold water supply to my bathroom sink. It was very easy to install the fitting and the valve.
When I am not filtering water, I just close the valve. When I need to filter water, I place the water filter in the tub with a five-gallon water jug. I then attach the supply line to the filter to the John Guest valve. To start water flow to the filter, I just open the valve. When I am done filtering water, I close the valve, disconnect the water filter supply line, and store the filter in the extra bedroom. Someday, I will have a real dedicated tankroom.
I have a small tank; only 30 gallons total volume, so I keep at least one of my two water jugs filled at all times. In the garage, I have a 14-gallon saltwater mixing tote inside of a larger tote with a hinged top. Inside the mixing tote I have a small heater and a Maxi-Jet powerhead running. I keep the mixing tote at least half full at all times and use the water for water changes. Its not fancy, but it works well.
Yes, you can mix your first tankful of water in the empty tank.
Gary
When I am not filtering water, I just close the valve. When I need to filter water, I place the water filter in the tub with a five-gallon water jug. I then attach the supply line to the filter to the John Guest valve. To start water flow to the filter, I just open the valve. When I am done filtering water, I close the valve, disconnect the water filter supply line, and store the filter in the extra bedroom. Someday, I will have a real dedicated tankroom.
I have a small tank; only 30 gallons total volume, so I keep at least one of my two water jugs filled at all times. In the garage, I have a 14-gallon saltwater mixing tote inside of a larger tote with a hinged top. Inside the mixing tote I have a small heater and a Maxi-Jet powerhead running. I keep the mixing tote at least half full at all times and use the water for water changes. Its not fancy, but it works well.
Yes, you can mix your first tankful of water in the empty tank.
Gary
I'd agree with filling the tank almost full of RO/DI water, then adding salt and a powerhead. Let it mix over night and then check salinity. From there, you can tell if you need to add more salt. Don't fill it all the way the first day though. This way, if you're too salty, you can fix it by filling the rest of the way with RO/DI water instead of saltwater. You also don't want it totally full because your sand and live rock will take up water capacity space.
Whats wrong with adding Tap water? Since he is starting new... would it not help it cycle? Having the things we try to export in established ofcourse...but isn't that what we want?
I mean people using Ro/Di to start a tank sounds like a waste of money if they buy the water. Since you are going to toss in a shrimp from the store to jump start the cycle...you are simply turning that pristine Ro/DI into bad water anyway ...bad as in having DOC's and Phosphates..amonia cycle going.
I mean people using Ro/Di to start a tank sounds like a waste of money if they buy the water. Since you are going to toss in a shrimp from the store to jump start the cycle...you are simply turning that pristine Ro/DI into bad water anyway ...bad as in having DOC's and Phosphates..amonia cycle going.
Tap water won't add the things we want to establish. It won't help the cycle at all either. Tap water will add nitrates, phosphates and maybe metals. Tap water won't add ammonia, which is what starts the cycle.
If tap water is used, the phosphates and nitrates could cause all kinds of problems that will be hard to overcome in the future.
Tossing in a dead shrimp to decompose is only one way of cycling....not the only. It's not the phosphates or nitrates that it introduces that we want. It's the ammonia from it decomposing.
No use adding more nitrates, phosphates or potentially dangerous metals by using tap water, if it can be avoided.
Oh and I believe the OP is a "she" not a "he." LOL
If tap water is used, the phosphates and nitrates could cause all kinds of problems that will be hard to overcome in the future.
Tossing in a dead shrimp to decompose is only one way of cycling....not the only. It's not the phosphates or nitrates that it introduces that we want. It's the ammonia from it decomposing.
No use adding more nitrates, phosphates or potentially dangerous metals by using tap water, if it can be avoided.
Oh and I believe the OP is a "she" not a "he." LOL
I guess I wasn't clear in the post ...i didnt proof read.
I understand Tap will introduce Phosphate and Nitrates...but that isn't so bad is it? I mean you want to get the algae bloom cycle going right? Toss in some flake food once to get the amonia cycle started also. or shrimp...
Since its just cycling why would having Nitrate and Phosphate be so detrimental later? After the initial cycle I would imagine most folks do a big water change anyway like 25% or greater....
I was just thinking since SHE =) was going to start it all up with Fuge... the Phos and Nitrates would feed the Chaeto anyway... and be eaten up by the algae blooms that happen on a cycle.
As for Metals i guess that depends on where you live ... I believe I am safe since I started two tanks with Tap.
I understand Tap will introduce Phosphate and Nitrates...but that isn't so bad is it? I mean you want to get the algae bloom cycle going right? Toss in some flake food once to get the amonia cycle started also. or shrimp...
Since its just cycling why would having Nitrate and Phosphate be so detrimental later? After the initial cycle I would imagine most folks do a big water change anyway like 25% or greater....
I was just thinking since SHE =) was going to start it all up with Fuge... the Phos and Nitrates would feed the Chaeto anyway... and be eaten up by the algae blooms that happen on a cycle.
As for Metals i guess that depends on where you live ... I believe I am safe since I started two tanks with Tap.
No, you don't want to start an algae cycle. Yes, unneeded phosphates and nitrates are a bad thing. After cycling, water changes are usually done, however, once you have nitrates and phosphates, you're already feeding the algae. Once the phosphates get absorbed in your live rock, live sand and such, water changes won't get rid of them. Nitrates and phosphates are natural fertilizers and will do nothing but feed algae. They won't help with a cycle at all. The whole idea of cycling your tank has to do with building up the biological filtration, which has nothing to do with algae. It's about your tanks ability to break down waste products from toxic levels to harmless levels. The more you can do to limit food for algae, the better IMO. Most of the maintenance we do with our tanks is to reduce nitrates via skimming and water changes. Why start out by adding them, when it's so easy to eliminate that part of the equation by using RO/DI water? It's a very low cost, considering all the other equipment we pay for, and the high cost in possible equipment and definite labor you'll spend later to remove nitrates and phosphates.
roscoe
Well-known member
I'm not advisng this but I did know some people when they 1st set-up their tank they did just used strait tap water and then just use some type of water conditioner to treat the water. They then let the tank cycle for a couple of months.
Roscoe, glad you aren't advising this...lol. Water conditioner will take care of Chlorine, Chloamine and trace metals. However, they'll do nothing for phosphates or nitrates. Any tank will normally tank 1-2 months to completely cycle.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that using conditioned tap water can't be done. I've done it before too. But only with my very first set up and this was before I had an RO/DI unit. I spent months battling nitrates and phosphates. This was only a 29 gallon tank and a crappy skimmer.
All I'm saying is that if you have the ability to start off on the right foot, even if it costs a little extra money, it'll really benefit you and your tank inhabitants in the long run.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that using conditioned tap water can't be done. I've done it before too. But only with my very first set up and this was before I had an RO/DI unit. I spent months battling nitrates and phosphates. This was only a 29 gallon tank and a crappy skimmer.
All I'm saying is that if you have the ability to start off on the right foot, even if it costs a little extra money, it'll really benefit you and your tank inhabitants in the long run.
roscoe
Well-known member
Totally understand you by starting off on the right foot Sid. I beleive the OP don't have a RO/DI at the moment that is why I stated my comments. OP if you can wait it out and get yourself a RO/DI unit it would be to your benefit. Very cheap peice of equipment compared to everything else in this hobby. We as people get to exited at the prospect of instant gratification of having a reef tank we tend to lose sight of the more important factor of being able to sustain our new found hobby. I have learned through out the years patience is your BEST friend in this hobby. So please OP before you start throwing your money away take a little more time to research KEY equipment that you need to purchase before setting up your tank. It will save you a butt load of cash.
Ok now I am confused. I was told when I started about two years ago. That if you throw a powerhead and salt mixture or without salt (5 gallon bucket)for couple of days to week all of the bad stuff blows off and to save my money on distilled water or premix. So I keep a 5 gallon of bucket of salt mixture and a bucket of regular water in the garage with powerheads and heaters so I always have water either salt or filler. I test my tank and water in buckets constantly. Other than if the tank water is old I dont have issues. Is this not good or am I asking for problems. I hav a 55 gallon hex with softies and hard coral and your standard fish. Clowns. coral beauty, flame and a foxface.
Doublenut, that procedure will rid the water of Chlorine, that's about it.
Wow lots of info. I am looking at ro/di units now. Not sure on all the kinds of hook-ups. Read about water pressure and such so a little confused on what size to get as well. I have to keep hubby o.k. with all this stuff. Lovely man is great with all my pets and hobbies but don't want to push it to hard... plumbing, water storage and such. LOL I use tap & conditioner for fresh tank. I am glad that I at least got the parts about nitriates and such. Looks like I avoided my 1st bullet.
roscoe
Well-known member
It does'nt matter what size to get. It all depends on how fast you want to produce fresh clean RO/DI water. Go on ebay and punch up reverse osmosis and you will have a bunch of choice to pick from. I myself personally have the Water General unit that produces up to 100GPD. There is also a sponser on here I beleive Filter Direct or Filter Guys something like that. They also have some great units to offer you. Just shop around 1st before buying one. It pays to do a little research.
roscoe
Well-known member
Oh yeah hooking it up is a breeze!! When you do order one just order the garden hose adapter and you can hook it up directly to your water spout or if close to your luandry room you can hook it up to your water line along with your washer. Those are a couple of ways to do it but there are other ways also but I've always done one or the other stated above.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Don't get a 100gpd unit, you'll get much more efficient water with a dual 75gpd unit, saves waste water. I make over 7 GPH easy & in the meantime Distilled water is great for starting out, you can get it very cheap.
