place the rock in a hyper (more than normal) salinity bath... that will draw him out, whatever it is, since the elevated salt level will irritate most inverts... fastest way and you wont harm anything you want to keep...
need a fish or 2 for my new 40B... tank is bare bottomed, high flow (5k+ gph), over skimmed (kent nautilus skimmer and a tunze 9002), and sps dominated... right now the only fish are 2 chromis
i need something that will enjoy the flow, swim actively, be colorful, and not outgrow the tank...
find a used pump... aroung here i see littlegiant and other similar pumps go for cheap all the time... i got a little giant 3mdq-x for 25 bucks one time :)
i just hung a lumenarc mini over my 40B which is 36x18 and im running an XM10K... i cant see fitting actinics very easliy in any configuration that doesnt block the halide and cause shadows... good luck with it and post pics of how you set it up when you build it
bulkheads are designed for the flange and gasket to go on the inside or wet side and the nut on the dry side... never use sealer, it will cause the bulkhead to leak eventually
it will depend on lots of things such as bulb brand, bulb color, bulb wattage, ballast, reflector, system nutrients, water movement, coral placement, coral species.... just to name a few
imo theres a reason certain fish are more popular in the aquarium trade.... most of the popular fish are generally hardy and easier to keep... from your posts it seems like you are fairly new to saltwater tanks, which is in no way a bash of any sort, but my advice to you in such a small tank...
salifert ca test uses 3 reagents also (1 powder and 2 liquid) the scale ans results adjust for the air volume added by the pipette also.... ime its very easy to use
most people replace cartriges and membranes at 1-2ppm.... if yours is 8ppm i would think about changing them out... how long they last depends on the incoming source water (how many ppm of tds it has) and how much water you use... someone who has 15ppm coming in and runs a nano tank may go years...
iirc, SCWD connects with 1/2" vinyl hose... best bet is to take one with you to the hardware store if you decide to go that route and pick the hose that fits best...
i would say with 2 lumenarc reflectors hung high enough you should be able to cover the tank just fine with 2x175w bulbs... youll be amazed at how much difference a good reflector makes in the spread... id say hanging the bulb ~10 to 12 inches off the water should work great if yu can do...
you could do that... i have done so before and it worked great... beware if you decide to use a SCWD though... anything over 700-800gph and youll tear it apart or at the very least it will switch very quickly... you could always use 2 of them with each one at different ends of the tank on a...
it all depends on what corals you plan to keep... i like a LOT of flow in my tanks but i keep stonies also... fwiw, my 40B that im getting ready to setup will have 2 modded maxi jet 1200s at ~1600gph each, 1 korallia 3 at 850gph, and a tunze nano stream 6025 which i plan to mod for over...
gfo= granular ferric oxide... it is sold under many brand names but they are all phosphate (p04) binding media... just go slow when you start using it as you can and will starve your corals of P (phosphorous- an essential building block of all life) long before you see a decline in algal...
if you want to push growth, consider iwasaki 6500k or xm 10000k bulbs on mag hqi (m80) ballast with a good reflector (lumenmax or similar), lots of random/chaotic water movement, and everything else you listed.... also, i would skip the pc actinics... imo, a frag tank is for pushing growth...
i use it in my life reef carx.... i have had good results from it but i have to run the ph a little low in the reactor for it to break down properly... i haventreally checked the p04 content but i dont have any algal problems either and i run gfo 24/7