400 gallons of saltwater running through my house.

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probably 250w heaters, they are the big ebo jagers, I have them set to come on at 76.5 but I have seen 74 in the tank before
My heaters turn on at 74. My tank runs 75-76 all day then in the summer up to 77, chiller turns on at 79.
 
Lets just say you need two 300w heaters...which obviously wouldnt be running all day. We are still looking at

2400w of lighting + 500w heaters = 2900w
vs
576w of lighting + 600w heaters = 1176w

I do believe either way your power bill should be significantly lower, am I correct in assuming so?
 
Lets just say you need two 300w heaters...which obviously wouldnt be running all day. We are still looking at

2400w of lighting + 500w heaters = 2900w
vs
576w of lighting + 600w heaters = 1176w

I do believe either way your power bill should be significantly lower, am I correct in assuming so?

here is something you aren't thinking about- if you need a heater when you are running MH's then you will need a ton of heat when you take away the MH's because of the heat they produce. MH's add a lot of heat to your system, if you take that heat away you'll have to heat the water another way......

real world w/ my tank. when i put my sump, frag tank and fuge down in the crawl space. i went from no heaters ever and usually at least one fan running to having 1200W of heaters that ran constantly. in addition i had 600W of heaters that ran as needed.
 
Lets just say you need two 300w heaters...which obviously wouldnt be running all day. We are still looking at

2400w of lighting + 500w heaters = 2900w
vs
576w of lighting + 600w heaters = 1176w

I do believe either way your power bill should be significantly lower, am I correct in assuming so?

I have no doubt that you are correct.... but I cannot just leap into a change, not when they are still basically unproven in large systems. I am just not willing to risk, say 1500 to 3000 dollars worth of coral to find out. Call me cautious.
 
I agree with you 100%, I am just lucky to start a new build so I can take the leap into LED's and go from there.
 
Sorry to jump in here kinda late in the discussion. I have been doing (more) reading on what plants and zoanthella need light wise to function. Somenting that has become aparent to me is there is so much clouding of the subject of what exactly these lights are doing/producing when people start talking about light intensity, lumerns, PAR, PUR, color, 10K, 20K and all that jazz. Nobody uses a standard nomenclature to define what they are talking aboout with their light offering in the LED field, so when you read the manufacturers info, you only get part of the story. Everybody gives you part of the story, usually a different part. It is so frustrating! I finally jumped into LEDs with 3 of the Aquatic Life 24" 10,000K/460nm lights (15-10K & 15-blue LEDs/24" fixture) over my refugium. I do not like the lack of light in the 750-760nm range, but...what the heck. From what I can see of the behavior of the corals and fish, nothing much has changed to them. I can't say on teh algae growth yet, too soon to have a comment in 1 week. Mr SW is funny though...our aquariums are like old grumpy men...they don't like change...HEY! I represent that remark! sorry for the spelling no spell check!
 
Look what the EcoTech Marine folks sent me :rockon:

I won second place (didn't think there was a second place) in an identification contest on EcoTech Marine's Facebook page and they hooked me up! Hopefully their coral glue works well. Anyone tried it before?





Ecotech Marine Coral Glue by devonmorton, on Flickr
 
I have used it...it is just like gel super glue, but a bit thicker. Nothing really special about it.
 
Wow! Hands down I like this EcoTech coral glue over the BSI IC-GEL! It cures a lot faster. I recommend you guys try it if you haven't.
 
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