50b Build Check list and advise!

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You know just as an example of what a little pump can do, I use to use a MJ-1200 with 1/2" hose to pump water from a 50g rubber-maid tub to my storage tank, almost 7 feet head and the darn thing did it every time for years, until I converted the pump to a mini skimmer pump. LOL
 
So if the mags are unreliable or are not ment to be a return pump what should I look into? Also.. I still haven't gotten the thing drilled or found anything on how to do the plumbing.. :( I guess I'm just going to have to take it super slow. lol
 
So if the mags are unreliable or are not ment to be a return pump what should I look into? Also.. I still haven't gotten the thing drilled or found anything on how to do the plumbing.. :( I guess I'm just going to have to take it super slow. lol

First you need to decide on a return pump before you do anything. An eheim is as close to perfect as it gets.
Just for the sake of asking. Are you familiar with how a overflow and return works.

Don
 
A flapper valve is like a back flow preventer. It lets water go through the return line heading up. But if the power shuts off the flapper valve closes and prevent water from syphoning back into the sump from your nozzles. It works flawlessly in my setup. I've tested it like 15 times now and works every time. You can see the plastic flap inside that closes when the water tries to go down instead of up.

<<<---------Water flows this way---------------
216kp78DsnL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
It is really easy to drill the tank. The hardest part is starting the hole. And as far as a return pump. Anything that is 300-500gph would work fine. My buddy gave me a quiet one pump and it works great.
 
First you need to decide on a return pump before you do anything. An eheim is as close to perfect as it gets.
Just for the sake of asking. Are you familiar with how a overflow and return works.

Don

Not at all :(
 
The link helps quite a bit with the understanding, now I just need to find something to mimic and also to see if I can make like a 29g with a small refugium added. I'm googling peoples builds but not many are to specific. I've called a few places today to find out about drilling and most won't do it with a guarantee and also want about 50$ for two holes.
 
A flapper valve is like a back flow preventer. It lets water go through the return line heading up. But if the power shuts off the flapper valve closes and prevent water from syphoning back into the sump from your nozzles. It works flawlessly in my setup. I've tested it like 15 times now and works every time. You can see the plastic flap inside that closes when the water tries to go down instead of up.

<<<---------Water flows this way---------------
216kp78DsnL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Its a check valve.:lol: Its a disaster waiting to happen.:) They are a ok for water change shut downs when your standing right there, but you need a back flow space left in the the sump. This is nothing new check valves have been failing on reef systems for years.

Don
 
Not at all :(

Ok thats cool we all had to start somewhere. What I'd suggest first, nobody is going to warranty a drill job. If it breaks even at a glass shop they will tell you your out of luck. Someone suggested a kit from glass holes, that probably the best way to go. They are way overpriced for the overflows but to save money you would have to make your own. There are quite a few people that live close to you here that can drill you tank. I'm down in Tacoma and would do it for you if you bring me a bit, mine is shot.
Before buying the kit, check with the tank manufacturer and make darn good and sure the tank is NOT tempered. Get this stuff done then you can move to the next step.

Don
 
Ok thats cool we all had to start somewhere. What I'd suggest first, nobody is going to warranty a drill job. If it breaks even at a glass shop they will tell you your out of luck. Someone suggested a kit from glass holes, that probably the best way to go. They are way overpriced for the overflows but to save money you would have to make your own. There are quite a few people that live close to you here that can drill you tank. I'm down in Tacoma and would do it for you if you bring me a bit, mine is shot.
Before buying the kit, check with the tank manufacturer and make darn good and sure the tank is NOT tempered. Get this stuff done then you can move to the next step.

Don
I may have to take you up on that offer! and See if I can borrow a truck to get it out there.. once I find out if I want the 700gph or the 1500gph.
 
I may have to take you up on that offer! and See if I can borrow a truck to get it out there.. once I find out if I want the 700gph or the 1500gph.

You in no way need 1500gph flowing through a 20g sump.

Don
 
for sure, I was thinking maybe making it a 29g I have a 29g laying round
 
I agree with the 700gph overflow (using the same one on my 40b).

I am running dual 1/2" for my return, but I have seen the 3/4" used also.

What would be the difference between 1 and two? Is that two sets of pipe coming from the return.. or split or whatever? And more of a spread of return flow?
 
What would be the difference between 1 and two? Is that two sets of pipe coming from the return.. or split or whatever? And more of a spread of return flow?

I wanted 2 returns on my tank for a spread of the flow. And I liked the look of having the overflow centered with a return on each side. I originally went with the 1/2" because I already had some loc-line pieces I was going to reuse.

The return line is split with a y. Here's a picture:
 
I wanted 2 returns on my tank for a spread of the flow. And I liked the look of having the overflow centered with a return on each side. I originally went with the 1/2" because I already had some loc-line pieces I was going to reuse.

The return line is split with a y. Here's a picture:

That looks pretty nice :p may have to steal your idea. Is there a difference between the overflow in the middle or being in the corners?
 
If you are looking to get the proper display flow while still maintaining effectiveness of your sump, why not do a closed loop? Keeps you from having to compromise on one or the other and keeps the bulky look of powerheads out...
 

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