A 750g SPS system is born

[dgasmd]

On a serious note here, I see the unions in a couple of pics, but have you given any thought to eventually being able to do maintenance to the plumbing, (for build up of calcium deposits etc), or is this something you've even thought about/care to deal with?

Nick:

I kind of forgot about this part and did not consider it until late in the proyect. However, that is the reason I added a bunch of union in a lot of places. I can take out sections and do what I need with them. However, I can tell you that after 2 years with my previous 360g tank, when I took it down I was surprised to see that the only thing that was in the pipes was a very very thing layer of algae. No CaCO3 deposits. Hopefully that will be the case here for the next 10 years when I will upgrade to a 5000g tank (JUST KIDDING :badgrin: :badgrin: ).

VINA:

Thanks for the words man. I did consider the generator. I am buying this week a small unit that can power the return pump and maybe a couple of other things. However, that is temporary until next summer when I install the permanent unit. We are going to install a 15 KW propane generator that will be connected to the 500g propane tank we are currently installing underground. They are half ay done with that actually. It was mainly put in for the pool heater as houses in FL seldomly come with gas lines. That generator should be able to take care of the entire tank including the 2 HP chiller and then some of the house too.

Travis:

Thanks for the words man. Turns out that I saw a post here by a guy named Ed Hann. He he also bought a valueflo pump and was disastified because of noise. He called sequence and they replaced what was faulty in it. I went ahead and contacted them too because my pumps were very noisy with a strong and loud humm and also increased my water temp by almost 10F. I spoke with the sequence guys and they tell me these pumps were no designed for indoor unse an that is why I am seeing the temp rise. They were designed for outdoor pond use. They tell me I should have bought the 1000 series pump, to which I replied that it was exactly what I wanted to get until the dealer talked me into these ones stating they were the same and were on sale. They offered me to exchanged both of the motors on mine for $50 each to make the pump a 1000 series 5800SEQ. I said OK and sent them. I should be getting them this week as they went out friday last week. On the other hand, I sent my AM3000 close to 4 weeks ago to get the seal replaced and it is still yet to make it back to me

 

[mojoreef]

I ahve never been one to get excited about the looks of the equipment so long as the functionality that was advertised is there

ROFL yea ok....Hmmmm sure thing


MIke

 

[Scooterman]

it is really nice to see such details for the most often over looked electrical systems. I have only one quim, and that is because it is just me making the comment. The RO/DI unit has the open potential to flood water directly onto your nice power strip. These things are maintained regular & well...... Water Happens, sorry I had to give you a mark for that, otherwise you get an A++!

 

[dgasmd]

Two points about that Scooty. First, the unit is off at all times unless I specificly turn it on to fill the top off container, which is the 55g drum you see in the corner in one of the pictures. In using this very same unit, I've never had a single drop leak after changing prefilters, etc. None of the lines leak either and I tested them under pressure by putting a valve at the end and let it sit for about 20 min. with the pressure booster pump, which bring the pressure up to about 95 PSI. Second, the goal is for the entire electrical panel where the ballasts are to be enclosed by a clear (plexiglass maybe) cover. That way if water splashed all over the place in the garage, a single drop would never make it there.

Can I get my A+++ now? LOL..........................

Mike:

Maybe I missed this, but are you trying to tell me something?? LOL.................

Alberto

 

[Scooterman]

That will work, hey I just can't give them A+++'s away you know!

 

[Maxx]

I can tell you that after 2 years with my previous 360g tank, when I took it down I was surprised to see that the only thing that was in the pipes was a very very thing layer of algae. No CaCO3 deposits.

Coll this was one o my major concerns with the way I did my closed loop. It will be difficult to clean out a portion of my closed loop, and I was curious how you had plans for that. Hearing that you only had a minor amount of calcium buildup makes me happy....Just for my own knowledge, what did you keep your calcium and alka linity levels at in your old tank. I'm assuming at NSW levels or only slightly higher...
Nick

 

[dgasmd]

Nick:

There was no calcium deposits at all in my previous pipes. Nothing. I ran my alk at 11 DKH and Ca at 430 consistantly. I dosed about 8-10g of kalk per day and ran the Ca reactor 24/7.

 

[Maxx]

Hmm.....
Good to hear. I'm debating running my Calcium and Alk a little lower than is usually accepted here in the states. I'm thinking 380-400 calcium and alk at 9-10

 

[dgasmd]

Well, finally the beast is alive Tonite I finished 95% of the wiring. Talk about tedious work. All I have to do now is wire the chiller to the outside, wire the actuated ball valves, and wire the new exhaust fan to the outside too. Those should be a cake walk. Overall, I am pretty happy with how clean and organized it all came out. I still have to clean out the entire garage as it looks like a tornado went through it.

I also turned the lights on. I have on 3 XM 10000K and 2 radiums. My impression of the radiums so far is pretty disappointing. They look pretty yellow. I realize this is just the new bulb and that they will burn in, so I will give it at least a couple of weeks to do that. The radiums looked as expected though, but they will definately need to be lowered as much as possible to get the most amount of juice down to 30" of depth. What I was very surprised by is how little blending there was among the bulbs. I pressume that as both burn in, they will shift more towards the white and will eventually burn in well. I guess I'll have to wait and see.

As happy and excited as I was that everything came out as planned with all the wiring, I was more excited about the fact that I did not electrocute myselft to death

 

[CarlaW]

Alberto, is it the XM's that you are disappointed with ? I do notice the yellow, but I'm thinking they will burn in. Super looking when everything clears up a bit, that could be another reason the bulbs look so yellow. Love the Radiums, I've got 6 on my 300!!

 

[dgasmd]

Yes, I meant to say the XM are disappoining.

 

[Maxx]

I also turned the lights on. I have on 3 XM 10000K and 2 radiums. My impression of the radiums so far is pretty disappointing. They look pretty yellow. I realize this is jsut the new bulb and that they will burn in, so I will give it at least a couple of weeks to do that. The radiums looked as expected though, but they will definately need to be lowered as much as possible to get the most amount of juice down to 30" of depth.

Yeah, I'm thinking you mean the XM's are yellow. I've been hearing about a bad batch of Xm's that was pretty yellow. I would try and contact the supplier of the bulbs immediately and at least give them a heads up thye might get returned. I'm sure they've had bulbs returned before, but I wonder if their return policy is only good for a short time period....
Getting their Alberto. Looking good!

Nick

 

[Maxx]

Yes, I meant to say the radiums ar disappoining.

Uhh oopppss......disregard my previous post. Thatsa what I get for trying to think for you....sorry. Why are you dissappointed in the Radiums?

Nick

 

[Katchupoy]

I know that this has been said so many times.... but did you check the nipple orientation of radiums? and what ballast is it again for radiums?

I noticed that it is the XM's that are yellow.... I mean too yelow for 10k.
You said 3XM and 2 radiums.... right?


Thanks.

 

[Scooterman]

Alberto, you make me proud to know someone that can actually afford to do what you did electrically. Very nice work. As far as lamps go, never judge a book by its cover. Wait a while and see...

 

[Elmo18]

Alberto, glad to see you started a thread for this awesome project. It looks like things are coming along very well so far. I do have a couple questions. Are you going to be using any GFCI's? Also, what was wrong with your CL pumps? Were they the Valueflo's? If so, were you able to get them replaced? You know I got the short end of the deal with my valuflo's. I'm still very happy with the 6000's that I replaced them with.

WELCOME to ReefFrontiers Travis!

Alberto, the tank is going well! I like that branching tonga rock.

- Elmo

 

[dgasmd]

I can't believe I said twice wrong.

It is the XM are disappoining. Radiums looks as they should. All nipples are pointed to the 12 O'Clock position as I have always used them. Is there any other orientation they should have for the XM??

 

[kevinpo]

Alberto,
I went back through all 6 pages and I didn't see any mention of the type of ballasts you are using or pictures of where you have them mounted.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[CarlaW]

Alberto,
Thanx, I thought I was goin crazy, or crazier.
As I said before, I think they will burn in tho.

 

[dgasmd]

Kevin:

You can see them in the 9th picture in the first page. They are Blueline electronic 400 watt ballasts. I went back to do a search about nipple positioning on XM bulbs and found that apparently, unlike mos tother bulbs, they have the best color when the nipple is oriented to the 3 or 9 O'Clock position instead of the traditional 12 O'Clock. I will switch them that new position and see what they look like when they come on.

You also reminded me that I have not really given a list of the equipment on the set up, although you can see most of it in the pictures.

Equipment

Lighitng:
*Two SE 400 watt Radiums
*Three SE 400 watt XM 10,000K
*Ballasts are electronic 400 watt Blueline ballasts
*Reflectors are Diamond LumenArc III

Return:
*Blueline 100 (Iwaki 100 equivalent) driving 2 penductors

Close loops:
*Spray bar under the rocks is via an AM3000
*Two Sequence 1000 (5800SEQ)
*Two Hayward Actuated Ball Valves
*Timer for the ball valves at 15 min. changes

Skimmer:
*Aerofoamer 848 (soon to be replaced by a Deltec AP1004)
*Iwaki 100 driving the beckett skimmer
*Ozotech 250 mg ozone generator feeding the skimmer


Reactors:
*GEO custom (8"Dx36"T) reverse flow Ca reactor with Little Giant 2MD pressure rated pump for circulation
*GEO custom (8"Dx24"T) kalk reactor with MJ1200 for recirculation
*GEO custom (6"Dx24"T) Carbon reactor
*GEO custom (6"Dx24"T) Phosphate removing media reactor

Chiller:
*Pacific Coast Import 2 HP unit

Heater:
*I know, this is almost a joke in S. FL. A 1000 watt titanium heater.

Water/top off:
*LiterMeter 2 pump for top off
*Aquarium Reef Systems 100 GPD RO/DI unit with dual DI chambers and booster pressure pump
*Natural Sea Water for water changes

Other:
*AM3000 to supply water for the Ca reactor, phosphate and carbon reactor, Deltec skimmer, and chiller.
*300 CFM exhaust fan to exchange air in the garage with the outside.
*2 4" fans to draw air from above the lights and blow into the garage

Monitors/Controllers:
*PinPoint pH meter for the tank
*PinPoint pH meter for the Ca reactor effluent
*PinPoint Salinity meter
*PinPoint ORP meter
*Ranco 2 Stage Temperature controller to controll the heater and the fan in the garage (equipment room).

Media/supplements:
*Schuran Ca reactor media
*TLF kalkwasser
*TLF Hydrocarbon
*TLF Phosban
*IO salt (rarely used)
*Natural Sea Water
*1 Micron prefilter cartrisge for RO/DI unit
*0.5 Micron Carbon prefilter for RO/DI unit
*100 gpd RO membrane
*Non-color changing DI resin