Aku's 48x48x20 irregular hexahedron take 2

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akunochi

Mr. Reckless
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
2,053
Location
puyallup
Alright let's try this again.....perhaps we can stay on topic this time and not drag personal conflicts into it. If someone has an issue with something I did technically and it is related to the build or reef keeping post up so we can all learn something. Also if there are any questions feel free to ask and I'll answer to the best of my ability. Ok so on to the build thread.

Concept: I wanted to expand my reef tank to accommodate the collection of corals I HAD accumulated over the last 6-8 months. The problem was the floor plan in my house doesn't have a good spot to place an in wall tank without some major work (moving furnace and the water heater.) So I decided that the best answer was to expand down the existing wall while keeping the depth the same. I also wanted to maximize swimming space and that meant removing the overflow box from inside the tank. Some things i liked from my last system were the large panel doors, the three sided viewing angle, and the shelf around the tank itself which is very handy when fragging and working in the tank. (holds my beer).

Execution: Okay so I decided on a 48x48 foot print. I then had to decide the height that I could obtain while remaining rimless. After talking to my glass hookup I learned half inch glass was on special and that all the polishing/grinding/beveling was included. So I went to a handy reef calculator for rimless tanks and started crunching the numbers to obtain at least the industry standard of 7.6rs for a rimless tank. I ended up with a height of 20" and a RS factor of 7.9 and a deflection of .013mm on the side panels. I then went with a water jet cut weir on the back panel that would feed a coast to coast calfo style overflow using a bean animal overflow system.

Cost comparison: I got several quote to have this tank built and all were in the 2500-3000 dollar range for just the tank. I ended up with my glass for just over 220$$.

Step one: So while I was waiting for the glass to be cut I decided to build the sump. The sump is an irregular shape being styled in an "L". The long legs are 36" and the short legs are 18" with a 18" depth. It is built with a skimmer section feeding into the return section and the return section plumbing feeding a refugium that overflows back into the return section.

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Part II: The Tank

So the glass was cut and ready for pick up.

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To give you an idea the bottom pane alone weighed 150lbs. Shown in the above pictures are all the panes, the panes for the overflow box, and the internal eurobrace.

Here is the external overflow box mocked up. It is 6" deep 6" tall and 36" long

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Okay so here is the tank construction. Adam and I rigged up a jig system that would hold the panels upright and allow them to be clamped square. RTV 103 was used for all the joints as it is very strong and has unique cross latching properties that help it bond more uniformly.

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The internal Euro brace was added as we went to help keep the panels from sliding at the bottom and ensure good tight joint between the panels and the braces.
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Here is the tank completed minus the overflow.
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Here the overflow box attached.
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As you can see above lots of nitrile gloves and rags were used up during the process. You have a very limited time to work before the RTV skins over so speed is important.
 
Part III: The Stand

Ok so here is the stand. It was constructed with 2x6's, 2x4's and 3/4" plywood. I used hanger brackets under the 2x6's to help support and transfer the load as suggested by Dave for safety. I decided to skin the stand in African Mahogany and trim it with Peruvian walnut. To finish I used watco oil in natural for the Mahogony and used Watco walnut oil to finish the trim. To top the stand off I had some Uba Tuba granite custom cut to wrap around the tank. I then trimmed the granite to the tank with a nice colonial routed piece of trim.

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Okay so here are some shots from a couple days ago. Since it will probably be brought up yes I lost a ton of SPS corals during the move despite my best efforts. I am moving on from the set back. The good news is that my Zoa's and LPS all seem to be doing well and the fish are loving it. Tomorrow I will take some shots of plumbing electrical and some more details on the break siphon etc.

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So bad ass I want that tank! saving the money and doing it yourself turned out a very nice system and projects are fun when there done
 
LOL I was trying to keep it simple for you! :blah:

Kickwrasse: Thanks it has been very rewarding although trying at time too. If you ever decide to build a tank let me know and I would love to help you.
 
Okay so here are some shots from a couple days ago. Since it will probably be brought up yes I lost a ton of SPS corals during the move despite my best efforts. I am moving on from the set back. The good news is that my Zoa's and LPS all seem to be doing well and the fish are loving it. Tomorrow I will take some shots of plumbing electrical and some more details on the break siphon etc.

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GOOD surface agitation
 
WOW, I cant see to put together a build thread on 3/4 of a page. LOL
Looks really good. Did you use any thing under the bottom pane of the tank to help flatten out the top of the stand?
How long did it take to make water to fill the new tank?
How many gallons?
Did youneed to add extra support to the floor?
 
Dave I used 1/2" polypropylene foam to absorb any differences in the stand and tank. Everything seems to be sitting nice.

It took me 2 days to get the water made. That included the water from the old tank (about 35%) and fresh water made up.

The tank is 199.5 gallons and the sump is about another 100.

So far no sagging in the floor. It is has 2 floor joists under it, but I plan to crawl under the house to double check in the next day or two just for piece of mind.
 
Sounds good! Right now the tank has 2 AI SoL Super blue modules over it and I will be adding 2 more once funds allow it. The skimmer is a SWC 160 Cone which will likely be getting upgraded to a SWC 300 cone as well.
 
Okay so some pictures. All the coral photos were taken under 95% AI Sol LED's on all 3 channels.

Tokyo Tart Acan

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Okay so let's get back to the build a little.

So I designed an electrical control panel which you have all seen previously. It features the display module, DJ 8 strip, and 4 Vortech controllers.
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On the back side I have mounted the EB8, APEX brain module, and the wireless web adapter for the Apex.
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For the return I used a Reeflo Dart dialed back. The reason for such a large pump is due to a high head loss in my plumbing. Because I had both returns drilled into the bottom pane of the tank I had to address the issue of back siphon.

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The Dart "T's" off and feeds the refugium via a 1" pipe to create flow and help transfer pods and such back to the DT.
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The return pipe then runs to the back of the tank, above the water line turns 180* and returns back under the stand where it is reduced to 3/4" and feed to return bulkheads.
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As seen above to John guest fittings were used and the lines are plumbed back into the overflow full siphon pipe. Once the overflow begins sucking air this air is transferred into the return line and breaks the siphon. I lose less than 2 gallons in back siphon with this method. Sorry for the messy appearance but the hole for the larger line was very large and has a lot of pressure behind it. I used the underwater epoxy sticks to seal it.

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The overflow itself is a bean animal design

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Here are a couple sump shots showing the float switches and probes

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So far every thing has looked top notch. BUT The top of that siphon pipe looks like a seagull was setting up there and got a bad case of the sceamin memes after eating a box of blue crayons. Please can you clean that up..LOL
 

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