Are you upgrading your MH soon?

[Katchupoy]

Are you or upgrading your light setup?
Can't decide if its gonna be 250 or 400 watts?
HQI, Standard or Electronic?
6.5K, 10K, 14K or 20K ?



Well if you are thinking of going 400... Then you should check this.
http://66.213.194.54/myreef/misc/400page.htm

If you are thinking of going 250... Then this is for you.
http://66.213.194.54/myreef/misc/250page.htm

And, If you are like me who cannot decide to go 250 or 400... Then this is for you.
http://66.213.194.54/myreef/misc/allpage.htm


Hope that these links will help you decide.



For further research. You can go here.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4939

And for bulb color. you can go here.
http://www.cnidarianreef.com/lamps.cfm
.


.

 

[Curtswearing]

Great links Cesar

 

[NaH2O]

Wow, Cesar! I'm going to spend some time looking at this. Cool

 

[CarlaW]

Wow, good links!!! Thanx

 

[wrassehole]

yup, thanks for the very useful info

 

[Katchupoy]

This is suppose to be the continuation of this one.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums...read.php?t=4939

But I guess I should create another thread for this.

Yes I agree. I can't believe that some of the 250's if configured properly can go side by side of 400's.

Note : Using HQI ballast on SE is not recommendable because it will shorten the life of the bulb. But this is purely theoretical/speculation.

Can someone attest to this? As in tried already this combo.


Imagine that a
250watt-XM10K/Standard ballast = Aqualine Bushke 400W-10K/PFO HQI


Very interesting...

 

[kevinpo]

Thanks Cesar! It looks like I need to find a source for those Avalon 400W DE bulbs. 229 PAR ought to cover it

Kevin

 

[Katchupoy]

Kevin, if you are buying and using it for yourself... http://diyreef.com/shop/ has it.
But if your selling it.... I dont know where to get wholesale.

 

[MarineDreamer]

Oh good Lord!!! I'm never going to get off the computer!!!

Thanks for the links Cesar!!!

Trevor

 

[Elmo18]

I would like to add a link to the list up top. Very helpful Cesar, thanks for those links.

If you are wondering what color your bulb will look without and with actinic supplementation, Joe Burger has tested most of them.

http://www.cnidarianreef.com/lamps.cfm


- Elmo

 

[Katchupoy]

Elmo. Its done.

 

[goby2004]

Awesome links Cesar!

Lighting is so subjective, I like bright lighting with a bluish tint, bulbs that burn consistently for a reasonable time and good for the corals, sps and lps. Currently run a 400 watt 6.5k ushio on a standard M59 ballast (too yellow) actinics help though. Corals like it...

What should I run if I was to start over?

2x250watt ushio 10k on standard ballast?

 

[Curtswearing]

Congrats Cesar!!!

You are in the library as well.

 

[Katchupoy]

Thank you Curt, but I dont think that it is worthy of one. Its just a repetition of Sanjay's info.

Goby, I did not know that there are 6.5K Ushio's. Also they said that 10K XM on 250 are bluer than 10K Ushio's

Also, if you want it more blue. Go to the links above (first post), and follow the instructions on "How to find it on Sanjay's site". Then look on the CCT data.

CCT - Correlated Color Temperature (CCT)
- Color temperature refers to the spectral distribution of light radiated from a black body as it is heated. A black body is an ideal object that absorbs all light incident upon it. This complete lack of reflectance implies that the apparent color of a black body in no way depends on the light that falls on it; a black body gets its apparent color only from the light that it radiates. This visible light radiated by a black body changes from red to blue to white as the temperature of the object increases. The color temperature of the light emitted is expressed as a temperature on the Kelvin scale, and corresponds to the temperature of the black body at which the light is emitted. This is known as the black body model.

 

[jlehigh]

can anyone give me the conversion from PPFD to PAR???

 

[Katchupoy]

Jlehigh,

To convert Sanjay's PAR/PPFD numbers to JBNY's numbers divide his by 0.197531

Reference from this link...
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showt...7&perpage=25&highlight=CORALVUE&pagenumber=50

(Scroll down)

Also, all of sanjays work are based on an 18" distance between the bulb and the sensor and no reflector. Im not sure about JBNY's, I need to dig that up.



Cesar

 

[jlehigh]

Thanks Cesar, I appreciate it

 

[Stircrazy]

Note : Using HQI ballast on SE is not recommendable because it will shorten the life of the bulb. But this is purely theoretical/speculation.

Can someone attest to this? As in tried already this combo.

I have been running my SE's on HQI ballasts for 3 years now. no life shorting at all, In fact it should increase the life of the bulb. the 250 HQI doesn't really overdrive the bulb it applies the power (voltage and current) in a different combination than a north American ballast, and most 250 watt SE bulbs we use are actually European specs which means you are running them properly on a HQI ballast. Also because it is a pulse start ballast also it is easier on the bulbs during start up. this is the reason for the increased output and from what I have seen, longer life. I change mine once a year and the output has only dropped off about 15% over that year. (tested 3 times now) Also doing side by side tests the AB SE bulb puts out more PAR than the AB DE using the same ballast and home made reflector.

Steve

 

[Katchupoy]

Good addition Steve.

I have a friend there at BC that you might know... He's board name is PROPS... or Jessie.

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=52117&postcount=1

Thanks

 

[Stircrazy]

hey Cesar, Ya I know of him, he uses the same handle on out local board.

Steve