Can someone recommend plumbing hose type/diameter

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BobinCovington

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Covington, Washington
I have now purchased the Blueline HD40 (PanWorld 100PX Magnetic) pump with 3/4" fittings and want to plumb it under my house and to the garage located sump. I want to run about 400-500 gPH through the system. I will be using the lifereef overflow return.

What diameter and type of return and drain hose should I use. My first thought is to use 3/4" dia vinyl tube for the return to the tank and a larger drain line (1"?) back to the sump, but what works the best??

Any thoughts here?

thanks for the help.. :) Bob
 
Bob,

More info is needed maybe a diagram of how you intend to plumb the system. Are you just going through a wall or under a floor? What are the elevations and slopes. Any chance of mice or other critters getting to this plumbing under the house?

Don
 
I was thinking of running some 3-4" diameter PVC from the living room floor to the wall in the garage as a conduit for my flex lines. It should keep critters out and protect the house from a hole in the floor etc.

AS far as elevations...

From Sump in step down garage through the wall to crawlspace, up 12" running 18' along floor joists, turn 90 up through floor up to 5' height and into tank
 
I would just use pvc since your planning to upgrade the tank. 1.5" for the drain and 1" for the return.

Don
 
The pump says it has 3/4" connectors (I havent received it yet). So my plan is to mount the pump right outside of and next to the sump. I will plumb the intake through a bulkhead fitting and to the bottom of the return area of the sump with a strainer. And on the output side to the tank (3/4 PVC??, Vinyl? )is one better?

Should I use a check valve on the output line?
 
You have a fairly long run of pipe that will be difficult/inconvenient to replace later. So I would go with the previous recommendation of 1-1/2" drain and 1" return. Remember, pipes gradually get buildups on the inside, reducing the flow rate.

As far as rigid (PVC) or flexible (spaflex), I would run rigid for long, straight runs, just because it is cheaper. You can switch over to spaflex at each end, where you are doing bends, etc. to reduce the headloss associated with elbos.

At the pump, you can increase the size between the 3/4" pump output and the union/ball valve that you will have installed just past the pump.

As far as input for the pump goes, the larger the bulkhead in the sump feeding the pump, the better. This will reduce the water velocity (not volume, just velocity) going to the pump, reducing the amount of junk from the sump being sucked up and sent back to your tank.
 
I definitely recommend rigid PVC pipe over any flexible tubing. Although Spa Flex is worlds better than vinyl tubing, it's still prone to leaks like any other flex type. Done correctly glued Sch40 PVC will never leak. Just don't use threaded fittings (except at the pump), they can leak worse than flex hoses. Whatever you use it's a good idea to install plenty of unions just in case you need to repair or replace something. I agree with Don, use at least 1" or 1.5" pipe to cut down on head loss.

Clayton
 
I have never heard of spa flex leaking. The stuff I used was just as thick as rigid.
 
Well alot has to do with experience between installing the 2. A spa/pool plumber can probably rig it just as water tight as we can with rigid. If you go with spaflex, go and ask to have a chat with a plumber from a spa/pool company. Not the sales guy who will say he can answer your questions. But the plumber or builder. But I do agree, rigid for less experienced is easier to work with.
 
Sap Flex will cut noise from pumps from vibration, won't reduce flow like 45s and 90s, and can make some runs that rigid can't. There is a place for both in my opion, as well as for threaded parts. I will say SpaFlex can be a bugger to work with.
 

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